Rear to center bath

[2002sheds]

Hi Doug,
I have an old Coleman Mach 3 in ours, but I will bet that the shroud is similar. A 3-D printed version sounds great !

Any thoughts on the tank pictured in my post above? I am guessing that, at the very least, the belly pan would need to drop down to cover it, as it does for the rear tank.

Hope you are having a great Memorial Day weekend!


Thanks,
David

[Indy_Air]

Hi guys, I suppose I forgot to mention that we lifted our frame 4in. I wanted to go 3" but we already had the material to do it. This allowed us to install the larger water and waste tanks with no clearance issues. Here is a link https://www.classacustoms.com/38-Gal...ANK_p_455.html


The tank you're looking at seems to work better with the sideways mount over the axles. Just make sure you have the clearance to drop the outlet below your main frame rails. So there will be a minimum of 5" from the bottom of your sub-floor to the top of the tank outlet. Maybe if it doesnt clear, you can turn it 90's and angle it with some slope to get it under the rails.


To get the belly pan to wrap over the tanks, we extended the same lift material forward and backward of the axles. Adding an angled cut to keep the "aerodynamic" feel. The waste outlets will tie together and come out a hole in that additional c channel.



I actually didn't do any digging into the smaller a/c shroud. The g/f wanted a bluetooth controlled one, so I just went with what she ordered. I have a 3d printer, but it only goes up to maybe a foot wide... I guess if you designed one in two piece and attached them together it would be worth a shot. I have seen people get creative in making that midbath wall go out further. One had a recess at the top of the wall so the air can still move. But the look wasn't appealing to us.


The next thing I'm going to start looking into is reducing the width of the wheel well. I think the out riggers are 14-3/8" or something close. But the tire only comes in maybe 8-10" from the outer end. I've left my subfloor longer, only cutting away what I absolutely needed to. If I make way to protect it from the bottom, maybe sealing it from my frame to the well. I can gain a few inches of floor space/ shower pan room. Doesnt change the toilet clearance issues for your shoulder though. I'm 5'9 150, So I won't have an issues. But I know some guys that wouldnt be as comfortable.


Shane

[SuzyHomemakr]

Originally Posted by Indy_Air

The next thing I'm going to start looking into is reducing the width of the wheel well. I think the out riggers are 14-3/8" or something close. But the tire only comes in maybe 8-10" from the outer end. I've left my subfloor longer, only cutting away what I absolutely needed to. If I make way to protect it from the bottom, maybe sealing it from my frame to the well. I can gain a few inches of floor space/ shower pan room. Doesnt change the toilet clearance issues for your shoulder though. I'm 5'9 150, So I won't have an issues. But I know some guys that wouldnt be as comfortable.

Wow, I dunno about reducing the wheels wells... I've had tires explode, and basically blow through the sheet metal. I want as much room as possible for the tire shreds to flap around. Also, it seems like when I changed the tires, I needed the extra width to be able to slant the tire to get it out of the wheel well. It wasn't loose...

[Bermshot]

I did this to our 31' Sovereign 10 years ago and it has worked out great for us. I did everything I was told not to do and it has held up. I had already stripped the trailer down as it had been used as a Rodent Sanctuary. If you look at my profile you can see the work done. If we have a guest they can access the bathroom without having to brush by us and vice versa. I either found or had made gray and black tanks that I could get between the frame rails and axles, then plumbed in a new dump valve to the drivers side behind the wheel. That is the only flaw I had as it was damaged when a tire tread delaminated early. I used PEX for the hot/cold lines. Used a cut down shower pan and built a glass shower on it. Used real tile for the floor and made a granite top over an antique table. Built some closets and a sitting/dressing area on the opposite wall. [IMG][/IMG]

[Deluxe21]

I did the center bath conversion several years ago and have loved it. My wife and I very rarely used the bathroom and felt it took up to much space. We were only able to make a small wet bathroom because of a window in the way but have found it to be just fine. When doing it we tried to reuse as much as possible and we wanted rid of the two singles for one small double in the rear. I kept the original above floor black tank which ended up partly in the bathroom and also under the bed. The original sink and drawers were installed in a new counter area next to the bathroom.

[rburditt]

Originally Posted by Deluxe21

I did the center bath conversion several years ago and have loved it. My wife and I very rarely used the bathroom and felt it took up to much space. We were only able to make a small wet bathroom because of a window in the way but have found it to be just fine. When doing it we tried to reuse as much as possible and we wanted rid of the two singles for one small double in the rear. I kept the original above floor black tank which ended up partly in the bathroom and also under the bed. The original sink and drawers were installed in a new counter area next to the bathroom.
Attachment 368930

What are the dimensions of your new bathroom? Do you have additional pics?

Thanks!

[Glenritas]

Originally Posted by SuzyHomemakr

My 1/4" thick wall is 3" away from the edge of the AC shroud. That gives me a bathroom that an average ( 190 lbs, 5'10") guy can wave his arms around while hand-showering. No jumping-jacks or ballroom dancing, however.

That shroud is an aerodynamic nightmare internally, I don't think that Dometic would put themselves out to actually design a nice one, much less one that took up less space. Even with its side flaps closed, air leaks out and chills the side walls. Say, that would be a good 3D print project!

I had the Dometic a/c in my tradewind , it was great making the overhead cabinets into ice boxes , it blows to the rear sides and down great . But the design of the return air blocks the air flow to the front to almost nothing , unfortunately our living room is in the front .

I replaced the Dometic with a Coleman Mach 8 it blows front and rear and is quieter then the Dometic and has a lower profile on the roof , only 8” .

[ShawnCowles]

Originally Posted by 2002sheds

Hi All,
I am inspired by the work that Doug has already done and Shane is doing! Based on the sketch that Shane provided (and going with the idea that the frame on our Ambassador is similar in the axles area), I think I can install a black tank between the frame cross members that run back and forth between the rear-most wheels (90 degrees clockwise compared to Shane's drawing).

The tank I am considering is shown below. I could install 2 90's in order to route the drain pipe out past the tire.

My main concern is that the tank is 8 inches tall at its tallest, but this area of the frame already has built up flanges. Hopefully, I would be able to provide some protection for it. It would still be above the axles, in any case.

Maybe it could work? I would still keep the current black water tank at the rear and convert it to grey water.

Thoughts?


Thanks,
David

HI @2002sheds ,
I am the install of new tanks phase in my 31', 1971 Sovereign.
I was wondering how the tank you posted here is working out.
Cheers, Shawn

[2002sheds]

Hi Shawn,
I don't want to send this thread any further off than I already have, so I am sending a Private Message to you.


Thanks,
David