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Old 02-02-2004, 12:01 PM   #21
Rivet Master
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Inland RV Center, In's Avatar
Corona , California
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Newer frames are stronger than years ago.

Also, the method of holding the shell to the floor was changed many years ago.

Back then the floor channel as an example, was on top of the floor. That channel is now slid over the floor so that the channel is on top and on the bottom of the floor.

Rear end separations are a thing of the past, unless a coach has been grossly abused.

Lack of proper running gear balance, as an example, will not cause rear end separation as it did in the past. However, other damages can and will occur, when balancing is ignored.

Andy Rogozinski
Inland RV Center
Corona, CA
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Old 02-02-2004, 12:33 PM   #22
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, Minnesota
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Rear end separation

Quote: "Back then the floor channel as an example, was on top of the floor. That channel is now slid over the floor so that the channel is on top and on the bottom of the floor." -Andy at InlandRV

Please, for the benefit of those with older units, could someone post a picture or dimensions of the newer style channel?
Much appreciated.
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Old 02-02-2004, 02:54 PM   #23
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1972 31' Sovereign
, Ohio
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I see that we are saying running gear being improperly balanced. Is a great contributor to rear end separation and frames warping.

Therefore, my question is.

If you have disc brakes and still have these issues what is causing the separation? I still feel being improperly designed to hold the additional weight of their rear bath was the main reason.
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Old 02-02-2004, 05:07 PM   #24
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ok..just a few more questions...

1. Do i have to repalce the entire piece of plywood or just the rotted section??

2. is there anyway to replace the U-channel piece that runs around the rear of the airstream??

3. what type of rivots/rivot gun do i need to to replace the outer "finishing" rivots.
Brian Travnicek
31' Sovereign Land Yacht
Pulled by a 2001 Silver Dodge
2500 Truck with Cummins Diesel Power and a 4.10 rear end.
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Old 02-03-2004, 10:22 PM   #25
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1990 32' Excella
jonesboro , Arkansas
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rear floor

I would replace the whole rear section if your repair will cross the holding tank. I did one and only replaced the rear 24" and I could not get the Edges to meet well enough due to not having any support under it and no room to put braces under them due to the tank . I had to do that one twice.

The u channel may not need to be replaced . If the problem is the frame bolts are pulling thru the channel. You can make a tracing of the channel and take it to a local metal shop they can cut you a piece of 1/4 thick flat stock to fit inside of the channel .If you have access to a jig saw and a grinder you can cut your own piece. Just go to a scrap metal recycler and buy some aluminum flet stock and cut your own. Some metal shos can also make the channel for you also.

As for the rivets I used 1/8 and 3/16" rivets on the trim and inside and olympic rivets on the exterior skin. I got the plain rivets from my local industrial supply house and my olympic rivets from inland rv.

I did my repairs by removing the inside rivets for about 12" up the walls and did not cut any holes in the exterior skin.
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