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Tom Bray · 10-07-2007, 10:18 PM

Work is slowly progressing on our trailer. We gutted the interior and then started in on the rear area.

Based on what I have found so far, I think that the bathroom area has been leaking and wet for a long time. In addition to the lower section of the cross member missing in the back, the next cross member is also in rough shape (both top and bottom are very thin), also the bottom of the frame on the passenger side is mostly rust. Also, on the passenger sider, there is only one support outside of the frame (I can't think of its correct name) and it doesn't look original, at least the weld doesn't look professional.

The frame is still straight so I was considering adding an extension to the frame like what was done on the driver's side that makes up for the big hole in the frame for the drain pipes to go through. Any other ideas?

I am not sure what I want to do with the second cross member. I want to put a gray water tank in front of it so it will need some sort of reinforcing or maybe just remove it and replace it too. Everything in front of that second cross member (going forward) looks good, on the inside there is still paint on the frame, very little rust.

Most of the wood next to the shell fell away but I have some that is still intact and I need to get it out from between the frame and the shell. What is the best way to remove the bolts? I have considered just sticking the grinder into the wood but I am worried that if I slip it could be very ugly. Another thought was to dig the wood out and then just cut the bolts but I haven't come up with a good approach for that either.

What is the best way to remove the old cross member(s)? Should I cut them out and then grind away what is left? Is there a better approach?

Any suggestions.

byamcaravanner · 10-08-2007, 05:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Bray

What is the best way to remove the bolts?

Tom,

I'm at the same point in the process as you are. I've experimented with a number of ways of removing the elevator bolts and have found that, by far, the best way is to use a saws-all. I use a 9" long metal cutting blade and slowly work the blade into the space between the top of the frame and the underside of the floor. This is actually rather easy because of the soft insulation sandwiched between the frame and the floor. For the upside down bolts at the wall channel I carefully cut them between the base channel and the top of the floor... taking care not to poke through the exterior skin.

Good Luck!

Aerowood · 10-08-2007, 06:40 AM

I am also going to install gry tanks in my 71 Globetrotter but I am going to install 2, one under the axle, and one aft of the first behind the next crossmember. I am concerned about getting the weight too far aft. The stub frames outside of the frame rails are called outriggers and they are the used for attachment of the shell to the frame.

Tom Bray · 10-08-2007, 09:10 PM

This evening I got most of the bolts and the dead wood out from between the frame and the body. The bolts that hold the frame to the body were badly rusted but they weren't going to cut ... I managed to get the nuts off using an impact wrench and holding the bottom of the bolt with a Vice Grip.

Now the problem is that the bottom edge of the body, that protects the flooring, is sitting rather firmly on the frame members, and deforming slightly.

What is the best way to hold up the rear of the body while I am restoring the frame? I was thinking about putting wood in place between the two frame members and jacking it up a tad there. The other possibility is to put wood around the passenger and driver sides (going around the curve in the back) and jacking it up on the centers of both of the curves.

Any suggestions

One other question. There is a steel "L" bracket attached to the back of the body that runs under the floor boards. It is rusty but otherwise it looks fine. Do I need to remove this piece and clean it up or is it better to just leave it alone, and just clean up the outside surfaces?