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Old 11-28-2006, 04:43 PM   #1
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Recommended floor material

Im doing a floor replacement on a 63 tradewind and have seen different recommendations as far as what to use for replacing the floor. Ive seen some suggest marine grade plywood and others used a type of Poly flooring.
I cant any of the threads but my question is other than marine grade plywood what are the best ways to go, also what can I apply on the edge for a moisture barrier.
Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-28-2006, 05:53 PM   #2
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If you're going to replace the entire floor, I would recommend a product called Advantech. It's waterproof and has a 50 year guarantee. It's available at Lowe's or other lumber suppliers. It's 3/4 inch thick, looks similar to OSB but is far superior. Due to the housing slump the price has dropped to around $20.00 for a 4x8 sheet.
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Old 11-28-2006, 06:03 PM   #3
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When I purchased a shed for my yard, as it was being set up I noticed that the floor appeard to be OSB. I questioned the installers as I recalled when I made the purchase, the models were plywood floors. They told me they were having a lot of problems with the plywood delaminating and this was a new product called Advantech which seemed to be successful. I am always bringing in wet equipment, gas and oil leaks. The floor has been very solid and shows no signs of deterioration. This is in a shed, not an Airstream. I believe this material is very stable. I'm sure you'll get all kinds of recommendations until your head is spinning. Other have done the research and can tell you first hand service proven performance. Give us an update on the direction you choose. Good luck on you project, floors are a great experience. You'll learn it's the first component installed after the frame is built.
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Old 11-28-2006, 06:34 PM   #4
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Thanks for the tips guys, I will look into that product and let you know which way I go
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Old 11-28-2006, 06:35 PM   #5
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Marine grade is a waste of money in this install, it has the same glue as exterior.
THe difference is the innner plys have no voids-which in needed on boats.
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Old 11-28-2006, 06:52 PM   #6
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i'm getting ready to do replace my floor too. the advantech stuff sounds interesting. i'll be curious to find out what others have to say.

here's an old post with some info:

http://www.airforums.com/forum...ight=advantech
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Old 11-28-2006, 07:56 PM   #7
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If you go 3/4" I fear you'd have to do a shell off. The original material was about 1/2" and very little more. I used some nearly solid core 19/32" underlayment on my Argo -- sealed all edges with Rot Doctor. But it was a tight fit. 24/32" would be too much.
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Old 11-28-2006, 08:05 PM   #8
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I used 1/4" luan as an underlayment screwed and glued then covered with self stick tile and later with engineered wood flooring. It works great and have had no problems with either flooring. I personally like the engineered wood look. It was a easy project to do well within the ability of most weekend warriors.
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Old 11-28-2006, 08:05 PM   #9
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You could use a router to cut down the edge to fit?

I suggest getting 1/2" exterior ply, it did work for the past 30-40 years.

The one thing I would do (and did) is coat the wood with fiberglass resin it will last forever.
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Old 11-28-2006, 09:50 PM   #10
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Is this advantech product structurally up to the job? It may be better in terms of de-lamination. Along with the walls and frame, the floor is a major part of your structural integrity. I would go for the product that has the structural properties, and then add a sealer/resin or something if you are concerned with moisture.
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Old 11-29-2006, 03:36 PM   #11
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checked out lowes today for this advantech but they dont seem to know what Im talking about. I also looked for some wood treatment stuff but all they had was
Behr waterproofing and thompsons water seal.
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Old 11-29-2006, 03:58 PM   #12
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I used to build salt water aquariums out of 3/4 exterior ply and 2x4 framing. The joints were sealed with two part epoxy resin. Then I put 3-coats of two part epoxy paint over that. The paint was called "Plast-kote" and I think it was made here in Tampa by Pilgrim Paints.
Now I haven't used this on a trailer floor, but am considering it.
The aquariums were water tight for a minimum of fifteen years. At that point, if we had reason to drain the tank we would sand it down and apply a single coat good for another 15 plus. I figure if the stuff lasted with all that water pressure trying to pull the joints apart it should do fine as a waterproofing for sheet application.
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Old 11-29-2006, 04:05 PM   #13
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That's great I built tanks too!

I think it was the epoxy that did most of the work.
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Old 11-29-2006, 06:03 PM   #14
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Okay, Im at the point of trying to get the old floor out and am not sure if I can get it out whole, I doubt it. What do you guys recommend as far as making a pattern for a new floor just in case?
Thanks again guys
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Old 11-29-2006, 06:40 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by durans54
Okay, Im at the point of trying to get the old floor out and am not sure if I can get it out whole, I doubt it. What do you guys recommend as far as making a pattern for a new floor just in case?
How soon are you starting? I might have an answer -- tho' it'll take a day to get it posted.
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Old 11-29-2006, 06:45 PM   #16
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Question, is the entire floor shot?

Or are just sections, any pic's?
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Old 11-29-2006, 07:01 PM   #17
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As far as when am I starting, Ive started, Ive cut the floor down the middle and cut the bolts off the sides, it seems its a little stuck under the sill on the edge.
The back 6-8 feet are shot and the front 6-7 feet are shot so not the WHOLE thing but enough to make it a pain.
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Old 11-29-2006, 07:14 PM   #18
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This was taken a couple of days ago and Ive since removed a center section but there was no edge left to salvage. The rest of the corners are more or less there but Im not sure if I will have anything left once I get it out.
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Old 11-29-2006, 08:50 PM   #19
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I had pretty good success with my front half shell on replacement by putting a 4x8 sheet under the frame and tracing the curve on the outside. Cut it with a jigsaw and slid it under. came out pretty good.
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Old 12-02-2006, 02:46 PM   #20
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Don't do this

a couple of thoughts, after replacing my floor, 3/4 of the whole thing from front to just before the bath

-take measurements at the floor to make sure the shell goes back in the same shape. Sounds dumb, but the shell can flex, and, well, it happens.

-I used marine ply, nominal 3/4" thick. I sealed it afterward with a two part expoxy sealant because I was still having problems with leaks, and the new floor was getting wet.

-since the floor is integral to the structure, that is, securing the shell of the thing to the frame, I would suggest replacing more rather then less. Sounds ugly, but my experience was that the body flexes and rivets pop if the floor isn't stiff enough.

Advantech sounds cool, impregnated with Phenolic resins... I always specify plywood rather then OSB at the recommendation of two engineers that I use, because OSB doesn't tolerate water as well as ply.

Good luck

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