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05-26-2009, 08:26 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1969 27' Overlander
Lehi
, Utah
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 35
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Rear Floor Channel Question
So I am about to walk a welder Through "freshening up my frame" before I start putting the bathroom back together. Let's see if I can articulate this: Moving forward from the bumper, there is a piece of 3/4X1 1/2 channel that runs from frame to frame, and then the wooden floor. On top of that channel is about a 5" wide piece of aluminum running from frame to frame. On top of that, running the length of the rear access hinge is another piece of angle and then the body.
I guess I should just have asked how to post pics, I have confused myself. My question, if anyone is still following is; is that piece of angle above the floor the way it should go back together?
I will try and learn how to post pics before I ask about the strange hole in the rear of my waste tank pan!
Thanks
Clay
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05-26-2009, 09:34 PM
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#2
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2 Rivet Member
1969 27' Overlander
Lehi
, Utah
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 35
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is this how it works? yea that angle Just under the hinge? does it belong?
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06-19-2009, 04:36 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1958 26' Overlander
Mesa
, Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,742
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Yikes!! That's a bad case of rear end separation.
Been there, done that. Got the T-Shirt, unfortunately.
__________________
1958 Overlander
2011 Wolf Creek 850N TC
2011 Ford F-250 Crewcab (6.2L), 3.73RE
WBCCI #5661/AIR #5661/TAC # AZ-6
4CU 1st VP
My '58 Overlander Restoration and Travel Blog:
https://mellomikesairstreams.blogspot.com/
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06-20-2009, 09:00 AM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member
1969 27' Overlander
Lehi
, Utah
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 35
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I still don't how it is supposed to go back together. nothing is sagging but the way it was the wood floor was exposed. I have got a piece of aluminum angle to cover the floor.
we will see,
Clay
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06-20-2009, 11:48 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1973 31' Sovereign
Danielsville
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 904
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Clay,
The piece of angle you're referring to is the rear hold-down plate and the plywood floor fits between it and the rear floor channel. (In the picture, I incorrectly refer to it as "C" channel.)
The 5" piece of aluminum is the flashing that lies below it. I think if it's in the way, you can pull it out (couple of rivets) and re-install it once the floor is in.
The separation will be remedied once the new floor section is in place and all bolts are installed and tightened. Andy R of Inland recommends additional hold down points outboard of the main frame rails as well to add increased rear holding strength. (Attach 2" angle off main frame rail and run bolt through angle, floor, and curved floor channel).
From the factory, your only hold down points are on either main frame rail wiith the 5/16" or 3/8" bold passing through the a steel hold down, floor channel, plywood floor, and main frame rail (in that order).
When tying it all back together with new floor, be sure both main hold down points are lined up. (The shell can shift from side to side, even up to 2" or so)
See my pics if it helps any.
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06-20-2009, 11:51 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClayC
My question, if anyone is still following is; is that piece of angle above the floor the way it should go back together?
Thanks
Clay
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Absolutely not!!!!
There are many posts of how to correct rear end separation on this Forums.
A welder is needed "after" you remove the rear quarter panels, and the rear plate, and correcting the cracks in the rear floor channel.
If the floor is rotted, it should be replaced.
Adding steel brackets to the outside of the frame, will add additional hold down strength.
The elephant ear fix?? A short term fix at best.
Putting the trailer back together as it was built, "WILL NOT" prevent the same thing from happening again.
Upgrading is the answer to a permanent fix.
etc, etc.
Andy
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06-20-2009, 05:39 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1973 31' Sovereign
Danielsville
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 904
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Clay,
You need to get the banana wrap corners out of the way and clean out ALL of the rotted wood floor. I pulled the rear hold down plate (had to drill out a few rivets) and "reconditioned" it with OSPHO (rust treatment) and some POR or equivalent. You might need it out of the way anyway if you're going to TIG the floor channel. Remember the new floor slides in between it and the bottom of the floor channel.
You should avoid towing it at this point if at all possible unless you insert spacers (plywood) and tie down the rear end before moving it.
After the welding/frame conditioning is complete.....
The floor can be replaced with one piece but I highly recommend using a piece of luan as a pattern to get it absolutely right before cutting the plywood.
Good luck!
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06-22-2009, 11:48 AM
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#8
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2 Rivet Member
1969 27' Overlander
Lehi
, Utah
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 35
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so here is where I am At
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06-22-2009, 11:50 AM
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#9
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2 Rivet Member
1969 27' Overlander
Lehi
, Utah
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 35
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My wooden floor will bolt in between the new steel Chanel and the floor Chanel?
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06-22-2009, 11:51 AM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member
1969 27' Overlander
Lehi
, Utah
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 35
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sorry I forgot how I posted the last pics
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06-22-2009, 05:57 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford,
, Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,564
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Rear floor
Clay,
The new floor needs to go into the C-channel, not between it and the new steel angle iron. After the new floor is installed into the C-channel you can drill holes through the new steel and new floor and bolt everything together with 1/4 inch bolts. The bottom of the C-channel will be resting on the steel, not the wood.
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06-22-2009, 07:25 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1973 31' Sovereign
Danielsville
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 904
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Clay,
Check you PMs. I sent you a message
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