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09-05-2021, 07:14 AM
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#21
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3 Rivet Member 
1987 34' Limited
Hantsport
, NS
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hittenstiehl
From what I've read and studied, exactness, precision and symmetry had not been a major focal point at Airstream.
I have read where owners are repairing something behind the scenes and say this had to have been repaired by a previous owner and not original. They refer to pieces of support wood being different types of wood and raw cut and different sizes. Screws and bolts are often varying styles and sizes and sometimes just barely long enough to capture the adjoining piece of wood.
Your frame is looking terrific. Probably better than the original.
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Yes, other than the new left side main rail that is still 1/8" thick, the outriggers and cross members are heavier metal than the original and all seams are thoroughly welded. If I outlast the trailer I'll be very, very old. lol
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09-05-2021, 08:24 AM
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#22
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2 Rivet Member 
1986 31' Sovereign
1974 Argosy 22
1975 Argosy 22
Ancaster
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 82
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When I templated our new floor pieces, I had no rear floor to work with as it was mostly rotted away. To mark the new plywood I lined everything up on the old frame and with the old C channel, put pins through all the reference points and then worked the plywood into place by removing a few pins and then relocating them. I drilled through the plywood at my reference points, secured everything and the traced the curve of the C channel.
At the front, the wood was still usable so I used it to trace the curves, and that's the one that was off.
If everything else lines up and one of the mounting holes is off slightly, you can always drill a new hole.
I would also look and see which orientation of the rear channel gives you the best alignment with the straight sections of channel on each side.
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09-08-2021, 07:22 AM
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#23
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3 Rivet Member 
1987 34' Limited
Hantsport
, NS
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 169
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The floor is fit but not yet bolted down. I've measured the subfloor pieces to the point of goofy-ness over several sessions to minimize the risk of a dyslexic mistake. I've drilled the holes through the Coosa into the cross members front and back using the old OSB pieces and the front cross member holes as guides.
I need to router the 3/4" Coosa to 1/2" at the radius pieces and 5/8" on the straight sides, fit a newly fabbed aluminum fresh water tank pan (mounting holes), install the waste tanks/pan so I've got an exact bearing on the input and stink pipe coordinates (the entire floor where the toilet had sat was powdered OSB), then the c channel which I expect will compel some minor tweaking of the perimeter of the radius subfloor pieces (deliberately cut slightly oversize),...install the stainless perimeter bolts, and elevator bolts through the main part of the floor. The frame is perfectly level, and all measures that I had taken of the old setup are bang on.
Cheers!
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10-17-2021, 06:41 AM
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#24
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3 Rivet Member 
1987 34' Limited
Hantsport
, NS
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 169
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Slow going. I had the floor fit with the C channel mounted, but took it all apart to apply epoxy resin to the edges and perimeter over and under. I'm noting that UV isn't kind to the untreated Coosa, and where I'm working outside as and when the weather gods allow, the tarps are on and off often, and the subfloor has had a lot of sun exposure - I spend plenty of time trying to figure stuff out and hopefully avoid expensive errors. I could likely have gotten away with no epoxy, but Joe Condon from the f-book AS page recommends covering the floor to add resilience during the construction phase. As well it hardens up the edges that will endure moisture and c-channel stresses. Now's the time.
I've used elevator bolts to screw down the Coosa; another of Joe Condon's suggestions. Seams are glued with a J West product, a dab of glue under the bolt head, and they pull down nicely into the Coosa. (original holes were used along the centre spine - the wobbly pattern isn't my doing!) Where I've been working on this alone, it's up and down-under often to recess the bolt head just enough that I'll be able to cover it with an epoxy filler, then epoxy resin on the floor. Today I'll double nut the bolts underneath with stainless nylock, then re-install the new sheet of bellypan that nudges up under the forward lip of the fresh tank pan. New axles were ordered from Colin H in August, and they'll be delivered tomorrow. Where the fresh water tank is tangled between the axles, I'd like to complete this part of the underside and hopefully not look at it again for awhile. Fitting the new aluminum fresh tank pan was a bugger of a job as the aluminum topside dimensions had distorted with the welding, and I'm using the old frame mounting holes. Some creative ratcheting with two pullers and we achieved the original dimensions. Then drilled the new bellypan material to fit these holes as well......
When I removed the grey/black tank pan I didn't take photos, thinking '...this is common sense...' on the tank plumbing. I've had a new main rail and axle plate installed on the left side. It's a rubics cube exercise to get these tanks and the pan in with insulation where it should be, so I installed the pan and dropped the tanks through the top with the subfloor removed. As I prepared to replicate the old plumbing with new dump valves (Valterra being used as they are more readily available) I'm noting that the old plumbing exit for the grey tank is obstructed by the axle plate. So, with no photos and the old steel long gone to the recycler, I'm thinking that the axle plate must have been cut back at the rear most edge by a foot or so. I don't like the idea of cutting into the plate, so I'll be doing the leggo thing with a box of ABS angles to try and move the plumbing configuration. Sealevel tank monitors have been installed.
I'm using 3/8" bolts at the outriggers, stainless. Most of the c channel bottom at the ends were repaired with new aluminum due to corrosion, then I prepped and painted the undersides and inside lips with POR 15. Duct tape is being used anywhere that the aluminum meets steel; c channel, bellypan..... This should slow the dissimilar metal reaction.
Getting close to putting the package back together, but still a few more tasks to complete as I keep an eye on the weather.
I think I'll name this thing Columbo "...oh, just one more thing..."!!
Cheers
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10-21-2021, 07:43 AM
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#25
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3 Rivet Member 
1987 34' Limited
Hantsport
, NS
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 169
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The cooler temperatures are slowing down progress as epoxy and glue are refusing to cure. Hopefully the rear floor gets finished today and tomorrow as we have a slight uptick in temperatures. I've been lamenting the possibility of difficulties getting the skins over c-channel on the 4 corners so have been reluctant to commit to the final fasteners, but there's only one way to find out if everything is as it should be. The floor is centered and square, and the precise measure from front to back is exact. As I had mentioned earlier, what came off had not been perfectly square.
Now that the the floor to frame bolts are double nutted with nylock on the section from the water tank forward 4 feet, I've affixed the bellypan piece. I'm using the same type self-threading bolts with fender washers as hold the tank pans. I'm not using rivets as it'll be easier to access the underside if necessary. I plan to install clam shell vents; one per 2 foot section. I'll have to remove this piece of bellypan later as I cannot find 2" aluminum duct hose that runs from the front furnace to the fresh water tank anywhere in my neck of the woods. No HVAC or RV shop has heard of hose this narrow. It does exist so will need to be ordered and recent experience = large delays with most on-line purchases. The former fabric hose had a tear that I assume was a rodent hole, and would have made an excellent subway route from anywhere in the bellypan to the tank pan and then up through the floor opening that exposes the plumbing around the right edge of the fresh water tank.
The grey/black tank plumbing was rerouted, and the Sealevel 2 sensors are in place and wired together. First time for me with ABS so lots of measuring and hesitation due to the fast drying time. Although a small job, two people would be ideal as 4 hands are really needed to manage the cleaner, glue, then a tight fit within a few seconds before it begins to set. Photo shows the old routing lying on top of the tanks. I used a Tee instead of the Y as the exit needed to be moved rearward.
Axles have been delayed but are due today. The fresh water tank and the part of the bellypan that lie above the axles are in, so I'll hopefully not have to fuss with that later.
Just a quick update for anybody who may be following. No claim to new ideas - just about everything I'm doing is enabled by some excellent guidance that folks within this forum have contributed.
Cheers....
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10-21-2021, 08:02 AM
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#26
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Rivet Master 

1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 3,119
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Looks really good. I think everyone dropping the shell back on the chassis has a bit of difficulty. But I would rather have a challenge and it fit tightly than have too much slack and a distorted area appear on the exterior. There’s a lot of flexion in the shell until reattached. So, that’s to your advantage to work with. Good luck and watch your fingers.
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10-26-2021, 06:23 AM
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#27
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3 Rivet Member 
1987 34' Limited
Hantsport
, NS
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 169
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"...Axles have been delayed but are due today. The fresh water tank and the part of the bellypan that lie above the axles are in, so I'll hopefully not have to fuss with that later"....
I'm definately a contender for the longest duration subfloor / axle replacement award!
I didn't have the benefit of the new axles when I was putting tanks back in, so I used what came off as a guide.
When the axles arrived I had measured the hub face and bracket distances so I could breathe that sigh of relief that they'll fit.
Looking at the new axles yesterday prompted me to measure the width of the horizontal run of the top bracket that sits against the bottom of the frame rail. The old ones are 2 1/4" so I had fabbed the fresh water tank and bellypan ends to allow 2 3/8". Well, new ones are 2 1/2" so off again with the tank and belly aluminum to shave an addition 1/4" off the edges.
Had I kept the old fresh tank pan these new brackets would have interfered at the edges. I suppose I could have sandwiched the right and left lips of the tank pan between the axle and frame, but then the axles would need to be dropped to remove these items in the future.
Passing this on as it may help others plan for a likely tank pan modification when fitting new axles.
Cheers.
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10-31-2021, 09:19 AM
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#28
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3 Rivet Member 
1987 34' Limited
Hantsport
, NS
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 169
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The axles are on and the frame is aligned to slide under the shell, as soon as the wind and rain take a break. I'm kinda' dreading this next part due to trepidation over fitting the shell back on, so I'll wait for 2 clear days. I had overbuilt the interior wood reinforcement when I took this apart in anticipation of hurricane season (although there have been days where I wished this had blown away!), and will remove at least half of it tomorrow. The framework added weight and rigidity and peace of mind. Every aluminum stud has a X piece attached to it and I expect I'll need the flexibility of some movement to fit the skin over the channel.
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10-31-2021, 11:08 AM
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#29
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Rivet Master 
1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 873
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I had to remove the braces before the shell would set correctly back in the channel. I expect you'll have to do the same. I thought it would just slide back in since the bracing was added before the shell was unfastened and I had templates of the interior floor. Not the case.
Having the shell suspended from the roof "beam" allows a lot of adjustment as you go to slip in the channel.
Hope you have lots of assistants available. 34' is a lot of shell.
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10-31-2021, 04:17 PM
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#30
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3 Rivet Member 
1987 34' Limited
Hantsport
, NS
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57Vintage
I had to remove the braces before the shell would set correctly back in the channel. I expect you'll have to do the same. I thought it would just slide back in since the bracing was added before the shell was unfastened and I had templates of the interior floor. Not the case.
Attachment 407280 Attachment 407282
Having the shell suspended from the roof "beam" allows a lot of adjustment as you go to slip in the channel.
Attachment 407281
Hope you have lots of assistants available. 34' is a lot of shell.
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Great advice on the wood. I took this apart on my own but have several assistants lined up. Different play book for sure! I’ll reinstall the chain hoists and remove the interior wood framework tomorrow. Tues we’ll try and get it back together.
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11-03-2021, 08:07 AM
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#31
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3 Rivet Member 
1987 34' Limited
Hantsport
, NS
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 169
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Got it done yesterday. Six of us armed with multiple plastic drywall putty knives and a few wooden paint stir sticks, 4 hydraulic jacks to apply subtle pressure in stubborn places, and 2.5 hrs later it was on. We lowered the back first and worked toward the front. The last corner right side took some time and many hands to slide over the channel. A few hours with a dedicated buck riveting gun from AirCraft Spruce and it was intact. 5/32 rivets from vintage, short and in some places medium where we captured a rib. We did manage to line up a lot of the original holes.
A few takeways from the great advice offered through this forum that were beneficial; many hands/eyes makes for lighter work, have plenty of jacks available to tweak stubborn spots, level the frame before starting, think of the frame as a spring and apply pressure accordingly (jack pressure on the left rear helped with our challenges on the right front), and remove the wooden framing inside to allow the flex necessary to coax the sides over the channel. Having used the original rear and front radius pieces as templates, and having measured this thing to the extreme when I was taking it apart and when refitting the floor offered confidence that the rebuild was within spec of what came off, so despite an early panic that it was too tight, it could not have been. As others have noted, try everything. Tight is better than loose.
The new axles have a 32 degree down angle, so I've gained approx 4-5 inches over the dead axles that were taken off. A disadvantage of this down angle is fitting the shocks. They are all at maximum extend and two are extended all of the way but still 1/16" from the mounts. We'll monitor how it settles when loaded and hopefully gain enough downforce to align those two mounts.
A big relief to get this back as one before winter! No more tarps!
Cheers
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11-03-2021, 09:09 AM
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#32
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3 Rivet Member 
1970 23' Safari
Marion
, New York
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 198
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Congratulations!* I'm sure it's quite satisfying to complete this milestone in Airstream restoration.* I have yet to reach the point of shell reattachment, and it's encouraging to hear a success story.* Thanks for sharing the experience.**
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11-03-2021, 09:18 AM
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#33
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Rivet Master 
1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 873
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Nice work, shell on and bucked in one day.
Look forward to following the interior reno.
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11-10-2021, 11:04 AM
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#34
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3 Rivet Member 
1987 34' Limited
Hantsport
, NS
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 169
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The two new Maxair ceiling fans/vent are installed. Once the flange is fit the fan body needs to be opened to secure the screws in from the side. When lowering the fan, there was interference from the head of the TV antenna. I'm sure this had been mentioned in the many threads that advocate for the Maxair but it didn't register with me. I had debated removing the antenna to eliminate one more leak point. I rarely watch tv at home so.... It's glued, riveted, then generously caulked so a bit of a job on the roof to remove, clean, prep, and repair. I rustoleum-ed the aluminum where the antenna had been, fabbed a plate out of .050 alclad, and buck riveted it on. I'm finished with the roof for now, so will move the trailer and dismantle the gantries. Not being a big fan of heights, up-and-down-on-and-off the roof feels more secure with the gantries to take some weight as I stepped on and off the ladder. A light weight 12' telescopic aluminum ladder has been great for this project.
Temperatures are close to freezing, so what to do about caulking? After applying butyl tape around the underside edges of the fans, I used 4" wide alumabond at the seams of the fans, removed the hat, cleaned off the mountain of old caulking, and applied it around the perimeter of the fridge vent ( had a bad leak there ), and around the antenna repair. It is great stuff to work with, and looks decent although it stands out somewhat on an older trailer with patina. But, it's also on the roof. From all accounts it is very resilient and durable over time.
I'll replace the bathroom and kitchen vent fans, and remove a few artifact roof brackets that are no longer relevant in the Spring. In the interim I'll watch closely for leaks. After doubling up on the floor to outrigger bolts, and a few more floor elevator bolts, next on the list will be 1/8" aluminum outer wheel wells, then the wiring.
Cheers
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