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Old 05-29-2012, 03:50 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
1972 23' Safari
Burlington , Kentucky
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 54
removing shell from frame.......(72 safari)

So...I'm 99% ready to pull shell from frame...I've looked at a bunch of postings where all the pics show the banana skins removed and the shell sittin on supports. Had no problem with the front and rear... what about the side ones?

They are solid rivets that also hold the channel that holds the floor.

All the floor bolts are removed can I just leave the floor, skins and track for now... seperate the shell and later flex the sides to remove the floor from the track?

IF not How do I remove AND replace these solid rivets...Where can I get the removal and install tools and rivets

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Old 05-29-2012, 03:55 PM   #2
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1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge , Colorado
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Im about where you are but my skins come down past the floor so i will have to put the shell on something. Just punch the center of the rivet with a punch and drill them out. You can get Olympic rivets to replace them. Inland rv or vintage trailer will have them.

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Old 05-29-2012, 04:33 PM   #3
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1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak , North Carolina
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I use a "rivet remover tool" (don't think I paid THAT much for mine!) A center punch works well too. You can buy a complete buck rivet installation kit from Vintage Trailer Supply.

I have most of this stuff and the rest I borrowed from an uncle that works on antique aircraft.

I would NOT want to use olympic rivets where structural integrity is paramount, but I am anal that way.

I am in the process of overhauling the rear end on my 1975, I am replacing a lot of the metal back there and doubling up on rivets in a couple of places.

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Old 05-29-2012, 04:54 PM   #4
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1974 31' Excella 500
Charleston , South Carolina
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Like Purman said, center punch to create a dimple for the drill bit to bite on and drill them out. Easy-peasy lemon-squeezy.

As for the shell dropping below the floor level, what I did, was had horizontal braces perpendicular to the length of the shell about mid way up and built some knee walls where the braces rest on the top of the knee walls and the bottom of the knee walls drop below the level of the skin. Worked like a champ.
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:48 PM   #5
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1972 23' Safari
Burlington , Kentucky
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 54
Sooooo... while I've got many hours in to rivet removal...what's a nother hundred. But since I got only got a small section on the door side and 2x that on the other side.. it does look like the install might be a bit easier cause you could have the floor on the trailerready to go...aling up the holes and start reviting... with the help of a partner on the other side....
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Old 05-29-2012, 08:17 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by purman View Post
You can get Olympic rivets to replace them. Inland rv or vintage trailer will have them.
Don't use Olympic rivets to attach the entire shell back to the C channel. They do not have the same strength as buck (solid) rivets. Plus they have a tendency to leak and we all know how hard it is to keep these trailers from leaking.
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:18 AM   #7
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1969 27' Overlander
Lenoir , North Carolina
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 30
You didnt state how you are plannig on raising the shell....from above or cribbing up. I cribbed mine up and when it was high enough to clear the wheel wells I used mason string and pulled the overhangs out enough to clear and tied them to my cribbs, be carefull and not pull too much or you will crease the skins.
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