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StreamRoller · 12-31-2016, 06:55 PM

Okay experts....I have recently purchased my airstream. She's a 31ft 1971. I was planning on turning her into something which includes removing the entire interior and replacing it with new stuff, much less and lighter than the original inside weighs. My question is.....how many of those who have restored classics did a complete shell off restoration? I can handle the idea of gutting the trailer down to the bare skin, replacing wiring and insulation and then rebuilding, but the thought of taking the entire shell off might be too much for me. Is it even worth renovating and restoring without doing a shell off? Pros and cons? I really do not want to take the shell off but I do not want to waste my time and money restoring something incorrectly. Any input is appreciated! Thanks

goransons · 12-31-2016, 07:19 PM

If you have an indoor work space to remove the body, keeping it out of the wind etc, with the ability to lift that long of a trailer from above, and are handy and do your research there are benefits to a shell off. I've done a couple shell on, and one full shell off. It is possible to install the plywood sub floor under the c channel (essentially the bottom plate of a traditionally framed wall) in halves with a splice down the middle of the trailer, but the difficulty is bolting the walls back to the frame. We've had luck with two solutions, one was drilling 4" holes in the belly pan to reach up in at each cross member to bolt the body back to the chassis frame then patching the hole, but recently while helping a buddy we drilled the 4" hole in the new plywood and reached in and took care of it from above then installed a block and reinstalled the cored out piece of plywood with screws and construction adhesive since the holes all were going to end up under cabinets anyway and kept his belly pan looking good. 31' is a lot of trailer to lift off a frame but it can be done and people do, but plan on lots of cross braces and be prepared to lift from several points.

Hope that helps

Isuzusweet · 12-31-2016, 07:26 PM

The decision to do a Full Monty or not will depend on what you find when you take out the interior (keeping everything until the project is done) to assess the subfloor condition and drop the under tray to assess the frame condition. Take the interior out and moisture meter the subfloor; drop the undertray and if the frame is in great shape, PQR-15 the frame and re-insulate. Why do work that doesn't need to be done.

Please keep in mind when taking out the interior to section off the trailer into four or more sections and try and weigh items that you take out of those sections, which will give you an indication of where the weight goes. Remember, if you take weight out of one section, say the back, you will need to take out the same weight in the front to keep the trailers balance.

It would be really good to have a couple of these under the axles on both sides and a scale under the hitch to weigh the trailer before you gut and weigh the trailer as you add interior weight.

https://www.uline.ca/BL_2212/Low-Profile-Floor-Scales

It's a lot more science than design.

Cheers
Tony

CaCraig · 12-31-2016, 09:46 PM

I doubt any remodel will be lighter than original unless you remove cabinets. The original stuff is really light. It's all aluminum and Formica covered 1/8" plywood.

StreamRoller · 12-31-2016, 11:39 PM

Thank you all so much for the information. I am very new to this and want to gain as much knowledge as I can before I dive in and make rookie mistakes. Anyone have any idea how much it might weigh when it's completely gutted? Not sure those big scales are going to fit into my budget any time soon

I'm going to start removing things from it tomorrow. Any advice as to what in the trailer has resale value and what should be tossed? It's all original with the exception of the front couch and refrigerator.

Isuzusweet · 01-01-2017, 06:58 AM

With Airstreams there were ball park weights and then specific unit weights as people bought, say a Land Yacht, but would then add many options which would increase the weight over stock. I would weigh your trailer first at a CAT scale to get weights for yours. Weigh just the trailer on the scales with your tow vehicle off the scales , then weigh the tongue weight by stopping the trailer just as the axles are almost on the scale and unhitch.

If you do not know what the weight is, and where it is, you could create an untowable trailer by putting weight where it shouldn't be. A trailer with too much weight behind the axles will have trailer sway, which is very scary and too much weight ahead of the axles will affect your tow vehicles hitch area, ability to corner and brake .