Rust Proofing

[danesh]

We have a 85 sovereign which has some ruct on the A-frame close to the front body , the underbody (step well, stabelizers, frame), and the all the parts at the rear where the bumper is connected. Does anyone has an idea what to do? Should I sand blast the areas then rustproof it ansd put a layer of automotive underbody paint? Any suggestions are welcomed.
Thanks

[markdoane]

Yeah, do exactly what you say.
I went too far with mine, removed the shell, sand-blasted the frame, applied about $300 worth of POR-15 paint.
If you can avoid taking the shell off, I would just use a good rustproofing paint and forget it for 20 or 30 years.

[wahoonc]

I have a similar issue with mine, it spent quite a bit of time in a coastal enviornment . I am going to GENTLY! sandblast the front A frame, (take exteme care to protect the aluminum it is very soft and will scratch easily from the sandblasting).Then paint it with a high grade metal primer and industrial enamel. My rear frame is going to require some surgery. You need to make sure that the frame's structural integrity has not been compromised by severe rust or rust thru, I looked at one unit where the frame was so weak you could push a screwdriver or knife blade through it in places. I plan on pretty much the same method in the stair step area too. Eventually I will drop the belly pan and refinish the rest of the frame too.

Aaron

[nickcrowhurst]

Danesh, I'm glad you raised this issue. Because the frame is mostly hidden, it is easy to believe all is well. I learnt the truth when I went to an RV wreck yard,and saw several late model Airstreams which had been torn apart. Fifteen year old Airstreams had such severe corrosion in the area near the rear bumper that they were falling apart. I removed my rear bumper by drilling out the 4 corroded set screws (later replaced with stainless steel set screws with zinc chromate paste to prevent electrolytic corrosion) . When the bumper was off I chipped off all the loose flakes, treated the areas with phosphoric acid, and then used Rustoleum grey paint. You also then have access to the open end of the 25 foot long frame box sections. I made up a 25 foot tube, pushed it right down each frame section, connected this to a spray gun and compressor, and pumped rust-proofing fluid down the tube. I had a radial spray fitting on the end, and packed it so it was at half height in the box-section, and gradually withdrew the tube, aiming to spray the whole inside of the tubes. I bought the JC Whitney car-body rust-proofing kit, but my 2 HP air compressor was insufficient to spray the thick fluid down such a long tube. It just dribbled out the end. I am going to find a professional rust-proofing outfit to do the box sections with a more powerful setup. I am also going to remove the lower curved body sections, one at a time, and treat the outside of the frame.
It's a time-consuming task, but I aim to hand my trailer down the generations, preferably without having to take the body off the frame for a re-build. Good luck with the project. Nick.

[remcolent]

At least on my cars I have verry good results with praying with transmision fluid
its verry thin and it will creep behind existing rust
the normaly used probucts are to thick and will just put a laier on top of the rust
only problem is that it will leak transmision fluid for some time

Remco

[Tripp]

It is very simple to remove the lower wraps on the late 60-70's model A/S too. I have rust on the front and rear frames and was worried that it might extend the length of the frame. I pulled off my wraps (and dollied out the dents at the same time) and was pleasantly surprised to see factory primer beyond the wrap.

With the wraps off, you have better access to grind/sandblast/sand any areas you need to and ensure complete coverage to the exposed areas.

Good Luck!


Tripp