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Old 11-11-2010, 08:47 AM   #381
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Cant wait to see the door progress. I have two cracks (one on each side of the door frame) that need to be welded. My clients husband is an expert in welding aluminum so I am going to sub it out to him. Take LOTS of pics!!
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Old 11-11-2010, 08:53 AM   #382
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The shower pan I got has that same "styrofoam" base and I'm wondering whether I should keep it or not (?). It looks like you're planning on keeping it. I'm a worrier and am thinking it's going to "crush" over time and cause problems. Does it matter either way?

Great work, thanks for posting your project.
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Old 11-11-2010, 09:12 AM   #383
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I don't think the beaded foam would get crushed but that's a good point. Once I have the support frame in place I'd like to slip a couple of sealed bags of high density expanding foam in place to help shore it all up, much like you would with readymix concrete until a regular residential tub installation. Also I picked the Dometic Vacuflush 5048 toilet up from the UPS depot on Monday so I should get a good idea of how much room I have to play with.

I hope the door frame is crack free but I guess I'll find out later on today (it's 7 below right now and I don't want to get stuck to the door).
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Old 11-11-2010, 10:37 AM   #384
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I am in-visioning a vacuflush system in my 71 Sovereign ground up redo, but I have had some difficulty in figuring out exactly all the parts and pieces I will need. Can you post or e-mail me a list of all the parts of the system? I am interested in seeing yours together and hearing more about it.

Thank you and have a great day.
Chad
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Old 11-11-2010, 11:12 AM   #385
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Hi Chad, figuring it all out had me quite confused, so far I've just purchased the combined vacuum generator- vacuum tank - holding tank unit (10 HTS) and the toilet (Dometic 5048). Next I'll need a transfer pump (T-pump) to send the stuff from the holding tank out to the exit valve and all the piping (1 1/2"). There seem to be various models available some with built in transfer pumps etc and deciding what I wanted drove me near to insanity, I scored a great deal by buying the tank unit from a marine liquidator in the UK and getting it shipped to Canada, the toilet was another matter entirely; I will never buy anything from SeaCoastServices.com if I live to 200.

The 10 in the HTS name relates to capacity (gallons) so it's small but allegedly used about 1/4 of the water that a typical RV/ marine unit does so that should help, if not I'll route it to the grey tank and go combined black/ grey or just install a secondary black tank.

It all seems well made but I guess we'll see how it works out wen built in.
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Old 11-11-2010, 04:31 PM   #386
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so far

So far so good; I got the door de-skinned and checked for cracks, all good :-) There was quite a mess in the lower section of the insulation and some corrosion to clean up but generally not too bad. I need to order some door seal and lock retainers but I'll start with the new skins tomorrow.
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Old 11-11-2010, 08:09 PM   #387
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Still looking for 2010 finish up? Been following your progress. Outstanding work!
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Old 11-12-2010, 08:16 AM   #388
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Well I got the trailer rolling and sealed up again in 2010 but school and a new career got in the way somewhat so now I've set a deadline to stick to. We're going to take August off and head down to California. There's a ton of work still to do especially if we need to take her out for a test camp weekend or two! In fact I think there's about 30 weekends until summer.
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Old 11-12-2010, 04:50 PM   #389
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good so far

This afternoon I made a new exterior skin for the main door, I used .032" but if I'd had some .040" on hand that would probably be even better (stronger). It's sealed up but needs riveting (the rivets I removed felt like A's not AD's so I'll probably use them again especially as they squeeze easier by hand. I'll line the inside with eaves guard and insulation for a solid feel and may whip up new interior skins too.

I ordered some door seals from Vintage and snuck a Progressive Dynamics 4045 AC/DC distribution- converter unit in with the order whilst I was at it :-)
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Old 11-12-2010, 05:14 PM   #390
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Been working on my 77 since 2004 and only now is it road worthy. You've made
phenomenal progress.

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Old 11-21-2010, 03:32 PM   #391
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It's COLD

I must be insane. I brought the door inside to apply the gasket to the outer lip as it's 20 below outside now! The first attempt to get a better fit by pushing the door to fit then drilling and riveting was not so effective so I built a quick cradle on the bench and compressed the centre section about an inch with clamps then drilled and installed fasteners. This worked better, not 100% perfect I still have the inner seal to fit when it's warmer.

I bought some door latch pockets too but the deadbolt is too fat too fit in them which is a shame. Any how pics attached for that winter feeling..
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Old 11-21-2010, 05:39 PM   #392
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Truck, On mine I used an angle grinder to reduce the size/thickness of the deadbolt throw. You could make it the correct size to fit. Just a thought. Ed
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Old 11-24-2010, 06:59 PM   #393
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Power planning

The replacement Progressive Dynamics panel arrived today; the 1st one came in smashed up but VintageSupply came through great! But more interestingly a co-worker imports LED products and got some samples in for me to look at. Because I plan to use these strips under cabinets, in cabinets and in humid environments they seem just the ticket. Waterproof, super lightweight, very low power consumption, extremely high tech in appearance dimmable and they mount with 3M tape or tiny brackets. I chose the 1 meter length in bright white for my little test given that the lighting will always be indirect. I took the first shot in an otherwise dark room so I suspect that 4 of these bad boys would light up project Streamn like a, um, Roman candle if need be...
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Old 11-28-2010, 01:20 PM   #394
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I have read on the forums that the spray on foam will not hold up because of the bouncing down the road. The stuff will turn to mush with the bouncing and viberating that goes on.

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Old 11-28-2010, 03:13 PM   #395
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I haven't used any spray on foam for pretty much that reason and the exothermic property of some spray stuff too. To date I've used pink insulation board in the floor, pink fiberglass batts, and some foil double bubble foil. The eaves guard stuff is more like a bituminous adhesive sheet that seals itself up when pierced.

Today I got to work on some interior patches; ran a 120V line to the trailer; hooked up the test strip LED; ran a small heater (which got it nice and toasty fast) and rewired the umbilical area after installing a large patch panel to tidy up the front.

I used the tip from n2batr, thanks Ed, and sanded down the deadbolt to fit the vintagesupply door latch pockets and built a Lexan stand-off for the door latch pocket so the door is held more securely.

Not exactly the most exciting of tasks but now I'm ready to start the bathroom building extravaganza...
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Old 11-29-2010, 04:43 AM   #396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver 67 View Post
I have read on the forums that the spray on foam will not hold up because of the bouncing down the road. The stuff will turn to mush with the bouncing and viberating that goes on.
I'm not sure that's a problem these days. The newer foam remains flexible where the old stuff cured up and got hard. It would be great to know for sure.

When I put the solid exterior foam sheets under the Safari floor this coming spring, I intend to seal the edges to the frame using the spray foam. I guess time will tell, but who takes the time to take down the belly pan just to look?

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Old 12-04-2010, 04:23 AM   #397
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ICYNENE MD-R-200

This stuff is working great for me so far.
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:15 PM   #398
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Truck,
The LED's certainly appear bright. Do you know if the strips come in different lengths and are they available commercially? If so where?
Jim
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Old 12-05-2010, 07:54 AM   #399
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Very Nice!

This is a great thread, thanks for sharing your project. Now its time to steal some of your ideas!
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Old 12-05-2010, 09:14 AM   #400
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Jim, I bought this strip through a work colleague; James Rafferty; his company, StreamLine Customs has all kinds of crazy LED products. He brought some flexible waterproof LED strips for motorcycle and car use in to work one day and it just got me curious. As far as I can tell, if I can think of it he can get it, even to the extent of having them built with different connectors etc. James' number is 403 710 5484 or James@StreamlineCustoms.ca He's almost got me convinced to try the multicolor remote control units so I may ask to borrow one and see how it looks when I have some of the interior installed.
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