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Old 12-03-2008, 09:03 PM   #21
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Forrest in your restorations have you treaded the ends of the plywood? I have read people fiberglassing the ends, sealing them with epoxy sealers etc, curious how those have stood the test of time (Floor work is in our future on the 63).
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Old 12-03-2008, 09:50 PM   #22
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Scott & Megan,

The fiberglassing of damaged areas works well. I've done that in a couple of areas, most notably a 2' x 3' area in front of the entry door. But this really only works if there is some wood left to work with. The whole point of fiberglassing the floor is to reinforce the wood that's left. Sometimes a small area doesn't require the fiberglass mat, just the epoxy. Some DIY'ers thin the epoxy, drill or poke small holes in the damaged wood and pore and work the epoxy into the wood. Fiberglassing can be messy though, and you must ventilate the area well. It is a little expensive too.

If you are going to replace your entire floor or a sizeable area with plywood I don't feel it necessary to fiberglass or epoxy the edges. It works well, but I just don't think it's worth the effort. If you want to do something to protect the wood I think a good oil based floor paint will give you the most bang for the buck. Paint the underside, the edges and the top 6" in from the edges. In other words paint the perimeter. Water damage most often is confined to the outer edge of flooring. An oil based paint penetrates the wood somewhat and is fairly durable. A $10 gallon of it goes a long way.
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Old 12-03-2008, 11:11 PM   #23
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http://www.vinstream.com/aluminum-chassis.html---I tried to visit this link and it was broken.....
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Old 12-04-2008, 05:09 AM   #24
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As a retired custom home builder I've had excellent results with
Advantech and recommend it highly. It's heavy but I feel it to be the best thing to come along since sliced bread and would use it without question. Check it out.
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Old 12-04-2008, 08:35 AM   #25
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Great ideas!

Thanks for all the good info and perspectives!
I like hampstead38's view that plywood installed correctly will last a long time (40 years).
From reading posts it seems the biggest problem area is of the condensation on the inner wall/outer skin. Second biggest problem is plumbing leaks. Am I correct on this? I do not have any experience.
Has anyone tried and aluminum flashing under the U channel, out to the edge of the plywood and down? It would have to go up an little on the inside of the U channel and all penetrations sealed with something like RTV.
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Old 12-04-2008, 12:28 PM   #26
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Based on our Overlander, I would say the biggest issue is usually the bathroom floor. The "rotted floor" issue comes up over and over on the forums. I would say the second biggest problems is leaking. Window gaskets get hard. The door gasket gets hard, then breaks away entirely. Carpet tends to "trap" the moisture against the floor. After we had the Overlander at the house, I would go out after a rain and look for the damp places. Except for the basement, every damp spot was over a rotten piece of floor. And don't underestimate the problem of awnings creating water problems or leakage from the furnace/cooktop vent or fridge vent.

I pulled section of floor out to make a few temporary repairs. Nothing major, but I didn't notice rot specific to the wall edge. Of course, that could be related to the use or nonuse of the Overlander in the 40 or so years before we bought it.

Based on conversations with guys who do subfloors in Airstream, my impression is that they do some kind of coating or treatment on the exposed edges. I'm not sure how the flashing idea would work. My general thought is that if you install high quality plywood or OSB or a similar product, the main trick is to keep it dry. One concern I have about OSB is that when exposed to moisture, the edges can expand a bit faster and I wonder if that would stress the C-channel. I'm not an expert, but I would be a little nervous about the moisture-related characteristics of OSB.

I'm still toying with the overlapping sheets of plywood idea to form a monolithic floor.
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Old 12-04-2008, 12:32 PM   #27
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You might want to keep in mind that based on experience, Advantech, when exposed to water does not change dimensionally one iota. Great product.
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Old 01-29-2009, 07:43 PM   #28
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My article on using Trex for floor repair is now available for download at: The Vintage Airstream Life » Blog Archive » Something is Better Than Nothing
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Old 01-29-2009, 11:09 PM   #29
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I'm still toying with the overlapping sheets of plywood idea to form a monolithic floor.
Interesting idea, and one that I think has a lot of merit. Especially for those who would like to put in laminate flooring but are concerned about the plywood joints moving.

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Old 01-30-2009, 07:16 AM   #30
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A person might use a "floating" laminate floor, but on things like the 12x12 tiles, you may be right. We'll see how things go.
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Old 02-03-2009, 11:09 AM   #31
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Living so close to the Nyloboard plant I went there this morning. They gave me two small samples to play with. This stuff looks bombproof! I only want to do my floor once. This perhaps is the way to go. The strength and compression is better than any plywood and it is impervious to water infiltration, mold and delamination. I will be starting my floor soon and will keep you informed of results.
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Old 02-04-2009, 03:08 AM   #32
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I used it. I did my bathroom with nyloboard. I never worry about rot in that area. I have a left over cut up piece in my back yard which has been sitting there for almost a year. It still looks new and feels the same. I use it to put potted plants on.

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Old 02-13-2009, 06:56 AM   #33
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How about Extira?

Has anyone heard of or used Extira for their subfloor? I came across it at a local lumber supply yard. It's like MDF though much more water resistant and made for exterior applications. Details are here: Extira Treated Exterior Panel Product Line

I'm concerned that it will not take fasteners along its perimeter well. Anyone have thoughts on this product?

Thanks,

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Old 02-13-2009, 07:13 AM   #34
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Hey Steve, it was nice meeting you last week at the Texas Vintage.

I don't know anything about this product, but it certainly does appear to be similar to MDF, so my concerns would be primarily regarding its weight (since MDF is so very heavy), and then after that its ability to take fasteners, and its structural stability when laid down.

But I'm always very interested in new and potentially better products, so maybe someone else will have some real information about this one.

-Marcus
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Old 02-14-2009, 01:15 AM   #35
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What is Nyloboard??? Can you send me info on this??
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Old 02-14-2009, 04:35 AM   #36
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...n-38204-3.html

I took you to page three of my restoration using Nyloboard. You can see how I went about installing it in my trailer.

Nyloboard-The Next Generation of Green Building > HOME

This is the company and if you got back in this thread I posted the link to the specifications for nyloboard. So far I am a happy customer. Time will tell.

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Old 02-14-2009, 04:41 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by air-austin View Post
Has anyone heard of or used Extira for their subfloor?
Steve,

The website says it is for "non-structural" use. It would not work for an airstream subfloor.

Take a look at the Nyloboard mentioned in this thread... it is nice stuff.
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Old 02-14-2009, 05:54 AM   #38
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I'm leaning towards to AdvanTech at this point. Seems like a good balance of price/weight/rigidity/availability/exterior application. Thanks for the help and info!
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Old 02-14-2009, 05:58 AM   #39
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Steve, looking forward to seeing a picture on your blog of you standing on the ground through the middle of your frame!

-Marcus
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Old 02-14-2009, 06:01 AM   #40
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Shooting for end of day Monday. I first have to get that window sealed up once and for all.
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