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Old 07-07-2004, 04:56 AM   #1
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Second thoughts on Pergo

I have been having way too much fun. Can't find the time to install my
new Pergo floating floor. But since I have had the carpet removed
I have had two bad spills. A quart of milk was ugly to deal with.
(The milk container flipped over inside the fridge and leaked everywhere while I was towing.) If the milk got under the pergo it would have been much worse
So now I am thinking about a glued in vinyl floor.
Does any pergo people have any other horror stories or helpful hints?
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Old 07-07-2004, 06:29 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mandolindave
I have been having way too much fun. Can't find the time to install my
new Pergo floating floor. But since I have had the carpet removed
I have had two bad spills. A quart of milk was ugly to deal with.
(The milk container flipped over inside the fridge and leaked everywhere while I was towing.) If the milk got under the pergo it would have been much worse
So now I am thinking about a glued in vinyl floor.
Does any pergo people have any other horror stories or helpful hints?
We've had Pergo in our Tradewind for a few years now. If installed properly, using the Pergo finish edge, it is difficult to get fluids under it. The edging lays right up against the walls, and has a thin bead of flexible caulking between the wall and the edging.
Underneath this finishing edge goes a semi flexible adhesive, basically sealing the outside edge of the Pergo.
This, of course, can also be done where the floor meets the refrigerator.
Otherwise, liquids could trap under the floor near the shower and kitchen, where some exposure to it is inevitable. I find the Pergo floor all but indestuctible, and ours does not get pampered. We camp on the beach, where 40grit feet and wet bathing suits are a daily occurance.
I think that a quality installation ( key!) and reasonable care afterwards will reward you with a very attractive and durable flooring for your trailer.
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Old 07-07-2004, 07:40 AM   #3
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Well Dave how about second thoughts on milk.

Or at least look into Tupperwear or a pussycat.
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Old 07-07-2004, 07:52 AM   #4
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My only regret about the Pergo installed in our trailer is that isn't installed throughout the trailer. We have it only in the galley area. Carpet covers the rest. The Pergo looks rich, warm and inviting. It is much easier to maintain. Properly installed, there shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 07-07-2004, 08:44 AM   #5
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I too have Pergo in my 75 - we really love it. I have to admit I kinda still share your concerns - not so much spilling stuff, but with leaks that will happen (they will all leak someday) and if the water runs down the wall and comes out on the floor.

Figure we will deal with it when it happens.

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Old 07-07-2004, 02:22 PM   #6
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The good stuff has a green underside which is effect like water resistant drywall. It's recommended for areas such as kitchens that may get penetration. I've got Pergo in both my '67's and wouldn't have anything else.
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Old 07-07-2004, 02:25 PM   #7
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Mosture issues w/Pergo

I had Pergo installed in my home about 4 years ago. The kitchen and Laundry room have a few places which have very minor swelling around some joints. Perhaps the installer did something wrong but I am concerned about using Pergo in my 34'. Has anyone else had problems with Pergo or lamanates?
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Old 07-07-2004, 02:31 PM   #8
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Well thats good news because mine is the green backed (thought it was more like blue) stuff - in my view its the only way to go - don't have to mess with any underlayment - no glue just snaps together. Which by the way is what I figured I would do is just unsnap it if I ever have any problems - you can snap and unsnap it.

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Old 07-07-2004, 03:56 PM   #9
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I am not so much worried about moisture on top as I am of moisture
getting underneath the pergo and on top of the plywood subfloor.
It would be hard to dry and damaging to the subfloor.
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Old 07-07-2004, 03:59 PM   #10
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I have had Wilson Art brand laminate, (the only other one beside Pergo supposedly high pressure laminated) it has been stomped on in my kitchen and sunroom for 8 years. Looks like brand new hardwood, with very little maintenance. Has had evrything spilled on it, and a few dishwasher overflows as well.
On the other hand, I put cork in my Airstream. It looks good, but after a solid month of high heat and rain,,,tons of humidity....it pulled up in a few spots, and has had to be re glued
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Old 07-07-2004, 05:36 PM   #11
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Pergo is the way to go!

It's been over a year since I put a better grade of Pergo down in the Motor Home - from the engine riser all the way back to the rear end - I would do it again.

True Pergo is made in Europe, and I think it must contain recycled concrete. I burned up two 10" saw blades on a table saw making the various cuts to fit the ends and outs of the MoHO floorplan. Sparks were flying everywhere. Make sure you wear some sort of dust filter for breathing when you cut it with a saw.

No problems with bounce or movement. The "snap joints" are close enough that I don't think water would penetrate them at all. I did not seal the perimeter, but there are enough "inspection" points available that a problem would let itself be noticed (under the couch, around the step, under dinette, sink, bed, etc.). I did seal the OSB wih a couple of coats of Kilz to prevent mold growth. The first coat I thinned for penetration, and the second coat I also applied thin. I am pretty sure the floor will "breath", but on the MoHO the OSB rests directly on a metal barrier, the metal is thicker in various places (i.e. over the frame mounted Propane tank) than others (bed room underlayment is only thin aluminum).

Traveling with the pups I just couldn't bring myself to put down real wood (I looked, but couldn't find any I thought was paw proof). But other than that (not "real" wood), I am satisfied with the product and finish.
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Old 07-07-2004, 07:04 PM   #12
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I used Alloc, a self locking Pergo imitation. I too was concerned about possible water leaks and so installed mine by using #4 brass screws to hold down the quarter round. It could all come up in 20 minutes or so.

And boy do I agree about the saw blades. I totally dulled two quality 10" Freud carbide blades.

Mark

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Old 07-07-2004, 08:57 PM   #13
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Laminates

Thanks Alan, Ken, Dennis and Mark,

The snap togather laminates must be a real improvement. How wide will a folded piece be when it snap in place? How do you join if more width is needed?

I'll be checking into the cork too, I have a factory wood floor in the galley, so am afraid of getting and odd look. John Irwin gave me some useful tips on installation.

My concern is to get a good look and something that will be easy to clean up when my dog track stuff in and when she gets off her mat at night.
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Old 07-07-2004, 11:57 PM   #14
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Our '04 has a sheet vinyl floor between the bedroom & front couch. While trying to fix a small problem with the carpet edging I noticed that the vinyl is NOT glued to the floor. It is held in (over the plywood floor) by the interiour fixtures only!!!
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Old 07-08-2004, 05:45 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnbaker
....The snap togather laminates must be a real improvement. How wide will a folded piece be when it snap in place? How do you join if more width is needed?
John Baker:

Depending on Brand and Series, each piece could be from 4" to almost 12" wide, and from 2' to 4' long. The pieces are designed to interlock on all 4 sides, so each side "snaps" onto the adjacent piece, making it lood like a real wood floor. You can go as long or as wide as you want, simple lay more pieces. I did the living/dining room of my (really small) house in Houston with a cheap version of an interlocking laminate floor. So far, it has held up great, I just put a better laminate floor pad down on the slab (took up the carpeting first - it also was laid directly over the slab) and left a bit less than 1/2" on all sides for expansion. I looked for expansion/extraction during the first big temp swing after putting it down, and quite honestly, with a 50 degree difference in stabilized room temps (didn't measure floor or slab temp), I couldn't see any expansion/contraction at all.

Most of the larger flooring stores will have samples of their lines and will demonstrate how their connection works.

Home Depot and Lowes usually give "do it yourself" installation demonstration classes on schedule or request. The two DIY meglamarts will also give a fairly honest comparison of their entire line (they carry examples of just about all types of flooring available).

It's not difficult, but it does require a table saw and power miter saw to make decent fitting cuts and for trim installation.

Luck
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Old 07-08-2004, 06:11 AM   #16
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True Pergo is made in Europe, and I think it must contain recycled concrete. I burned up two 10" saw blades on a table saw making the various cuts to fit the ends and outs of the MoHO floorplan. Sparks were flying everywhere.
Quote:
Originally Posted by j54mark
And boy do I agree about the saw blades. I totally dulled two quality 10" Freud carbide blades.
Camping around here means sand, I was really concerned about scratches and wear. Guess I will put that concern aside (and gather up all the half dull blades).

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Old 07-08-2004, 07:45 AM   #17
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I like the thought of Pergo-style flooring, but I'm concerned about increased noise level if I use it in my motorhome. Wouldn't you lose a lot of the sound absorption that you get with carpet? Anyone have direct experience with this?

Bob
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Old 07-08-2004, 08:03 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcneon
I like the thought of Pergo-style flooring, but I'm concerned about increased noise level if I use it in my motorhome. Wouldn't you lose a lot of the sound absorption that you get with carpet? Anyone have direct experience with this? Bob
No noise difference at all that I can detect. Most of the noise generated on the 345 seems to come from the front end, and I installed new carpet from the engine riser forward.

I had enough new carpet left over from the front cabin and doghouse recovering to make three runners that pretty well cover most of the Pergo.....but.....even without the runners I really cannot detect an increase in the noise level.

The three runners are small enough to conveniently roll up and take outside to shake out. Also small enough to lay across a picnic table to air them out. I took the runners to an independant rug firm and had them bind the edges. I think it was around a hundred bucks to bind all three of them.
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Old 07-08-2004, 08:09 AM   #19
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I second Dennis' lack of noise increase in the MH. We installed a laminate wood flooring product in our 345 and see no noise increases while traveling. I also put down the more expensive pad but installed a lower end (Sam's Club) laminate product.

We were able to install in a single weekend (used a power miter saw and table saw and hand held jig saw). We did from front to back bedroom and bathroom so planning took more time than cutting/installing. This was my first lamintate floor installation so I learned a lot on this project.

We're really happy with the results and after a few recent campground adventures it's holding up well to three kids, two adults, one dog and a lot of mud and dirt. We can clean it the whole floor in a few minutes with a broom and a Swiffer (sp?).

Whole project cost about $140 to date. I'll need a couple more boxes to finish the bedroom and change a few smaller pieces as I build the new dinette.

I'll tell you one thing. After seeing the amount of dirt that gets tracked into the MH I can't imaging putting carpet down again.
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Old 07-08-2004, 08:24 AM   #20
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Hi all,

Personally, I just don't like the "faux wood" look of Pergo. I know, it is close looking, but for me, the way that it (nevertheless) misses the target just is unappealing. No offense intended to the folks who have it and like it--you know, different strokes.

But I don't think I'd mind if Pergo made a flooring didn't try to look like wood--if it went for a fun, colorful, deliberately laminate look it would be much more attractive (oooh, and if it had aqua boomerangs printed on it, I'd be in heaven).

Anyone know of any such beast?

Mary
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