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Old 08-29-2007, 11:34 AM   #21
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The old saying holds true...

"There are two types of old Airstreams...those with rear floor issues and those with rear floor issues that have been repaired."

There is a third category, but they're extremely rare.
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Old 08-29-2007, 11:55 AM   #22
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I'll also be tackeling the rear floor rot problem within the next couple of weeks in my '68 Overlander. In addition, some of the plastic bathroom vanity parts have cracked. Is the consensus to fiberglass the cracks from the inside to add strength? These cracks are limited to the area around the door under the sink which accesses the converter.
Also, about the grey water issue, are more RV parks requiring grey water capture? If so, this might be a good time to retrofit our older Airstreams when we have the floor out of the way. For those of you who have done this, where did you locate the grey water tank (if you're keeping the black water tank).
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Old 08-29-2007, 02:30 PM   #23
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Ron, I'm think I'm very lucky to be in that rare 3rd catagory! I'm now into the bathroom of my brand new '67 Safari. Fixtures out, tile out, and the plywood looks nice. Can't believe it because I've read all the horror stories I could stand before I actually got to the back. If I'd have read those before I bought the Safari, I would have been wayyy more careful making the purchase. Just lucked out. I've peeled back the belly pan and it looks good so far.I'll know more this week end. Looks like I may replace the black water tank though.
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Old 08-29-2007, 08:09 PM   #24
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10brink,

Consider yourself extremely blessed!
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Old 08-29-2007, 08:59 PM   #25
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Quote:
A good Airstream shop can put a gray tank in a 72 for $1000 to $1500 dollars.
An even better Airstream shop can do it for less. Just to give you an idea (and I know it's for my black tank, but a tank is a tank is a tank; figuring out where it goes shouldn't cost a dime, especially if the shop has done it before) South Jersey RV had a new polyethylene black tank fabricated and a new galvanized holding pan fabricated and installed for me. Removal of old tank and reinstallation of new tank and buttoned up was 7.25hrs of labor@ $59/hr. New aluminum underbelly was $49.90, new holding tank probes were $13.23, styrofoam for pan liner was $7.00, new 3" waste valve was $14.19, new holding tank was $279.00 and the metal to fabricate the new galvanized pan liner was $18.50.

Total price: $809.57

Shop around to get the best price, and ask questions, ie: how long will the work take, may I have a written estimate, etc. Look at work currently being done in the shop. If they won't let you look, don't give them your business. Excuses about insurance liabilities are garbage.

Ask the shop for a list of past/current customers; talk to them and see if they're satisfied. If the shop won't give you references, walk away; again, excuses about privacy are garbage...many customers give the ok to be listed as a reference.

Google the shop and see if there are/have been lawsuits against the company from dissatisfied customers for lack of services rendered.

Once you're satisfied with the legitimacy of a shop, open your checkbook

Frederic
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Old 08-30-2007, 08:42 AM   #26
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Parts prices.

Those parts prices and labor were very accurate, 15 years ago.

The cheapest Thetford waste valve today costs more than $50.00.

Of course you can purchase cheap parts from Big Lots and K-Mart but then that makes an Airstream a "hybrid," which is certainly acceptable to some owners, but not to the vast majority of owners.

Keeping an Airstream product within the Airstream family of designs, does indeed cost more money.

But, you also get what you pay for.

Andy
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Old 08-30-2007, 09:08 AM   #27
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Very well said Andy
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Old 08-30-2007, 09:21 AM   #28
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Frederic, in some areas, that hourly rate is horribly low. Most places around here won't touch an RV or car for less than $85 an hour, and mostly higher.
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Old 08-30-2007, 11:41 AM   #29
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Those prices were from two years ago. Granted there are Airstream "repair" shops who take advantage of the name brand to hike up the prices, but I'm looking at the bill and the prices are what they are. I don't just blindly hand over money, because I have a supposed "status" symbol. The dump valve is indeed a Thetford. It's a shame that there are some people who unfairly take advantage of their customers and overcharge for parts and services rendered. Like I said, do your homework before you open your checkbook and get taken to the cleaners.

Frederic
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Old 08-30-2007, 11:58 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StingrayL82
Those prices were from two years ago. Granted there are Airstream "repair" shops who take advantage of the name brand to hike up the prices, but I'm looking at the bill and the prices are what they are. I don't just blindly hand over money, because I have a supposed "status" symbol. The dump valve is indeed a Thetford. It's a shame that there are some people who unfairly take advantage of their customers and overcharge for parts and services rendered. Like I said, do your homework before you open your checkbook and get taken to the cleaners.

Frederic
If you would please, we would like to know the name of the shop that charged $ 14.19 for a Thetford valve, and so would every other RV dealership in the United States.

We would like to buy at least 500 of them or so at that price.

The Thetford factory charges many times more than that to their wholesale distributors.

Facts are facts and installing a gray tank, when a trailer never had one, costs far more than a replacement black water tank.

Andy
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Old 08-30-2007, 12:07 PM   #31
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Andy, charge what you want; it's your prerogative. This forum is for helping people, not arguing. If you want a Thetford dump valve, call Ron Amme at South Jersey RV. I believe you two know each other from back in the day.

Frederic
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Old 08-30-2007, 01:45 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StingrayL82
If you want a Thetford dump valve, call Ron Amme at South Jersey RV. I believe you two know each other from back in the day.

Frederic
I knew Bob Jayne who owned South Jersey in the late 60's and early 70's.

Bob got killed trying to land his Ercoupe plane in foggy weather.

His son-in-law was named Ron.

Not the same Ron.

Andy
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Old 08-30-2007, 01:54 PM   #33
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After reading some of your posts I've changed my mind about removing the blackwater tank. I pulled it out today and pressure washed it. It will be rechristened a yellowater tank and replaced. A question for anyone who has rebuilt the back of their AS: Are there shower pans and fiberglass parts for sinks and such that work particularly well available? Or do we just kind of try to make it look as nice as possible using off the shelf stuff?
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Old 08-30-2007, 02:47 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plossl
After reading some of your posts I've changed my mind about removing the blackwater tank. I pulled it out today and pressure washed it. It will be rechristened a yellowater tank and replaced. A question for anyone who has rebuilt the back of their AS: Are there shower pans and fiberglass parts for sinks and such that work particularly well available? Or do we just kind of try to make it look as nice as possible using off the shelf stuff?

Some bath parts have been recreated by us.

Which parts are you interested in?

Andy
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Old 08-30-2007, 07:54 PM   #35
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Andy-
I'll call you about the bath parts. Thanks.
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