Rear End Separation Permanent Fix?

[dmand001]

Have a 73 sovereign, 31 ft. The rear end flooring was rotted out thus a 3/4" gap from frame to bottom of the upper shell C channel. Though both of the main 3/8" bolts at each corner of the rear were intact the plywood was gone, rotted out. The rear end technically didn't separate beyond the floor thickness of 3/4" but vibrates nontheless and a huge problem.

Here's my question, would it not fix these rear end problems permanently by using stainless or galvanized washers to the thickness of the plywood, 3/4", thru these 2 main corner bolts on the rear end w/ the rest of the rear end support staying the same? The floor will have to be drilled on these 2 corners to the diameter of these spacer washers. So,it's all metal on these 2 main supports, no wood sandwiched between. The dreaded separation issue is permanently fixed!

This I am planning on doing but want to have feedback as to it's feasabilty. thx in advance for any info.

[barts]

The rear attachment between the frame and the shell is more complex than that.... there's a bent steel angle plate caught between the frame and the plywood; the upper part of that is riveted between the C channel and the skin.

This plate is likely badly corroded, and the dissimilar metals (steel plate, aluminum shell & C channel & rivets) has likely led to poor integrity in all those components; most of the bolts between the frame, rear cross member and C channel have likely failed.

I would:

* remove the horizontal sheet that slides between the frame and the plywood to which the bumper compartment cover is hinged - this abomination is what wicks water into the confined space under the plywood and begins the corrosion problems. There must be a gap between the hinge and the body - the rear compartment gets wet anyway, and keeping the water out from under the plywood is critical.

* Replace that rear bent plate w/ a stainless one, and add an additional row of proper rivets to the skin. You'll of course need to
drill out the rivets holding the skin to the rear channel to do this if they're not corroded out already.

* replace all fasteners w/ stainless.

It's not too difficult, and most of it doesn't show - but it does mean removing the bottom rear interior skins - which can be difficult w/ those plastic bathrooms.

I'd be happy to take a look at it, or you're welcome to come by to look at ours - we're in Menlo Park :-)
- Bart

[exthemius]

I just sent you a PM with what our A/S tech did to fix ours. Please let me know if you need anymore information.

[loechli]

Originally Posted by exthemius

I just sent you a PM with what our A/S tech did to fix ours. Please let me know if you need anymore information.

Can you tell me what the fix was as well

[exthemius]

Originally Posted by loechli

Can you tell me what the fix was as well

Done.

[Breadbug]

Originally Posted by exthemius

I just sent you a PM with what our A/S tech did to fix ours. Please let me know if you need anymore information.

I'd be interested in that fix too. I've got the very same issue.

[perryg114]

That plate on the rear bumper is what I call a funnel plate. I am in the middle of replacing my rear floor and I plan on getting rid of that plate. The problem is the rubber sealing compound breaks down over time and corrosion plays a part. This area is hidden under the belly band on my trailer. I may get rid of the bumper storage compartment all together. The object here is to keep the water off the rear of the trailer. I will probably do something like a rear banana skin. The rear of the subfloor is very exposed in the corners. It is best to coat the new floor with some sort of waterproof coating. Something like epoxy or polyurathane so if it does get wet is will hold up better. The seal where the belly band is located needs to be very good and maintained. Another leak prone area is where the end caps meet the straight part of the trailer. There is a gap in the C-channel there that lets any leaks or condensation go right into the sub floor. I plan on doing something there like glue in a small section to bridge that gap.

You may or may not have to replace the bent steel plate at the back. Mine was rusted but turned out fine after some cleaning a coating with POR15. If you drill out the stock rivets put back bucked rivets not pop rivets. That area is a structural element and needs real rivets. Also the pink fiberglass acts as a sponge and rots your frame and sub floor. I got rid of it and am considering alternatives. Another thing the bumper compartment does is funnel any water than gets in there up under the belly skin where the pink stuff sucks it up. Pull the belly skins and check the frame.

It is best to leave hidden areas of the sub floor uncovered so you can inspect and it also allows it to dry out. I am going to attach my belly skins with screws so I can get under there ever so often and see if there are any problems.

Perry

[Della]

Originally Posted by exthemius

Done.

Quite a bit of time has lapsed, but I would really appreciate the "fix" you past on last year regarding the rear end subfloor replacement and rear storage hatch dysfunction.

Thanks, in advance;

Richard and Della
'73 Overlander 27'

[Della]

Originally Posted by barts

The rear attachment between the frame and the shell is more complex than that.... there's a bent steel angle plate caught between the frame and the plywood; the upper part of that is riveted between the C channel and the skin.

This plate is likely badly corroded, and the dissimilar metals (steel plate, aluminum shell & C channel & rivets) has likely led to poor integrity in all those components; most of the bolts between the frame, rear cross member and C channel have likely failed.

I would:

* remove the horizontal sheet that slides between the frame and the plywood to which the bumper compartment cover is hinged - this abomination is what wicks water into the confined space under the plywood and begins the corrosion problems. There must be a gap between the hinge and the body - the rear compartment gets wet anyway, and keeping the water out from under the plywood is critical.

* Replace that rear bent plate w/ a stainless one, and add an additional row of proper rivets to the skin. You'll of course need to
drill out the rivets holding the skin to the rear channel to do this if they're not corroded out already.

* replace all fasteners w/ stainless.

It's not too difficult, and most of it doesn't show - but it does mean removing the bottom rear interior skins - which can be difficult w/ those plastic bathrooms.

I'd be happy to take a look at it, or you're welcome to come by to look at ours - we're in Menlo Park :-)
- Bart

Bart;

This was the first time I had heard the sad truth regarding that bent plate assembly for the rear hatch. A friend and myself looked at that shortly ago and kept wondering why all those materials and why the obvious flaw in how water might travel inside in that area. I had not come up with an obvious fix and your entry nailed the problem. I still do not see what besides the vulkem or the likes, will keep water from flowing back in to the edges of the subfloor. Can you offer any more advice.

Thanks, in advance,
Richard and Della
'73 Overlander 27' (rear bath)

[exthemius]

Done as well.

[wahoonc]

I am considering replacing that flat piece of metal with a 90* angle piece that is turn out to use for the hinge fastening point. I am also going to coat the plywood with something that will keep it from rotting and/or absorbing water. I am in the process of hauling the whole rear end out of my 1975 rear bath. Only about the last 4" of the plywood is bad, but the tank support frame is pretty well trashed and the rear aluminum channel is in at least 3 pieces and needs to be rewelded. So out it all comes.

Aaron

[Stoney]

Originally Posted by exthemius

I just sent you a PM with what our A/S tech did to fix ours. Please let me know if you need anymore information.

Could u send the pic to my email so i can look how they did it please?

[68 TWind]

I coated the top and bottom of the new plywood I installed in the rear of my Trade Wind with 2 coats of West System epoxy resin. I coated in all along the edge and inward for 8 inches. This is a product used extensively to build and repair boats. I built a new cross member out of 2 in angle instead of flat stock. I notched the ends to the top of the angle would be flat with the rails and the ends would extend to the sides of the rails giving me a lot of surface to weld. After I welded it in place I painted it with several coats of rust proof paint from the Eastwood company (Por-15 would work just as well). This was to prevent the aluminum from touching the steel as much as possible. With the leaks fixed, the rear stays dry now and it should be good for many years of camping (a lot more than I'll be around doing the camping).

[Chuck]

Originally Posted by exthemius

I just sent you a PM with what our A/S tech did to fix ours. Please let me know if you need anymore information.

Why don't you just post the information here in the thread, and share it with the group?

What's the big secret??

[exthemius]

Yeah, Jason just asked me this earlier -- I suppose I could -- it's really no different than what Andy does in one of his threads. I can say there's no secret sauce or anything, just don't want to hear the gripes and negative comments usually associated with any fix that doesn't involve tearing out the entire bathroom to replace the floor -- I'm just not interested in a pissing match, I suppose

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by exthemius

Yeah, Jason just asked me this earlier -- I suppose I could -- it's really no different than what Andy does in one of his threads. I can say there's no secret sauce or anything, just don't want to hear the gripes and negative comments usually associated with any fix that doesn't involve tearing out the entire bathroom to replace the floor -- I'm just not interested in a pissing match, I suppose

I would be interested in seeing what you did, I chose to tear out the bathroom, along with the entire interior . I am upgrading plumbing, and with the extensive amount of welding that is going to be required wanted as much access as possible.

Just because some one does something a different way doesn't mean it is right or wrong, as long as the end results are acceptable.

Aaron

[Jamezo]

Originally Posted by exthemius

Yeah, Jason just asked me this earlier -- I suppose I could -- it's really no different than what Andy does in one of his threads. I can say there's no secret sauce or anything, just don't want to hear the gripes and negative comments usually associated with any fix that doesn't involve tearing out the entire bathroom to replace the floor -- I'm just not interested in a pissing match, I suppose

I can appreciate your point. Lots of opinions out there and the talent of expressing them tactfully is lost on a few folks. Can you please share the info with me as well? Thanks!

[Silverflames]

Originally Posted by exthemius

Yeah, Jason just asked me this earlier -- I suppose I could -- it's really no different than what Andy does in one of his threads. I can say there's no secret sauce or anything, just don't want to hear the gripes and negative comments usually associated with any fix that doesn't involve tearing out the entire bathroom to replace the floor -- I'm just not interested in a pissing match, I suppose

I'm getting ready to do the same job, and like you, I don't have the time right now to do a full floor job. I just want my frame back in place ! Any info you could provide would be great!!

[Luftstrom]

Hi Shawn:

Would you please pm me the info on what the tech did to fix the rear separation on your airstream ?

Thanks, Michael

[garthbf]

here is what I ended up doing to reattach. without gutting it.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...tml#post622064