Por15 Questions?

[Safari Tim]

I just ordered new shocks for my Safari.

The wheel wells have surface rust on them so I was thinking of putting on a coat of por15 while I'm working in the area.

I noticed that they also have special topcoats. Do I need to use a por topcoat or after I put on the por15 can I just use a spray can of rustoleum black?

Also, how much would I need of the por15 to do a couple of dual axle wheel wells and maybe the entry step?

In fact, do I need to por15 at all? Is it that benificial?

[balrgn]

Originally Posted by Safari Tim

I just ordered new shocks for my Safari.

The wheel wells have surface rust on them so I was thinking of putting on a coat of por15 while I'm working in the area.

I noticed that they also have special topcoats. Do I need to use a por topcoat or after I put on the por15 can I just use a spray can of rustoleum black?

Also, how much would I need of the por15 to do a couple of dual axle wheel wells and maybe the entry step?

In fact, do I need to por15 at all? Is it that benificial?

I've had nothing but GOOD luck with their products. You should stick to thier top coating. 1 quart goes a long way, that should do ya...

[InsideOut]

The POR-15 topcoat is needed with the silver color because it is not UV stable...it turns a shade of goldish-green.

Shari

[sfixx]

Originally Posted by Safari Tim

Do I need to use a por topcoat or after I put on the por15 can I just use a spray can of rustoleum black?

Hi Tim,

I bought the POR-15 "mixed pack" here:

http://www.por15store.com/page/por15/PROD/POR15/MXPK

The top coat is not necessary but the POR-15 is not UV resistant so for cosmetic reasons only a top coat should be used. I used less than one 4 ounce can of each to paint my 2 wheels. They say 1 can covers 12 sq feet.

You could use Rustoleum over it...just make sure you spray while the POR-15 is still tacky because if you let it cure nothing will stick.

Good luck,

Steve

[fireflyinva]

IIRC you can use any topcoat with the POR-15. However, I do think that their topcoat is well worth using, since it probably is better formulated to work together. That said, if you are looking to use black, you shouldn't need to top coat it. It's only the silver color (which is a heavier duty product, so it may be worth using) that requires a topcoat, exactly as Shari says.

I bought a six pack, thinking I'd need that much. As I learned, a little goes a very long way...I painted all of my front hitch, top and underneath the step and most of the back bumper before I gave up and tossed the remainder of the first tiny can away. However, I don't think you can buy the six pack mini-sized cans individually. OTOH, I would suggest if you do end up getting the six pack, get a variety of colors. We've used them for a variety of reasons and having the other colors is nice (and they make nice gifts to other trailering friends).

Mary

[bake315]

If it's the wheel wells that you're touching up, and not the wheels themselves, I'd think a rust neutralizer followed by a coat of the black Por-15 would be more than sufficient. I wouldn't imagine a topcoat being necessary, given where it is.

[Safari Tim]

I plan on touching up the wheel wells, and the entry step. If I had enough I would do the hitch, all though its not neccessary.

So, if I stick with black I don't need a topcoat at all? Even for the entry step?

I just don't want to buy a bunch of stuff I don't need. After the dinette/counter top and flooring projects my AS funds are dwindling! ;-)

[bake315]

If your entry step isn't always out and exposed to the sun all day every day, then I'm not certain I'd bother with a topcoat on the black. Were it silver, then yes I would, due to the discoloration issue. I'd also consider a topcoat on any section that will be exposed at all times to the sun, black or otherwise.

[sfixx]

Originally Posted by Safari Tim

...my AS funds are dwindling! ;-)

Tim, your breaking my heart because I know right where you are at. I'm in the same boat. PM me your address and I'll send you a can of POR-15 and Blackcote. After I do my hitch I don't have any use in mind for the rest of my 6 pack.


Steve

[Safari Tim]

Originally Posted by sfixx

Tim, your breaking my heart because I know right where you are at. I'm in the same boat. PM me your address and I'll send you a can of POR-15 and Blackcote. After I do my hitch I don't have any use in mind for the rest of my 6 pack.


Steve

Steve, what a nice offer! But I'll gladly share the cost. Just make sure you truley don't need it.

Look for a PM...

[wahoonc]

is another project I have been splitting POR-15 costs with my Father in Law, he has a 57 Chevy and a tractor he has been using it on, so I can contribute to the cause and get what I need

Aaron

[Beginner]

In reguards to POR-15:
1. For the best results follow the directions as written. If it says clean with the Marine Clean, let dry, apply the Metal Prep and let dry over night then apply the black coat, just follow their directions. Any questions, call them and ask.
2. If you plan to use the cleaner, Prep, Black coat and their primer because you want to treat a section prone to rust on an automobile (pinch well area around the windshield), and then apply the cars original color over it all, after the primer dries overnight you must apply a water base primer sealer surfacer over their primer as the color coat (base color coat then clear coat) WILL lift the POR-15 primer and you will end up resanding and recoating the area with the POR-15 products to get the full benefits of their products.
3. Items 1 and 2 are based on experience over a 15 year period of restoring antique and not so antique automobiles. I live in Norfolk Virginia where there is always salt and moisture in the air and the POR-15 products work great if applied properly.
4. Should you get any of the POR-15 products on your hands, get it off immedately. If you let it dry it could take weeks to wear off.

Beginner

If you can't find the time to do it right the first time, where do you find time to do it over again? Overtime?