Quick sub-floor question

[mwells4654]

I am ready to install the bathroom sub-floor but I am unsure where the big metal angle iron goes. I know it goes in the rear (because I removed it, lol) but does it go on top of the sub-flooring or below? My floor was all rotted out in the rear so I do not know exactly where it goes in relation to the plywood. I am going to get the plywood tomorrow and the epoxy for waterproofing the edge. Thanks for you help.

[SilverHoot]

A picture would sure help you to get help. I know there was a piece of angle iron that held the black tank/pan on mine.

[Over59]

Need picture.

[Birdwell57]

The one on my '78 Sovereign goes under the floor.

[Aerowood]

My 71 went under the floor and I routed out the bottom of the subfloor (.063) for clearance. I replaced my "angle iron" with a piece of .063 2024-T3

[mwells4654]

Here is a couple pictures - I put POR-15 on it then painted it aliuminum. I placed it inside close to where it will be installed.

[SilverHoot]

Different piece of angle than I was referring to.

[Minno]

That piece goes on top of the plywood and underneath the c-channel. It gets riveted to the rear shell, and is part of the structural support that holds the shell to the plywood floor. If you line up the rivet holes in the angle piece with those on the skin, you should see that the plywood will fit underneath it. If you look at our thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f185...b-50967-3.html, post #42, in the second picture you can see the top right corner of that angle sticking up from behind the c-channel.

Chris

[mwells4654]

Thank You Very Much - I think I am ready now. LOL - weather I like it or not.

[68 TWind]

The rear piece on my Trade Wind was in bad shape. I welded a piece of 2" angle between the frame rails with the C Channel sitting on top of it. I used numerous coats of Eastwood frame paint (por-15 type stuff) to prevent rust and to keep the aluminum from directly contacting the steel. After installing the floor, I drilled up through the angle, through the floor and channel and bolted it all down with 6 stainless steel bolts across the rear. Now the rear is much stiffer and secure.

[mwells4654]

More Questions - How much sub-floor should be showing under the U channel when you look from the outside. I have attached pictures - I have also jacked up the frame to where the frame meets up with the shell - is this too high? I could not go by the old sub floor since most of the back portion of the sub-floor was missing.

[Minno]

Originally Posted by mwells4654

More Questions - How much sub-floor should be showing under the U channel when you look from the outside. I have attached pictures - I have also jacked up the frame to where the frame meets up with the shell - is this too high? I could not go by the old sub floor since most of the back portion of the sub-floor was missing.

Take at look at my post #42 pictures again. Our experience with Little Girl is that the shell covered the entire edge of the plywood once you get everything riveted back together. This required us jacking up the frame so it met the shell again just like you show in your third picture. But I know all of these are put together by hand and each one is slightly different, so if the rivet holes in the shell all lined up with the rivet holes in the c-channel (u-channel), then you should be good to go.

One thing – it looks like you’re missing a piece of sheet aluminum that sits under the plywood and extend to the rear. That missing piece is where the hinge attaches to for the bumper cover. This piece is also shown in my same post #42 – the second & third pictures where I show the outside rear. It sits on top of the frame and under plywood and extends about 2 inches out the back. If memory serves, it extends under the plywood to just inside the black water box. If you need me to, I can go out and measure it for you tomorrow, and get a couple of additional pictures.

The rub rail will cover the plywood edge the rest of the way. But to keep it from rotting again, you’ll want to cover that edge with a good layer of vulkum. I’d put a fairly thin layer of vulkum on it now to protect it, and then add a second thicker layer when you go to install the rub rail. Or it might be better even cover the raw edge with epoxy now, and then add the vulkum when you install the rub rail.

Chris

[mwells4654]

Thanks - Minno - The piece of alum. you are referring to is being remade. The one I removed was all rotted out where is was in contact with the metal. I am waiting for the new one.

[Frank's Trailer Works]

That angle... the one discussed earlier... I read two different locations mentioned in this thread.
On the 73 I am currently working on the order is: frame, then an aluminum sheet to make the hinge side of the trunk hatch, then the steel angle, then the plywood, then the channel. The sandwich of aluminum to steel was a serious issue in the original situation. I need to figure out what will separate the two materials without adding too much thickness. Aerowoods routing out the sub floor is spot on I might add.
Another concern is the mention of jacking the frame. The frame should be made level and straight. It should be braced into that situation on jack stands or cribbing. By jacking it up or out or in you are going to end up with a bowed frame. The trailers are built at your stage on a huge steel floor. It is very flat and your frame should be the same. If the frame is bowed the tires will wear poorly or blow out a great deal.

Just my two cents on this.

[mwells4654]

Thanks 62Overlander. I do not understand the part about routing out the subfloor.

[Frank's Trailer Works]

if the plate is under the subfloor it will keep the plywood up off the frame the thickness of the plate. By routing it out you will make the plywood sit flat.