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Old 07-24-2020, 09:00 AM   #41
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1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground , Washington
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I used a product called UHMW tape (ultra high molecular weight). It's available in various widths and thicknesses. I used 5 mil thickness. I put it between the frame and belly pan (the permanently attached skins), between the frame and sub-floor, and between the frame and C channel.

It's not perfect you still have rivets/bolts going between the two metals, but it does minimize contact. I'm sure others can suggest additional ideas.
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Old 07-25-2020, 06:06 AM   #42
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1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston , Vermont
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I just built two replacement wheel wells for my '62 Ambassador. I used 22 gauge galvanized steel, just like the original. I figured it they lasted 58 years, probably good enough. Regarding trying to build them heavy enough to withstand a tire blowout, I think you would be talking about some pretty heavy duty steel, probably heavier than 1/8". My approach will be to use good tires and tire pressure monitors.

Regarding the aluminum to galvanized interaction. It didn't seem to be a problem with the original. I will paint the contact area with bed liner, same stuff I put on the road side of the wheel wells. Harold's idea of the tape should be fine as well. On the front hold down plate, I covered it with Zip system joint tape, which is some pretty tough stuff, for the same reason. - Mark
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Old 07-25-2020, 08:02 PM   #43
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1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central , Mississippi
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Originally Posted by Mrmegafoz View Post
Hey Hi Ho Silver! and all,
We've got the frame exposed, cleaned-up, and almost ready to be painted. And, thankfully, it looks great! As far as the frame flange issues goes, would adding the lift kit block resolve the bolt up issue? If I'm reading the info right, the lift kit is basically a spacer that drops the axle below the flange.
Thoughts?
Jamie


Tough to say with certainty since these old trailers have a bunch of variations.

If you have the dimensions for the lift blocks, measure your flange to see if they will fit. Top of the lift block to the center of the hole. Bottom of your frame rail down to the bottom of the flange will tell you.
I haven’t installed any lift blocks but from what I’ve seen, they lower the axle tube so it no longer rides in the slot in the flange.
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