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Old 05-26-2010, 01:06 PM   #341
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I'm going to pick up some stainless pan head screws and switch them out with the stock items I'd used to install the fantastic fans, it seems like they will work better placing less stress on the plastic frames.
Truck, I used stainless oval head screws and they fit much better than the stock screws. I think the pan head screws might not fit as well in the countersunk screw holes of the fantastic fans.
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Old 05-30-2010, 05:13 PM   #342
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A bit of a delay

So I drove all the way to the trailer but 2 days of yucky weather... I got zip accomplished!
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Old 06-28-2010, 07:22 PM   #343
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I'm after some window refurbishment tips, maybe a link to a how-to-thread or something. I managed to get the lower frame of the double section front street window out as it doesn't have a gutter above it. I cleaned the frame up and then promptly trod on the glass pane that the GF had spent an hour cleaning! It looks like I need to take out a few rivets from each gutter to get the windows to slide out; is that correct?

I haven't calipered the glass yet but it looks like 3/32" (37 3/8" x 16 3/8" for the piece already smushed into pieces) and I'm assuming it's just plain window glass or has anyone tried something more exotic glass wise.

I'd really like to know what goes between the trailer attached frame extrusion and the glass itself, it looks like butyl but with fabric embedded in it but it was so old and crumbly it's hard to tell.
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Old 06-28-2010, 07:30 PM   #344
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Truck--

Frank Yensan (aka 62Overlander) of Frank's Trailer Works posted a pretty detailed primer on window replacement/repair for his 62 Overlander, which should also be applicable to the windows on your 61 I believe. You can find it at the link below, start with Windows 101, then read Windows 102, and finally Windows 103.

Frank's Trailer Works Blog: March 2009

Good luck!

-Marcus
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Old 06-30-2010, 07:47 PM   #345
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Franks description was excellent, now all I need is the glass and glazing tape. It looks like the 1/8" glass is the best option.
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:09 PM   #346
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Franks description was excellent, now all I need is the glass and glazing tape. It looks like the 1/8" glass is the best option.
Yes, Frank's primer was excellent. Thanks, Marcus, for providing the link again. And thank you frank for sharing your work on your blog.
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Old 07-01-2010, 03:57 AM   #347
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I use 1/8"regular glass. Some choose to use tempered. I would rather clean up 40 glass shards if breaks than 4000 if a piece of tempered shatters. The coolest thing about this era of window, is if it does break, the fix is very easy and inexpensive. It has been a while since I wrote that tutorial, so a few hints....
A)heat works well at getting the old butyl off the frames. Any stubborn butyl will be melted by lacquer thinner or MEK.
B)make sure the groove the rubber gasket goes into has no, none, zero debris in it. Dental tools come in handy. Often glass was replaced and some clod(yes clod, this was not needed and I have seen it a few times) used that 3M adhesive as extra holding. Make sure every bit is out or the outer seal will not seat properly.
C) The glass must be cut very exact. I have an old school glass shop that cuts it exactly to the size I order. Tolerances are critical. I order it 3/32" smaller than the total space within the frame where it sits. This give just a little space for the butyl to squeeze around the edge of the glass along each edge.
D) by the time you get to the last one, you will feel confident but the project will be done.
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Old 07-05-2010, 07:52 AM   #348
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man that is some awesome work you have done. Gives me a lot of ideas for doing my own. Looking forward to seeing more.
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Old 07-25-2010, 05:36 PM   #349
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We followed Franks tutorial with tips and completed one shiny new window refurbishment. The 3/8" butyl tape worked out great as we just trimmed it after installation :-)

I'm going to get all new glass as the original stuff just won't clean up, but it's got me thinking of how to tackle the fly screens.

I was going to clean them and get them re screened but as they're pretty corroded I thought I'll just get new ones. I'll check in with the local glass place but I was wondering if anyone had tried making them from a kit? (I'm also wondering about getting them in white but I might get flamed for heresy).

Anyhow it's good to make a little more progress especially as it didn't involve any polishing at all.
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Old 07-25-2010, 05:55 PM   #350
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you can remake them yourself. The identical aluminum extrusion for the frames is sold in 8 foot lengths at home depot. It cuts on a miter saw with a fine tooth blade. The hard part is finding the clips that go internally at the miters. The ones they sell are plastic and are butt ends not miters. The clips might be inside yours and could be reused. I found them at an Ace Hardware that makes screens and repairs them.
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Old 08-10-2010, 07:51 PM   #351
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The lovely girlfriend has done a great job on 4 windows already even though the glazing company cut all but ONE pane short by 5/8" and then remade them using 3/16", useless, 3rd time's a charm but they'll not be getting the screen order when the time comes.

Sooo, I'm building up a pile of materials ready for a full weekend on the 'stream and I have a quick question about grey tank vent materials. The damaged pipe (still in situ) looks like black ABS or similar but I'd like to relocate the roof outlet so to fabricate a new one what's best? It's got to be flexible and able to take a 90 elbow to make it through the roof. My grey tank will only have a 1 1/2" drain out so maybe I can get away with 1" or even 3/4" vent pipe? (I also used the original bird's mouth vent that was kindly sent to me to make a new duplicate so I don't have to worry about misaligned rivets and have some flexibility on the pipe/ roof exit point).
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Old 08-11-2010, 08:45 AM   #352
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Wow! Nicely done Truck! I have been reading the forums like a fiend lately. I am almost done with the gut. I plan on having it done by next week. I will brace it like so many others have done. Do you have any regrets or "next time I'll..." advice?
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Old 08-11-2010, 05:52 PM   #353
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Hmmn, advice...

I'd spring for a better grade of plywood flooring and I'd have all the window frames soda blasted before I start re-construction.

Next time will probably be a little trailer at the GF's request but I'd really like to go for a "special" as the big project. I'm thinking a full custom chassis with the floor no longer an integral part of the "semi-monocoque" construction, and it might sound ludicrous but I'd like to stretch an Ambassador to 34' but keep the early 60's look.

Plenty of plans.....
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Old 08-12-2010, 08:55 AM   #354
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Thanks for your reply. I have a few questions maybe you could answer. On the BP metal, did you use the 3003 H-14 or just 3003? What size sheets? What size rivits for the BP? Where did you get your riviter and shears? I have been reading this thread over and over. Thanks again for your detailed posts it helps for the psyc up!
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Old 08-12-2010, 05:09 PM   #355
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Lets see; I used 3003, utility grade which comes on a roll (coil) from anywhere that repairs semi trailers. IIRC it's about 8 feet something wide, i'd rather not have used it but really wanted the width for my BP master plan. I used large flange pop rivets and don't remember the size off hand but I'm sure I would have used a a #20 drill so just over 5/32" diameter. I bought my rivet gun from Aircraft Spruce but lately I use Yardstrore and Browntools. The shears came from a local hydraulic line supplier and are made by Jet. They weren't expensive but I'd suggest skipping them and the nibbler and just getting hand powered aviation snips instead.
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Old 08-13-2010, 08:47 AM   #356
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Why did you not like the snipper?
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Old 08-15-2010, 06:07 PM   #357
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I quite liked the shears but aviation snips will do the same job (tip snips will leave an even better cut) and offer better control.
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Old 08-15-2010, 06:21 PM   #358
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Plenty of progress

This weekend I took a day off work and got lots done; all interior rivet tails removed and 100 grommets installed. I got the Marinco 110V inlet installed along with the fresh and city water fills too; the city fill is horribly cheap and ugly looking so I'm already thinking about a substitute.

Saturday saw the street side windows re-installed and a new birds mouth vent mounted over an old sink vent for use with the grey tank. I also removed a patch on the roof at the tail and used a smaller version to maintain the compound curve better.

Today we took all the other windows out ready for refurbishment and hit a bit of a snag. Jalousie windows to be exact.

One of the brackets is missing a piece (snapped off) and they don't seem to be something I can buy so I'll have to try and make one; also to get the things off I had to drill out the hollow steel rivets. If anyone has done this before any tips would be great as the only tool I could find to re-install hollow rivets must be over 100 years old.
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Old 08-15-2010, 06:53 PM   #359
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you can buy the whole thing... I think Blain is the company.
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Old 08-16-2010, 07:02 PM   #360
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Truck, it's coming along nicely!
Frank - you da Man! Thanks for the window link!
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