Shell on subfloor replacement questions

[rippie]

Will be prepping frame tomorrow with KBS (thank you to Robert Cross for the info on this). In the interest of trying to stay one step ahead mentally, I am looking for tips on getting the aft replacement plywood subfloor section between the shell and frame in one piece.

So three main concerns:
1)How to squeeze the ply in there? Can it be done all in one piece?
2)Battery box/sub floor attachment: The subfloor was not connected immediately to the aluminum battery box frame. There are no holes in the box lip, indicating no fasteners were used. But this lip seemed to be level with the top of the subfloor, so if the floor was meant to rest atop here, it would now pull down by the 5/8" thickness if covered. There is an even gap on all sides three sides between it and the ply. The only support were plywood "outriggers" on immediately on both sides of box as a secondary contact with screws through the subfloor, then longitudinally through these structures. This can't be factory, can it? See photo.
3)Also am thinking of installing a thin vinyl flooring above and/or below ply subfloor for extra waterproofing. Good idea, in any part, or no?

Thanks again.
RPE

[barts]

So three main concerns:
1)How to squeeze the ply in there? Can it be done all in one piece?

In my experience, no. But piecing the ply into place works fine so long as any joints have ample butt-blocks underneath and occur near frame members.

3)Also am thinking of installing a thin vinyl flooring above and/or below ply subfloor for extra waterproofing. Good idea, in any part, or no?

Vinyl above the plywood works fine... but don't put it underneath. If you get a leak.... no, when you get a leak, you want the plywood to dry out quickly. Sealing the bottom of the floor doesn't seem to help that process. For example, imagine a leaking seam that lets water into the wall... it runs down into the C channel, and puddles where all those screws hold the C channel down on the floor... you want the bottom of the plywood to evaporate moisture that seeps into the top of the wood.

Ventilation and airflow is the enemy of rot.

- Bart

[perryg114]

There is no way to do it with one piece unless you remove the steel hold down plate and then slide in the floor then buck rivet the hold down plate back on. I kept my hold down plate in and used three pieces of plywood. One for each corner and a center section. I welded some extra pieces of steel in there so each section would have its own support. I also put in extra outriggers to support the new floor sections. These were a simple truss made from 1x1 angle.







Here is a home made outrigger.



Perry

[rippie]

I ended up getting the KBS 3 step system for frame prep. I completed the 1st 2 parts today: 1. cleaning solution 2. Phosphorizing (?) agent. Tomorrow will be the frame coating x 2. I will then topcoating with por stirling because kbs only has black topcoat. In between I will be working on my subfloor template and cutting.
Thanks Bart. Good point. I may still attempt some drains to the belly like Perry used, but I'll see.
Perry, that back looks well-supported. Thanks for the pictures. I have been under the impression that I would be able to work the plywood in one piece. If I had known I might be splinting, I would have welded an extra perpendicular support centrally between last two crossmembers. I guess it's still an option, I may just go halfsies on the split.

As for my other questions:

The battery box. The more I have been thinking and looking at it, I think the lip is supposed to go over the subfloor on all sides (instead of just butting up against). Is this right?

Ply outriggers: I also am pretty sure the plywood outriggers (the rear on is seen in the original post) are PO ingenuity. But are metal outriggers supposed to be directly either side of the battery box or is the subfloor properly cut out under the box lip the proper support?

Thanks.

[Pams72]

We did it in one piece. I needed to replace the rear hold down plate, and have the rear three feet and two cross members replaced. Had one fabricated worked out. I did use a floor jack with a couple 2 x 4's to lift the rear a couple inches and the one piece just slid into place. here are some pictures, post # 63

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f420...d-98384-5.html

[Yellamo]

Great photos of your work! I am new to Airforums and recently acquired a '66 Overlander that appears to have many issues. It does have lots of floor rot and the rear cross member is totally rotted through. PO left rear acess panel off for quite sometime?! That floor area is thrashed. The belly pan rivets are missing and rusted out, both length wise and side to side. In addition on street side front and back of wheel well, two 6-8" rips in banana wrap(outriggers)? My guess is that the frame may be in rough shape. What is the best tool for cutting into belly pan and do I leave some of the banana wrap on to have something to reattach to when reassembling.? Also PO said that he had replaced the broken windows, OhOh? Anybody's advice on the condition of this vintage AS that I found under a huge oak tree on the backside of a NCal vineyard and last registered in Alaska in '85...Thanks Bryan O.

[Pams72]

Yellamo, My thoughts would be without seeing any pictures that you need to remove the belly pan and banana wraps, repair the frame and cross members, new subfloor. Probably need to get new axles too.
I never imagined I would have done all these last year when Pam bought our Safari. No rush for us we just keep on a little piece at a time. Some one said "its like eating a whale one bite at a time" how true.

[Yellamo]

Thanks for the follow up, advice and whale quote! We will have to "just do it"! Any suggestions on power tool to use to cut belly wrap. Such as drill w/ cut off discs? I plan on replacing the wrap. thanks agian Bryan O.

[rugjenkins]

You can cut the pan off but to replace the bellypan in the future you are going to have to
remove the rivets that hold it in place anyway, why do double the work? Your call, just a suggestion.