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11-24-2009, 11:54 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
1977 31' Sovereign
Abbotsford
, British Columbia
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 11
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Rear Floor Replacement, Whats This?
while tearing out the rear floor in my trailer found this very rusted piece of steel. it was at one point bolted to the frame. i was able to just pull it out. this floor had been replaced before, although totaly wrong. is this piece factory? Or did someone just stuff it in there? if i need this piece i will make one from stainless. I just dont know why I might need it. it was never attached to the skin in any way.thanks for reading this.
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11-25-2009, 06:25 AM
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#2
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Silver Mist
Currently Looking...
Riverhead
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,011
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I didn't have it!
__________________
Bob
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11-25-2009, 06:39 AM
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#3
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Just an old timer...
2004 22' Interstate
Tipton
, Iowa
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,760
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I believe that is a reinforcing bar that was added to later '70s trailers to stop the rear-end separation problem that had been found in the earlier trailers; especially those with rear baths. If it's rusted to the point that it's not adding structure any longer, it could stand to be replaced, but I wouldn't just pitch it.
Roger
__________________
havin' to fix my broken Airstreams since 1987...
AIR 2053 Current: 2004 Airstream Interstate "B-Van" T1N DODGE Sprinter
Former Airstreams: 1953 Flying Cloud, 1957 Overlander, 1961 Bambi, 1970 Safari Special, 1978 Argosy Minuet, 1985 325 Moho, 1994 Limited 34' Two-door, 1994 B190 "B-Van"
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11-25-2009, 06:40 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1977 27' Overlander
1973 27' Overlander
1963 19' Globetrotter
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,259
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That basically holds the back of the trailer on ,it should be riveted to the alum. and bolted to the floor .If it is in very bad shape,have someone bend you a new one.
Dave
85MH345 types faster than me.
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11-25-2009, 06:49 AM
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#5
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4 Rivet Member
1971 23' Safari
Groveport
, Ohio
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 279
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Hello, My 71 had it and here are a few pics that may help when I replaced mine. Robert
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11-25-2009, 06:58 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,986
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Little Girl ('71 Sovereign) also had that piece of metal. She had a rear end repair done at some point long ago, so I’m not sure if that was added then or if it was original. It was also really rusty, so I replaced it with a piece of ~1/8” thick aluminum I bent to the correct angle. I also have two rows of rivets holding he shell to this new piece, instead of the original one row. I plan on adding a third row of rivets in the Spring, along with two more rows of rivets in the corresponding front hold down plate.
Chris
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11-25-2009, 07:11 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1973 31' Sovereign
Danielsville
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 904
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That is your rear hold down plate and yes you need it.
It is factory and is in place to hold the shell down to the floor/frame in the rear, where the highest levels of stress will be experienced (most critical in longer units like yours).
If it is unsalvageable, as advised above, have another one made. It is very important in holding things together and can be assisted with additional hold down points outside the main frame rails in keeping the rear joint (shell/floor/frame) tightly held together.
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11-25-2009, 07:22 AM
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#8
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
.
, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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A simple piece of angle iron will suffice for a replacement part. It's cheap, strong, and already bent.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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11-25-2009, 07:28 AM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
1977 31' Sovereign
Severna Park
, Maryland
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 103
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Nice job on the frame...looks great!!!
I'll be replacing the rear floor section in mine over the weekend. I'll have to look and see if I have one as well...I have a center bath though?
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11-25-2009, 08:31 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,527
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I replaced the steel angle with a formed piece of .063 2024-T3. The way that it was installed from Airstream, IMHO, accomplished nothing, other then beefing up the bottom of the "C" channel. My new piece runs behind the vertical ribs and under the plywood. I also ran it higher up on the skin and installed another real row of rivets. originally there was only about 8 rivets into the vertical legs. I also replaced the rear skin with .050 2024-T3
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11-25-2009, 10:28 AM
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#11
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1 Rivet Member
1977 31' Sovereign
Abbotsford
, British Columbia
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 11
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thanks!!!
wow thanks all for the quick and informative replies! So I will replace.
When I pulled all this apart the rear c channel was rotten. Found a replacement at out of doors mart, but it has the extra j section on the bottom. Now im wondering how to get it all back together. The new rear floor bow should be here in a week Rod
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11-25-2009, 02:38 PM
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#12
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1 Rivet Member
1997 34' Limited
jesup
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 9
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in process of replacing rear floor on my 82 limited.. angle piece is needed. be aware that leaks originated from poor seal at base of shell and rear bumper plate. caught it when floor out and rain storm. another hint. add cross bracing every 18" to keep floor from sagging between factory bracing.
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11-25-2009, 06:17 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,177
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Silverslug, You can cut off the J channel with a carbide tipped tablesaw blade, or a jigsaw, in a pinch.
Please wear safety glasses and a face shield when cutting metal with a power saw!
Rich the Viking
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11-25-2009, 06:28 PM
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#14
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4 Rivet Member
1971 23' Safari
Groveport
, Ohio
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 279
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Hi Silverslug, Just a note that angle is not 90 degrees as store bought angle is. At least mine was not for a proper fit. I had mine bent by a buddy's shop. Robert
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