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Old 12-01-2004, 02:55 PM   #1
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Question Rear Floor Repair

I have a dilemma? a 12" section of the floor is damaged from a seam leak. I have removed all the damaged and punky area. I need to splice in a 12" X the width of the unit. After this is done I want to install new flooring, Pergo or similar. I am thinking of installing a sub floor, however if I do this under the shower and toilet that will change the heights and the removed pieces will not line back up. Any suggestions????
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Old 12-01-2004, 03:40 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by balrgn
I have a dilemma? a 12" section of the floor is damaged from a seam leak. I have removed all the damaged and punky area. I need to splice in a 12" X the width of the unit. After this is done I want to install new flooring, Pergo or similar. I am thinking of installing a sub floor, however if I do this under the shower and toilet that will change the heights and the removed pieces will not line back up. Any suggestions????
It is unclear by your description what it is exactly you are meaning by the term subfloor.
I can only guess you are wanting to put down another sheet of plywood on top of the existing. If this is correct, then just dont put it under the tub area, but only on the area of the floor that remains exposed after installation of all fixtures.
Instead of doing this though, why not just repair it correctly? It sounds as if you have everything out, and if that is so, you have done most all the hard work already.
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Old 12-01-2004, 04:24 PM   #3
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Floor repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by richardt
It is unclear by your description what it is exactly you are meaning by the term subfloor.
I can only guess you are wanting to put down another sheet of plywood on top of the existing. If this is correct, then just dont put it under the tub area, but only on the area of the floor that remains exposed after installation of all fixtures.
Instead of doing this though, why not just repair it correctly? It sounds as if you have everything out, and if that is so, you have done most all the hard work already.
Re-insalling the fixtures was my first choice, and puting down plywood in the open area is an option. The previous owner has carpeted the camper, but did not notice the damage under the bath counter. Under the carpet is 1/2" plywood glued and screwed in.
http://home.comcast.net/~balrgn/Airstream/DSC02305.jpg
If you mean "correctly" by removing all the floor in the camper, The plywood that was not affected is in great shape and very solid. The only area I have (currently) torn up is the bath.
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Old 12-01-2004, 04:35 PM   #4
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Correct is a relative term some times.
Since the entire camper already has a modified floor surface, I did not mean to suggest that I would take it out!


I am sure you plan to but wanted to suggest:
Clean with bleach the walls now exposed, in the photo they appear to be very dirty and perhaps have some mold, and treat the exposed frame with a rust converter and paint.
Also have you found the source of th leak that damaged the wood in the first place?
It would be a shame to have it happen again.
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Old 12-01-2004, 05:44 PM   #5
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Cool Rear Floor repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by richardt
Correct is a relative term some times.
Since the entire camper already has a modified floor surface, I did not mean to suggest that I would take it out!


I am sure you plan to but wanted to suggest:
Clean with bleach the walls now exposed, in the photo they appear to be very dirty and perhaps have some mold, and treat the exposed frame with a rust converter and paint.
Also have you found the source of th leak that damaged the wood in the first place?
It would be a shame to have it happen again.
Yes there is some mold, not bad enough to stain. I just ordered Metal-Ready by POR 15 Rust inhibitor. I am working on replacing a section of frame on each side, before I put the floor back in. It was raining quite heavy here today, I located the leak. It is from the band that is above the bumper. Looks like some riviets popped and water has a pathway in. No Insulation wetted.

I keep a running web page of the progress.
http://home.comcast.net/~balrgn/Airs...oject_2004.htm
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Old 12-01-2004, 05:51 PM   #6
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Wow great website! Very very well done.
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Old 12-01-2004, 06:17 PM   #7
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So the plywood under the shell just came out. Are the elevator bolts out. Typically it is necessary to take the lower interior panel off to repair the floor on the edge like you have. This is to bolt it to the frame. There are numberous discussions of these issue and you can find several opinions and creative options in the floor repair sub forum. Looks like you will need the gluing a splint technique. I think you will have to take off the lower panels also.
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Old 12-02-2004, 08:27 AM   #8
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me again....I have the exact same issue. But I've already done a pergo floor. there's no need for a "sub floor"...i.e. second layer of plywood on top of the plywood that airstream installed. you can pergo right on top of it. One great thing about the pergo "floating floor" is that it can be removed should you ever suspect a leak in the future...then it can be put right back in place, without damage. ANYway...take a look at my photo album for pics. my trailer is laid out just like yours, at least in the bath area. I just ran the pergo right in there.
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Old 12-02-2004, 10:13 AM   #9
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by Over59
So the plywood under the shell just came out. Are the elevator bolts out. Typically it is necessary to take the lower interior panel off to repair the floor on the edge like you have. This is to bolt it to the frame. There are numberous discussions of these issue and you can find several opinions and creative options in the floor repair sub forum. Looks like you will need the gluing a splint technique. I think you will have to take off the lower panels also.
The piece I need to Put in is thin enough in width I may cut slots into the plywood where those bolts are. The existing ones are severly corroded but solid. That's why my first thought was to continue the sub floor to the end to add stiffness to the new section. BUT, that changes all the heights. Darned if you do darned if you don't. My hobby is restoration, I've done a '62 Impala and '58 Case front end loader bact to original.
http://home.comcast.net/~balrgn/Camp...or/Tractor.htm
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Old 12-02-2004, 10:49 AM   #10
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for my "temporary" repair that I did just to get me through the last season without falling through whilst using the throne , I cut slots so I could jam some 6" wide pieces through, then spliced them to the good part of the floor w/ some 4" wide strips (glue n screw). Ultimately, though, I'd like to put a solid piece in, and bolt itto the frame properly...which will require removal of the lower wall panels on the inside.

You've already done most of the hard part....why not go all the way?

I think you'll be fine if you just splice the new piece to the old from underneath, using a 4" wide piece of ply, glued and screwed, all along the seam. This is how airstream says to do it. If you want, you could use a 2' wide piece, filling the entire cavity in the framework down there. Screwed in from below, it'll more than do the job, without affecting the interior of the trailer.
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Old 12-02-2004, 02:54 PM   #11
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Rear Floor repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
for my "temporary" repair that I did just to get me through the last season without falling through whilst using the throne , I cut slots so I could jam some 6" wide pieces through, then spliced them to the good part of the floor w/ some 4" wide strips (glue n screw). Ultimately, though, I'd like to put a solid piece in, and bolt itto the frame properly...which will require removal of the lower wall panels on the inside.

You've already done most of the hard part....why not go all the way?

I think you'll be fine if you just splice the new piece to the old from underneath, using a 4" wide piece of ply, glued and screwed, all along the seam. This is how airstream says to do it. If you want, you could use a 2' wide piece, filling the entire cavity in the framework down there. Screwed in from below, it'll more than do the job, without affecting the interior of the trailer.
Nice pics, Is the Pergo 18"X18" or 6" wide? I like the floor, that is what I am planning. Not sure why I would want to take the rear panel off? The bolts that are there are solid. It would be a task to remove them. But I'll look at the area again. I'll be posing more pics as I go. I may run a new cross memeber along the back to stiffen it up.
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Old 12-02-2004, 03:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by balrgn
Nice pics, Is the Pergo 18"X18" or 6" wide? .
the planks are actually about 7" wide...don't remember exactly...something odd, though. (its actually a metric sizing). this stuff came from HD; at the time, it was the best compliment to the dark '70's interiors, imo. They keep coming out with more and more colors/styles, so there may be something even better color-wise.

Quote:
Originally Posted by balrgn
Not sure why I would want to take the rear panel off? The bolts that are there are solid. It would be a task to remove them. But I'll look at the area again. I'll be posing more pics as I go. I may run a new cross memeber along the back to stiffen it up.
If you want to remove the existing bolts and replace them, you'll need to remove the interior alluminum skin to get at them. or at least "the heads". there is a "c-channel" that sits on the outer perimeter of the floor. Bolts go through this, through the plywood below, and through the frame. the outer skin is riveted to the outside of the channel; the inner skin to the inside of it.
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Old 12-02-2004, 07:05 PM   #13
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Rear Floor repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
the planks are actually about 7" wide...don't remember exactly...something odd, though. (its actually a metric sizing). this stuff came from HD; at the time, it was the best compliment to the dark '70's interiors, imo. They keep coming out with more and more colors/styles, so there may be something even better color-wise.



If you want to remove the existing bolts and replace them, you'll need to remove the interior alluminum skin to get at them. or at least "the heads". there is a "c-channel" that sits on the outer perimeter of the floor. Bolts go through this, through the plywood below, and through the frame. the outer skin is riveted to the outside of the channel; the inner skin to the inside of it.
I was in HD last weekend looking at that. May go that way, on the fence at this point. I'll look at the bolting in the AM. Have the template cut for the replacement piece. Slow going this time of year ...

So the Pergo in the bath worked for you, no moisture issues?
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Old 12-03-2004, 09:01 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by balrgn
I was in HD last weekend looking at that. May go that way, on the fence at this point. I'll look at the bolting in the AM. Have the template cut for the replacement piece. Slow going this time of year ...

So the Pergo in the bath worked for you, no moisture issues?

SAVE THE TEMPLATE!

I had one problem in the bath...I'm not even certain it was a "moisture" problem, but what I suspect happened was that I forgot to empty all the water from the toilet bowl one time, and it splashed out on the floor, because that's where the problem was: right in front of the toilet. I never found any standing water or dampness or anything, so this is just a guess. But one of the joints came apart, and on examination, it appeared that the tounge on one of the planks swelled up. no big deal, though. the bathroom floor consists of 4 1-foot long planks, so I just popped out the damaged one, cut a new one from leftovers that I saved, and popped it back in. took all of 5 minutes to fix.

I siliconed around the shower stall, and am carefull to clean up thoroughly after a shower...that area has never been a problem.

I was thinking of doing vinyl for the bathroom floor, but the way the bath fixtures are made with the flanged edges, I couldn't figure out a good way to trim them out. Airstream didn't care about that, as they just put carpet, and that conceals the edges. I had to kind of futz with the pergo trim pieces to get them to cover over the edges of the tank cover and shower stall, and still fit the flooring.
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Old 12-04-2004, 02:42 PM   #15
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Cool Rear Floor repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
SAVE THE TEMPLATE!

I had one problem in the bath...I'm not even certain it was a "moisture" problem, but what I suspect happened was that I forgot to empty all the water from the toilet bowl one time, and it splashed out on the floor, because that's where the problem was: right in front of the toilet. I never found any standing water or dampness or anything, so this is just a guess. But one of the joints came apart, and on examination, it appeared that the tounge on one of the planks swelled up. no big deal, though. the bathroom floor consists of 4 1-foot long planks, so I just popped out the damaged one, cut a new one from leftovers that I saved, and popped it back in. took all of 5 minutes to fix.

I siliconed around the shower stall, and am carefull to clean up thoroughly after a shower...that area has never been a problem.

I was thinking of doing vinyl for the bathroom floor, but the way the bath fixtures are made with the flanged edges, I couldn't figure out a good way to trim them out. Airstream didn't care about that, as they just put carpet, and that conceals the edges. I had to kind of futz with the pergo trim pieces to get them to cover over the edges of the tank cover and shower stall, and still fit the flooring.
Floor repair is on hold. Found some problems with the frame that needs replacing. Called a welder (friend) itís going to the shop to replace 2 sections and run braces. I looked at your floor, nice job. That is the way I'm going, however, I think I'll do vinyl. Lucky I have all winter!
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Old 12-05-2004, 06:06 AM   #16
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Old 12-08-2004, 06:41 AM   #17
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Balrgn, the symptoms of your leak sure sound like...

Quote:
Originally Posted by balrgn
It was raining quite heavy here today, I located the leak. It is from the band that is above the bumper. Looks like some riviets popped and water has a pathway in. No Insulation wetted.
...the infamous rear end separation problem inherent in 70's era Airstreams. You may want to research this by searching on this site and others. You can confirm this problem by having somebody stand on your rear bumper and by having them jump a few times. If the bumper/storage area moves downward while the rest of the trailer remains stationary, then you have the problem and need to get it fixed. I recently had this problem fixed by the folks at Oasis RV in Tucson. Expensive but they did the job right.
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Old 12-08-2004, 06:57 AM   #18
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How far back did they go?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mello mike
...I recently had this problem fixed by the folks at Oasis RV in Tucson. Expensive but they did the job right.


Mike:

Just wondering:

- how far back did Oasis cut out the floor for replacement?

- "about" how much was the repair - not asking for an exact figure, just an order of magnitude.


I know that the "first" (curved) panel removal will get you back about 3', and there is a lateral "seam" (plywood floor) about 1' forward of the curved panel endpoint. - Did Oasis make the repair at the lateral seam?

Thanks,
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Old 12-08-2004, 08:53 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87MH
Mike:

Just wondering:

- how far back did Oasis cut out the floor for replacement?

- "about" how much was the repair - not asking for an exact figure, just an order of magnitude.


I know that the "first" (curved) panel removal will get you back about 3', and there is a lateral "seam" (plywood floor) about 1' forward of the curved panel endpoint. - Did Oasis make the repair at the lateral seam?

Thanks,
The entire repair with "elephant ears" was about $1,000. The floor wasn't too bad they only had to replace about a foot. The rear is rock solid now and looks great.
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Old 12-08-2004, 04:12 PM   #20
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Angry

Quote:
Originally Posted by mello mike
...the infamous rear end separation problem inherent in 70's era Airstreams. You may want to research this by searching on this site and others. You can confirm this problem by having somebody stand on your rear bumper and by having them jump a few times. If the bumper/storage area moves downward while the rest of the trailer remains stationary, then you have the problem and need to get it fixed. I recently had this problem fixed by the folks at Oasis RV in Tucson. Expensive but they did the job right.
From what is removed I can see to the wheel wells along the frame. I am going to the Weld shop Saturday, this week to have 2 feet, each side cut out and replaced. The hard part looks to be where the waste pipe exits the frame.
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