Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-29-2009, 10:00 PM   #61
Rivet Master
 
urbanfood's Avatar
 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Venice , California
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 672
truck, nice job. here a couple of things i learned on my project.

don't bother with the sandblasting, not necessary. i was going to do it to but then i looked into it and it seemed too expensive and messy so i tried my angle grinder and it worked great. just take the angle grinder with a wire wheel and that will get all of the scale off. then por 15 it. you can even rent a paint sprayer and por 15 it that way (that's what i did but a had a painter friend lend me his and it worked sweet and only took a couple of hours for the first coat and less than that for the second coat.

in terms of the ball jacks, you need to have the cross bracing in the exact spot where you want the jack located. keep in mind they are not levelers, only stabilizers. you can look up my thread and see some detailed pix of my ball jack installation. i needed to add cross members to mount the jacks to. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f411...oud-27533.html

keep up the good work!
__________________
david

*by asking the above question,
i verify that i have already used
the search feature to the best of my ability...
urbanfood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2009, 01:57 PM   #62
3 Rivet Member
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Harrah , Oklahoma
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 110
Images: 1
I mean this as a suggestion, and am qualifying this because I don't have anywhere that much work in my AS to qualify me as an 'expert'

but... (here it comes...)

Do you really want the bathroom door across from the food prep counter (sink and stove)? Kind of akward. Maybe put the fridge down there?
__________________
My Brain Project and Tech Notes
airbassador is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2009, 07:43 PM   #63
Rivet Master
 
truckasaurus's Avatar
 
1960 33' Custom
Athens , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,280
Images: 25
Hi guys, thanks for the tips. I don't quite see how the Bal jacks can be bolted in place on the chassis before the belly pan is fitted. Are you going to have the belly pan fitted around the jacks or will you tap the steel cross-members?

I thought I'd complete the BP then locate the chassis rails and cross-members on the belly skin then pilot drill holes and bolt the jacks in place with self tapping bolts, maybe some super fancy expanding bolts... I'd like the jacks to tear out if I drag one rather than mangle the frame.

I could probably skip the sand blasting but there are some areas that it's just not possible to get at with a wheel, plus I have a large amount of new steel surface area. Given that there's no way this project is going to come in at less than $30k before cabinets I'm still keen on doing some really solid prep work. (I also picked up several old tractor inner tubes for wrapping up brakes/ spindles etc).

I did manage to pick up the 30" metal brake today and paint in Red Deer Alberta, (Central Alberta Paints and Supplies). The sales guy was great and when I asked his opinion about buying 4 quarts or just a gallon and 4 empty quart pots he said he'd give me the empty pots for free. I thought that was a nice offer until he said I could have 4 quarts for the gallon price! So 4 quarts grey POR15 came in at $171 Canadian, total paint and prep liquids cost for the day was $290. I did think about spraying it on but I'm safer with a brush! (I sprayed my house last year and lets just say I wouldn't want to do it for a living).

I was sorely tempted to leave the painting to the sand blasting/ rig guys but in the end I wanted to know it was as good as it could get. I'm guessing POR15 would probably last longer on the tank supports where they'll be pelted with road debris. (Oil rigs being somewhat stationary). Worst case I'll apply undercoating to the support assembly.
__________________
1960 Sovereign 33' Pacific Railroad Custom
truckasaurus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2009, 07:52 PM   #64
Rivet Master
 
utee94's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
If you want to sandblast, then definitely do it. I wire-wheeled the heck out of mine, and it was satisfying to see all the old funk get knocked off the frame, but I think sandblasting would feel even more so.

POR-15 is remarkable stuff, solid and yet it seems to have just a tiny bit of "give" to the touch, like really really hard rubber. It goes on great, even with a brush, which is what I used. It will lie down and form a nice, smooth, solid coating.

As for the costs, well, it's only money. Thank you for helping to stimulate the global economy. Those of us who are performing major renovations are true Heroes to Society!

-Marcus
utee94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2009, 10:30 PM   #65
Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
 
Inland RV Center, In's Avatar
 
Corona , California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by truckasaurus View Post
Hi guys, thanks for the tips. I don't quite see how the Bal jacks can be bolted in place on the chassis before the belly pan is fitted. Are you going to have the belly pan fitted around the jacks or will you tap the steel cross-members?
Instructions come with the BAL jacks.

They install like a piece of cake, even after the underbelly is on. No bigee.

The BAL jacks would take about 1/2 hour, to install all 4.

Andy
Inland RV Center, In is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2009, 10:46 PM   #66
3 Rivet Member
 
1958 26' Overlander
Lander , Wyoming
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 113
Thumbs up

Hey truck. Great job so far. Your tanks cavities look just like what I have done on my 58 overlander. I think you'll be happy with that setup. I had my frame professionally sandblasted. It may not be needed but Glad I did. There are some steps just not worth trying to tackle if you don't already have the equipment. Just my opinion. I treated my flooring with a penetrating wood sealer I believe called PC petrifier, Then used West epoxy on top of that. I do not believe my floor has much chance of rotting anytime soon! After the epoxy coat the plywood actually looks so good I hate to cover it. Quality work always pays off. Keep it up. Ed
n2batr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2009, 11:16 PM   #67
3 Rivet Member
 
r&kweber's Avatar
 
1959 22' Flying Cloud
Currently Looking...
Seattle , Washington
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 172
Images: 3
If you have the cash to have someone else do the sandblasting, then by all means do it. My costs were fairly low: Harbor freight sandblaster @ $80 on sale, 400 lbs. blasting media @ $40. But oh, my aching back! All that sand doesn't get itself into the trash... and the dusty mess that's left over is quite a headache.

My Bal jacks came with self tapping screws. I welded some 1 1/2" angle on so I wouldn't have to drill into the frame. I'd advise prepping the mounts now if you can. I know you don't have the jacks yet.... Here's how I did mine:
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_6003.JPG
Views:	222
Size:	114.0 KB
ID:	79474  
__________________
Ryan and Katie Weber
r&kweber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2009, 10:29 AM   #68
Rivet Master
 
truckasaurus's Avatar
 
1960 33' Custom
Athens , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,280
Images: 25
I forgot to address the bathroom/ kitchen layout question; I'll try and move the integrated cooktop/ sink away from the bathroom door but there really isn't much leeway what with the wheel wells location.

Also I'm still on the fence with the floor sealer/ treatment and will do some more research. I need to verify compatibility with the final surfacing. I'd like the floor covering to be either cork, but just cork, no HDF or MDF backing. I have a supplier with cork variants that are just unbelievably cool even zebra cork, in fact he had reconstituted leather tiles too, they look fantastic but again feature water resistant HDF backing! My second choice would be a marmoleum or similar.

I tried to find some suitable plywood but nothing leaps out just yet. (Although one of my hardwood suppliers has some special grades of plywood in stock. He has what he said was aeronautical grade stuff that is Xray'd for voids and comes super thin (maybe 2 mm) and bendy! Maybe that'll come in handy for cabinets). Good exterior 3/4" should do for the floor (North american preferably) so far it looks like $60 a sheet against $109 for marine.

I really enjoy following your progress on your blogs and I can't wait to get some paint down and break out the new air tools!
__________________
1960 Sovereign 33' Pacific Railroad Custom
truckasaurus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2009, 09:16 PM   #69
3 Rivet Member
 
r&kweber's Avatar
 
1959 22' Flying Cloud
Currently Looking...
Seattle , Washington
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 172
Images: 3
There are many grades of marine plywood, and may pricepoints. Mine cost approx. $80 per sheet and required minimal treatment to seal it against water saturation. Standard ACX has many voids -especially in the 5/8" thickness. I am much happier with the marine ply I've used this on this trailer than the better grade of ACX I used on our last trailer.
__________________
Ryan and Katie Weber
r&kweber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2009, 09:58 PM   #70
2 Rivet Member
 
kevin barnes's Avatar
 
1968 26' Overlander
2002 16' Bambi
1954 22' Flying Cloud
Delta , BC
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 57
Images: 36
sealing epoxy

Quote:
Originally Posted by truckasaurus View Post
Plywood sealant question. Has anyone tried POR15 on plywood at all? Under my tanks I'll have 3/4" plywood and I was going to use West Epoxy but maybe POR15 would be good too, thoughts?
I got my sealing epoxy from Industrial Plastics and Paints, I see there is a outlet in Calgary. Also they sell Napier Removall cheaper than most if you have to do some stripping.
kevin barnes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2009, 03:34 PM   #71
Rivet Master
 
truckasaurus's Avatar
 
1960 33' Custom
Athens , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,280
Images: 25
Industrial plastics is now on my must do list, I see they also sell marine electronics including Marenco stuff; excellent.

Less positive news is that I just dropped the chassis off to the sandblasters, and it's more than 1 1/2 hrs work, and must be closer to 2 1/2 hrs. $500 Canadian gets it all to bare metal. If they don't have anything else coming in after they blast, I can do the marine clean and metal ready in their heated shop space which would be a bonus. It sounded like I can also use their spray guns if there's time so maybe it'll be a silver lining to the extra expense cloud.

Next time I'm doing it myself, no question. I just don't want to lose the time now I'm on a roll.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0072.jpg
Views:	154
Size:	327.8 KB
ID:	79652  
__________________
1960 Sovereign 33' Pacific Railroad Custom
truckasaurus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2009, 04:40 PM   #72
Rivet Master
 
truckasaurus's Avatar
 
1960 33' Custom
Athens , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,280
Images: 25
Has anyone tried the RemovAll 610 product on the fibreglass end caps?

I thought I might get started on preparing them soon. I need to patch a small crack on one of the inside corners. My plan is to strip them, conduct any repairs needed, prime and finish coat them. After installation I'll touch up or top coat again if needed.

RemovAll 610

I'm also looking at a product called Ayr-Foil A2A insulation by Resisto. It looks similar to the Reflectix but I can pick it up at a lower price. ($149 Canadian for 3/8" x 4' x 125' which should get me through most of the shell).

Ayr-Foil (Bubble products) - Hi-Performance Reflective, Radiant and Vapor Aluminium Foil Barrier Insulation
__________________
1960 Sovereign 33' Pacific Railroad Custom
truckasaurus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2009, 10:39 PM   #73
2 Rivet Member
 
kevin barnes's Avatar
 
1968 26' Overlander
2002 16' Bambi
1954 22' Flying Cloud
Delta , BC
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 57
Images: 36
I have used the RemovAll on the end caps and interior it worked great, it works best when sprayed on rather than brushed on.
kevin barnes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2009, 01:05 PM   #74
3 Rivet Member
 
r&kweber's Avatar
 
1959 22' Flying Cloud
Currently Looking...
Seattle , Washington
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 172
Images: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by truckasaurus View Post
Industrial plastics is now on my must do list, I see they also sell marine electronics including Marenco stuff; excellent.

Less positive news is that I just dropped the chassis off to the sandblasters, and it's more than 1 1/2 hrs work, and must be closer to 2 1/2 hrs. $500 Canadian gets it all to bare metal. If they don't have anything else coming in after they blast, I can do the marine clean and metal ready in their heated shop space which would be a bonus. It sounded like I can also use their spray guns if there's time so maybe it'll be a silver lining to the extra expense cloud.

Next time I'm doing it myself, no question. I just don't want to lose the time now I'm on a roll.
Marine Clean and Metal Ready are not needed after sandblasting. If everything has been sandblasted (including new steel), all that is required is blowing the sand dust off. I used a leaf blower. Wanted to be sure, so I called POR 15 up to double check.

Nice they're allowing you to spray in their shop. Remember, the steel must be above 50 degrees F when you apply the paint. Wear a respirator, that stuff will make you really sick if you breathe even a little bit of the fumes! (Don't ask me how I know).
__________________
Ryan and Katie Weber
r&kweber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2009, 02:20 PM   #75
Rivet Master
 
truckasaurus's Avatar
 
1960 33' Custom
Athens , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,280
Images: 25
I was all set to just spray the POR15 on as suggested but hit a snag. They had another job that needed to get in their shop so not enough time to get the two coats of paint on :-(

I ended up shooting it with the metal ready and dragging it home for pressure washing. Now it 's forecasted to shower on and off so until I see a whole day with rain I can't paint outdoors. I guess if I have to wait 2 or days I may have to do another coat of metal ready before painting but I hope not.

On the up side no stress cracks or anything showed up.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0075.jpg
Views:	155
Size:	365.7 KB
ID:	79818  
__________________
1960 Sovereign 33' Pacific Railroad Custom
truckasaurus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2009, 10:55 AM   #76
Rivet Master
 
hampstead38's Avatar
 
1967 26' Overlander
Upperco , Maryland
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,105
Blog Entries: 22
Keep up the good work!
hampstead38 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2009, 07:11 PM   #77
2 Rivet Member
 
1965 22' Safari
California , Kentucky
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 59
Truck,
I noticed you have new wheels with hubcap clips.Will they fit 1960's hubcaps? IF so where do I purchase same. RiverRat 1965 Safari
RiverRat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2009, 07:42 PM   #78
Rivet Master
 
truckasaurus's Avatar
 
1960 33' Custom
Athens , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,280
Images: 25
At last

So with a 40% chance of thunderstorms I decided it was a great day for painting. Two coats of POR15 marine grey, strip coat then two spray coats. It's still drying but no rain just yet. "fingers crossed".

I've got to say the bunny suit, respirator etc was essential. Rolling around in the dirt is bad enough without sniffing chemicals for hours on end. I didn't get much on me which was quite a surprise.

Anyhow I wanted to keep up the forum tradition of beverage referencing so here you go.

Oh and about the wheels, I'm using a couple of the wheels that came with the trailer just while I do the rebuild. I don't know what size hubcaps would fit them as I've already got aluminum rims to go on when Im ready. I do like the steelies with baby moons though.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0100.jpg
Views:	130
Size:	239.7 KB
ID:	79885  
__________________
1960 Sovereign 33' Pacific Railroad Custom
truckasaurus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2009, 07:51 PM   #79
Moderator
 
Kevin245's Avatar

 
Vintage Kin Owner
... , ...
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 10,671
Images: 9
Hold On...

Truck,

It looks as though you're working way too hard. Judging from the amount of beer in the bottle, it looks like your paint application to to beer consumptiuon ratio is out of whack.



Which, by the way is probably why you did not get much por on you during the process.

The work looks great by the way.

Kevin
Attached Images
 
__________________

"One of the best lessons I've learned is that you don't worry about criticism from people you wouldn't seek advice from."

William C. Swinney

Kevin245 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2009, 07:54 PM   #80
Rivet Master
 
utee94's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
Quote:
Originally Posted by truckasaurus View Post
So with a 40% chance of thunderstorms I decided it was a great day for painting. Two coats of POR15 marine grey, strip coat then two spray coats. It's still drying but no rain just yet. "fingers crossed".

I've got to say the bunny suit, respirator etc was essential. Rolling around in the dirt is bad enough without sniffing chemicals for hours on end. I didn't get much on me which was quite a surprise.

Anyhow I wanted to keep up the forum tradition of beverage referencing so here you go.

Oh and about the wheels, I'm using a couple of the wheels that came with the trailer just while I do the rebuild. I don't know what size hubcaps would fit them as I've already got aluminum rims to go on when Im ready. I do like the steelies with baby moons though.
Something about that photo looks oddly familiar...

Nice work. I really enjoyed POR-15ing my frame (yes, it's a verb). And like you, I didn't really get any of it on me. I feel like I must have done it wrong...

-Marcus
utee94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
factory new shell- 2007 Classic? boondockdad 2006 - 2010 Classic (all lengths) 18 09-04-2014 07:39 PM
How big a shell off has been done? tbrom Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 1 10-12-2006 09:45 AM
Shell on or off??? Bradjun1 Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 3 09-19-2006 11:19 PM
Shell Off vs Shell On Summary mbatm01 Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 82 01-09-2006 05:46 PM
Replacing the shell ?? William8979 Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 2 05-11-2005 08:22 AM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:28 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.