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Old 03-20-2008, 07:26 PM   #21
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You can use Olympic and Pop type rivits...

You do not necessarily need to used bucked rivets to do your repairs. Especially for the inner attachments. The outer skin can be riveted with Olympic style rivits that are like pop rivets in that their stem is pulled out from the outside. The interior rivets are mostly standard 1/8" aluminum pop rivets available at most any hardware stores and the big box stores. One of the better purchases that I made was to buy a pnuematic pop rivet gun from Harbor Freight. Check out the following:

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Do a search for Olympic to find out more about this type of rivet.

Malcolm
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Old 03-20-2008, 09:08 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
Reflective foil works by blocking the flow of radiant energy. Radiant energy is what you feel when you stand out in the sunshine. Something like 85% of the heat that is lost through the walls during the winter is of type radiant. The number is more like 95% through the roof. Foil type insulation is most effective when it is installed with an air gap on both sides. Some tests that I have done indicate that the foil does a better job than the 1-1/2" of fiberglass insulation that was stock in our Airstreams. There are other tests being done now too. Take a look at the following threads:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f4/i...lts-13953.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...sts-40442.html

The following thread has some tips and tricks that I used for foil insulation installation:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...cks-30196.html

Malcolm
Thanks.
That's a lot of information!! I do believe that I am going to do the foil insulation in one form or another. I won't be getting to it until this summer. I will be gone for a couple months for work starting at the end of this month, so I'm sure when I get back to it, there will be even more info. I'm pretty curious about the van that was insulated with the paint and foil process in one of the threads.

Shell is coming off this weekend. I have all new sheets of marine plywood, por 15, and a couple new outriggers, so I'm ready to get moving again.
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Old 03-20-2008, 09:18 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
You do not necessarily need to used bucked rivets to do your repairs. Especially for the inner attachments. The outer skin can be riveted with Olympic style rivits that are like pop rivets in that their stem is pulled out from the outside. The interior rivets are mostly standard 1/8" aluminum pop rivets available at most any hardware stores and the big box stores. One of the better purchases that I made was to buy a pnuematic pop rivet gun from Harbor Freight. Check out the following:

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Do a search for Olympic to find out more about this type of rivet.

Malcolm
gotta love Harbor freight! I plan on getting one of those once I start putting the inside back together.
I have some olympic rivets, I just figured that since I have it easily accessable, I might as well go a little further and put in original style rivets. there is one panel that was replaced using the olympic rivets, and there is a slight color difference on the rivets. (it looks like a bulls-eye. light on the outside and dark in the center.) and whoever installed the rivets didn't have the shaver and just filed or ground the rivets down.
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Old 03-21-2008, 09:19 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olielulu
gotta love Harbor freight! I plan on getting one of those once I start putting the inside back together.
I have some olympic rivets, I just figured that since I have it easily accessable, I might as well go a little further and put in original style rivets. there is one panel that was replaced using the olympic rivets, and there is a slight color difference on the rivets. (it looks like a bulls-eye. light on the outside and dark in the center.) and whoever installed the rivets didn't have the shaver and just filed or ground the rivets down.
Yeah, that shaver is expensive! Something like $200 for a uni-tasker that's not even powered. I've seen other posters say they use a Dremel-style cutoff tool, and then just polish the rivet, to get it to blend in. I haven't done it myself so I can't really comment.
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Old 03-22-2008, 04:30 PM   #25
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Cheaper rivet shaver alternative...

The following thread has a lot of discussion about rivets, shavers and etc. Check out my posts 25 and 52 for information about a less expensive type of shaver that I paid around $20 for.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...ols-13329.html

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Old 03-22-2008, 11:10 PM   #26
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The Split-up

It is officially in two big pieces now. I got the shell off with no problems, thanks to all the information on these forums. I found all the hidden rivets and cut them off from the inside with a cold chisel. I know, not the most graceful tool out there, but it does the job. My new riveting tools should be arriving this week. looking forward to ruining a bunch of rivets and aluminum trying to learn to use it correctly.

I have the shell sitting on 2x6's located directly under the c-channels that are attached to full ribs to insure that it doesn't buckle. I ended up putting two braces inside to keep the walls from spreading out, and also to allow a tie down point for my straps so that it won't blow away. I buried the posts for my supports as if I were building a deck (minus the concrete) then put in corner bracing. It looks a little overkill, but it gives me peace of mind.
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Old 03-22-2008, 11:13 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
The following thread has a lot of discussion about rivets, shavers and etc. Check out my posts 25 and 52 for information about a less expensive type of shaver that I paid around $20 for.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...ols-13329.html

Malcolm
The link on post 25 didn't work. I went to the companies web site and didn't find any rivet shavers there. is it similar to the one in post 24? $20 is definitely better than $200.
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Old 03-23-2008, 08:26 AM   #28
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You've done a ton of work in such a short time, nice going!
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Old 03-23-2008, 09:30 AM   #29
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I have used a Dremel tool to buff down the Olympic rivets, it works very well, is much less expensive that a shaver, and you can use it for other projects than just rivets. A good, multi-speed Dremel tool is around $100, and comes with a variety of attachments.
Our roof had a hole corroded in it where the tv antenna is, I covered the area with a fresh aluminum sheet, vulkemed the seams, potted the rivets with Vulkem, and installed a new antenna in place. Anybody that's standing on the roof can see it, but if they don't like the view, they can look somewhere else.
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Old 03-24-2008, 02:53 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olielulu
The link on post 25 didn't work. I went to the companies web site and didn't find any rivet shavers there. is it similar to the one in post 24? $20 is definitely better than $200.
Try this link to page 13 of the catalog.

Tools and Hardware,Page 13

You need two items:

1.) Microcounterstop (at the top of the page)
2.) Rivet shaver bit (fits into the microcounterstop

I would not be suprised to discover that the shaver bit itself is what is used in a more expensive shaver. You do have to have a high speed tool of some sort to drive the combination. The microcounterstop has the adjustability for depth and the shaver does the work. There are several types of tools that could drive the unit fast enough. Some sort of pnuematic driver or dremel type tool would work. Probably even a router or rotozip tool could work. I was able to do mine without any outriggers but I suppose a person could make up some sort of support if they wanted to. The microstop self centers around the rivet head by the way.

Malcolm
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Old 03-25-2008, 03:14 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olielulu
<snip> and also to allow a tie down point for my straps so that it won't blow away.
You mean like this?





More pictures

Hmmm...I wonder what ever happened to Jay and his trailer...

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Old 03-25-2008, 10:24 PM   #32
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wow

Now I think maybe I don't have it tied down enough. I could probably get a discount on tiedowns if I by them in a pack of 100!!!
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Old 03-30-2008, 01:57 PM   #33
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Insulation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Olielulu
Jim, how well did it work in the winter? That's my big concern. I'm thinking about using it along with some other insulation. Probably the blue Dow styrofoam.

Thanks, Mike
I haven't started insulating yet because I have a lot of work to do. I have to replace the bathroom floor and repair thr frame. There is a web site Foilinsulation.com Reflective Technology if you want more information about the bubble insulation. Jim
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Old 05-29-2008, 10:55 PM   #34
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back at it

Well, after being gone for two months, I have started back into the repairs. I got everything off the frame, and it is now at the sandblaster, and the POR15 is on the way. Luckily, the majority of corrosion was in the areas that I found when I first started this, and the frame is in pretty good condition.

while I was gone, I was walking through Dutch Harbor, Alaska and found this little airstream that someone is apparently living in full time. not the strap over the top holding it down.
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Old 08-03-2008, 10:29 PM   #35
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finally a little progress

After staring at my trailer and trying to think of things to do to it, I have finally made a lttle progress. the frame is sandblasted and Por-15'd. after sitting in the su for a wile the silver paint has turned a slightly greenish tinge.
I purchased a grey water tank, and installed hangers for 2. so I should have a total of about 50 gallons of grey water storage. the discharge will tee in with the black water directly behind the wheel well, with a valve for each right there also.
Hopefully I will be putting on the deck soon. I have been trying to find some metal to replace a section of the frame on the street side rear. Big surprise - this is a custom channel, so I will have to have a local sheet metal place make a section for me.
I also bought a rivet gun and some rivets and practiced bucking rivets by doing repairs to my fenders. I'm no expert at riveting yet. Andy made the suggestion to repair the fenders using some metal plates and vulkem to sandwich the bad sections. It appears to have worked pretty well although it doesn't look pretty. I think a side effect will be that the fenders will be a little more rigid, which should help to keep them from getting destroyed again. Thanks Andy.
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Old 06-28-2009, 11:24 AM   #36
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progress

Progress has been slow, but I have gotten somewhere since my last post. Work, rain (lots), too many projects, and lack of motivation have really been factors.
I finished putting on the new marine grade plywood sealed at all the edges with wood hardener, filled all the seams and bolt holes on the floor with bondo, then painted the entire floor with a coat of Perma-flex. It is used to seal plywood aquariums, so I figured it should keep water damage from happening too quickly.
The shell is back on and I am in the process of making it water tight. One of the previous owners really liked silicone RTV and put it on just about everything except the leaks. Reading all the forums, I decided to strip the plasticoat and start polishing it before I finish the waterproofing, so that I donít waterproof it, then strip my waterproofing off.
Installed a new air conditioner. It was a little scary cutting a large hole in the roof, but in the end it wasnít as bad as I thought. The air conditioner fit nicely and I actually cut 2 smaller holes and placed the air conditioner on top of a frame for support, them made 3 more supports out of cedar and placed between the longitudinal frames.
Installed 2 new dexter axles and new shocks. After reading all the threads on axles, I was a little torn between trusting my measurements and doing it the easy way. In the end, $$$ was the final determining factor. I cut the shock mounts off the old axles and welded them onto the new axles, and everything went very easily and quickly.
Both grey water tanks are installed, the blackwater tank is sitting in the trailer. (thanks Bullydogs Mom for the tank ordering info) Potable water tank is in place. I ordered a Garnet SEE-Level tank level indicator system to monitor all the tanks. Iím still going to keep the original system hooked up, but I needed to monitor the grey water level also.
Installed a new water heater, and purchased a new furnace. Iím in the process of determining if the refrigerator is in good enough shape to last a couple years. It works on 120 V, but I havenít run it on gas yet.
At least Iím still moving forward.
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Old 06-28-2009, 11:33 AM   #37
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more pictures of the progress, and my "new" tow vehicle.
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Old 06-28-2009, 02:22 PM   #38
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Excellent work. I like the plywood coating.

How's Port Orchard doing nowadays? I spent 8 years in the Bremerton/Silverdale area when I was in the Navy in the 1980s.
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Old 06-28-2009, 03:43 PM   #39
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Wow you are moving along. Looks great.

Annette

P.S> Hubby wants to know what year is the truck?
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Old 06-28-2009, 08:23 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mello mike View Post
Excellent work. I like the plywood coating.

How's Port Orchard doing nowadays? I spent 8 years in the Bremerton/Silverdale area when I was in the Navy in the 1980s.
The whole area is growing pretty quickly. I live outside of town, and in the last few years, town has been moving closer to me.


Quote:
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P.S> Hubby wants to know what year is the truck?
It's a 1964 f100. bought it for $500 and it runs great.
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