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utee94 · 04-24-2009, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by r&kweber

Sorry, did not mean to start a Ford/Chevy debate. I don't like those one bit. Lots of good frame paints out there, all terrific!!

Sure, totally agree-- but what I used is better than what you used.

Okay, now let's discuss polishing systems, and then the proper WD hitch!

truckasaurus · 04-24-2009, 09:26 PM

More welding, but just the afternoon....

Also I picked up the Jet tools.

It's hard to see but the frame shots show how the tank frames are coming together. Three sides are permanent and the last short piece will be bolted in place. There is some trimming to be done but they are going to be smooth looking soon. They drop down 5" from the frame which is 1" below the axle bar. There will be enough room for the tanks, insulation, and tank heaters. Steel was added to some cross-members, a couple were perforated with rust, one had no lip on the bottom and I added some to the cross members holding the tanks so I can attach the new belly pan securely on all sides.

I need to decide where to put the grey tank 1 1/2" outlet point. A vertical mount facing the rear would be sleek but going for a hole in the base would drain better. I have plenty of clearance based on a line from tire to bumper for either approach. Right now I think a hole in the bottom with a 90 on it would only drop down a total of maybe 2" so that seems a happy compromise.

I sorted out a mount for the safety chains; a 7/16" bolt hole just behind the coupler and have chosen spots to be reinforced for the Bal jacks. I'll use 3 1/2" x 8" plate on the main Frame rails to box in for the Bal jacks. I added the 12 bolts in the rails to fill the holes in the original chassis, it looks weirdly heavy duty with all that extra hardware.

I was trying to work out where to attach the propane bottle mounting plate but I need to see if I can find a sidewinding jack with the winding bit in front of the 2" column, then I can weld it on with plenty of room around the weight distribution mounts.

truckasaurus · 04-25-2009, 10:19 AM

Plywood sealant question. Has anyone tried POR15 on plywood at all? Under my tanks I'll have 3/4" plywood and I was going to use West Epoxy but maybe POR15 would be good too, thoughts?

pbearsailor · 04-25-2009, 10:45 AM

I've been using West System on the boat for years and years. Definitely going to use it on the new subfloor on mine. One of the penetrating epoxies might be even better, but I'm so used to West that it'll be my choice.

cheers,
steve

utee94 · 04-25-2009, 11:47 AM

Can't comment on POR over wood, not sure how that would turn out. I think it actually uses the metal in its bonding process, but I'm no chemist.

I'd stick with the epoxy. West System works well on boats, should be plenty good for a ravel trailer. And I believe it was Uwe who said there are other less expensive options than West System, and that his research showed they were pretty much the same manufacturer, just different labels go on them. I think the outfit he uses is out of Florida. You might try searching for his comments, or just PM him, he's always very helpful.

-Marcus

truckasaurus · 04-25-2009, 12:37 PM

Thanks Marcus I'll get searching. I might even tint the epoxy greyish.

truckasaurus · 04-25-2009, 01:42 PM

Change of plan, whilst reading Uwe's excellent posts I noticed his 30" metal brake and found one on sale $55 so I bought it and pick it up later in the week. So with a 1/2 sheet of utility grade Aluminum at $28 I can nix the $229 channel quoted last week of the list, make my own and get to keep a "free" tool.

truckasaurus · 04-27-2009, 10:36 PM

Minimal snow today allowed us to nearly finish up.

The tank frames are all in. One end is removable on each cavity, we attached a bracket inside and tapped it to accept the bolts you see. (must remember to add goop so they don't seize up in a few years).

Added angle iron under the propane mount in case I want to wiggle it around and re-position it sometime. Filled all the P/O holes for plumbing etc.

All that's left is to buy a leveling jack so I can see the best way to alter the chassis to accept them after the belly is on. Then some clean up and sandblasting.

Aage · 04-28-2009, 07:13 AM

Wow, that's looking great, Truck! You are making it better than new. I don't recall what battery storage you had, do you plan to make space for extra batteries as you re-assemble?

truckasaurus · 04-28-2009, 04:25 PM

Aage, thanks, I'm thoroughly enjoying the frame set up work. No fixed plan for the battery location yet, given their weight they are lore than likely going to end up inside just under the front window or very close to the axles. Vented through the floor if needed.

Having double checked the Airstream Bal jacks (online only) no strengthening of the chassis appears to be needed so that means all the welding is complete.

No progress shots today, I cut down trees instead, much less fun.

truckasaurus · 04-29-2009, 02:56 PM

I tried to buy the POR15 today but with no luck. Of the two stores I tried neither had enough; even at $64 a quart, gulp!

I did chat to the sandblaster and it looks like about $300 to sandblast and a further $200 to $300 to spray it up with their primers and paint. It seems tempting. The best stuff they have is called Endura. They primarily work on oil rigs so I imagine it's a reasonable product.

I'm sure POR15 is better but with me painting it on outside with a brush versus a pro spraying in a heated shop maybe it evens out a little. Plus it's cheaper and I won't be inhaling anything. What's the forums opinion?

I picked up 100 1/4" x 2' elevator bolts and about 50 self tapping floorboard screws along with washers and stuff.

I could only get Vulkem 116 locally (Western Canada) so I bought that and butyl tape. If I need to step up to 636 It's a 30 tube case as minimum order.

truckasaurus · 04-29-2009, 04:25 PM

For some reason I thought the rivet gun would be small like the air drill but it's not. In fact it's a pretty hefty lump of metal. (Aircraft Spruce stuff arrived today). Just under two weeks to Canada by post is great especially with no bogus UPS brokerage charges.

utee94 · 04-29-2009, 04:38 PM

Awesome, I really love riveting, there's something very solid and satisfying about it.

Your progress is looking good, keep up the great work.

utee94 · 04-29-2009, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

I could only get Vulkem 116 locally (Western Canada) so I bought that and butyl tape. If I need to step up to 636 It's a 30 tube case as minimum order.

Do you have any Fastenal stores near you? I know they have a decent presence in Canada, but not sure about your area. They should carry, or at least be able to order, the 636 for you, if you have one nearby.

Can't help on the POR-15, I ordered mine from VTS, but I know that shipping into Canada can be problematic. As far as the oil rig painters, I'd say if their stuff can hold up directly to those conditions, then it should hold up at least as well as POR-15.

-Marcus

truckasaurus · 04-29-2009, 05:33 PM

Thanks for the Fastenal tip, I'll check them out.

Shipping across the border is often tricky and stupidly expensive, I'm currently hunting a local source for the BAL stabilizers ($270 shipping seems crazy ( from Outofdoorsmart)). I think the trick is to only buy North American made products so there's no import duty and avoid UPS like the plague. The postal service seems great so far. Worst case I'll be in Seattle in July and California in September so I'll see what I can pick up then.

Not having an Airstream dealer in the province, which is huge, seems to make this project extra hard.

Jim & Susan · 04-29-2009, 06:26 PM

Truck, I bought my POR-15 from a local automotive paint store for about US$35 per quart. I'm pretty sure that you can get it from Vintagtrailersupply.com for a pretty good price. Same with the Vulkem. I bought some Vulkem from them for about US$7 per tube (buy plenty). I sandblasted my frame myself by renting a sandblaster and buying the sand locally. Seems like that cost about $200 total. I'll try to look it up. You might do best to have the POR and Vulkem deleverd to a US address and pick it up when you're down here. Just a couple of other ideas.

Keep up the good work. Following along with interest.

Jim

Jim & Susan · 04-29-2009, 06:49 PM

I just looked it up in my "Full Monte" thread. Sandblasting the frame myself was about $230. Tou can read about it here if you're interested: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f226...e-15132-9.html

Start at post 116.

Jim

Aage · 04-29-2009, 06:58 PM

How about:

Eagle's Nest POR-15
Located in Spruce Grove, AB
Call Jim @ (780) 717-3648 Fax: (780) 987-4668
Or try their website:

POR-15 ALBERTA

They're just near Deadmonton. Appears to be about a ½ hour drive for you.

truckasaurus · 04-29-2009, 07:29 PM

I really wanted to try sandblasting even though everyone told me it was great for a few minutes then it gets old, fast. I checked rental out and the machine was $145 a day then I'd need sand and protective clothing, subbing it out is $185 an hour for 1 1/2 hrs.

I'll check the Eagles's nest (I thought it was a bikers place, choppers etc) but with PORCanada asking $60 a quart plus shipping and Vintage at $45 US (~$56CAD) again plus shipping I'd be lucky to break even doing the work myself compared to the oil rig shop in town.

I don't want to sound like I'm subbing all the work out and in fact sometimes I'll pay a premium to do things myself but you've got to have a balance.

Jim & Susan · 04-29-2009, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

......I don't want to sound like I'm subbing all the work out and in fact sometimes I'll pay a premium to do things myself but you've got to have a balance.

Yes indeed. I've subbed out a few things on mine as well. It's just that I'm so cheap, my default is to DYI it! Your work looks great. Keep it up.

Jim