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arktos55343 · 04-27-2013, 12:39 PM

Kay - thanks so much for that confirmation! When I cut the front piece last Fall, I figured 92" was pretty close to what was there before...and that's where I'm at. So it appears that my internal bracing is the problem. I cut part of the bracing back to release the first spar, and was able to ratchet it into place. Now I just need to figure out how to dismantle the rest of the bracing without dropping the whole thing onto the ground. Yahoo!

Thanks again!

Morgan guy · 04-27-2013, 01:39 PM

Don't know if it would be of any help but I have a wheel that fits in the jack post that might help you maneuver the frame without also having to lift it. PM me if you think you could use it and I will ship it to you. You could ship it back when you are finished.
Ron

arktos55343 · 04-27-2013, 07:29 PM

Patience is definitely a virtue on this project! After discovering this morning that my interior bracing had increased the width of my shell by nearly 5 inches...and which consequently made me unsure of what the width of the sub-floor should be, I set about correcting the problem by dismantling the pylons and relocating them to the first spar. Then I ratcheted in the sides of the shell and re-braced them at 92 inches. It took several hours of my day to figure out how to do this without dropping the shell on the ground and calling 1-800 - GOT-JUNK? But finally got it done, and had enough of the day left to cut out most of the floor and dry-fit it to the frame. The frame itself is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch out of square...so it's not perfect...but I think it will do.

Here are a couple of pics of the progress....

Time to find some elevator bolts and get the floor screwed down.....

Wabbiteer · 04-28-2013, 07:11 PM

Now is the time to super-clean, degrease & sanitize the interior of the shell, before the frame/floor is anywhere near it...

arktos55343 · 05-13-2013, 07:29 PM

Wondering if anyone has any input/experience with a 'Full Sized" marine/RV Norcold 2-way 110v/12v fridge/freezer? Just considering the idea of not dealing with the un-reliable aspects and expense of a used/new 3-way. I know I won't be able to boondock without a generator....but that probably won't be an issue with me.

Thanks for any input you may have.

Peace

arktos55343 · 05-13-2013, 07:31 PM

A pic of the unit.....

arktos55343 · 05-13-2013, 07:58 PM

I am discovering that my mind is not what it used to be, and that I didn't take enough pictures during the de-struct phase of this project. Now, where did I put that......?????

I have most of the new sub-floor cut out and dry-fitted. 2 coats of oil based primer on both sides and all edges. Top coated with gray porch paint. Hope that will do the trick for a while, as far as sealing.... The floor will get at least one more coat of the porch paint when the shell is re-united with the frame/floor.

I believe Airstream used fiberglass insulation between the frame and the sub-floor to eliminate squeaking floor. Instead, I used a layer of rubber/polybutal (sp?) window tape (the stuff house contractors use to seal around window openings prior to installing windows) on top of the frame members that will come in contact with the sub-floor. I'm hoping it will eliminate squeaks....and prevent any moisture from wet sub-floor material from contacting the frame and promoting rust.

A couple boxes of elevator bolts should be arriving at my door any day now...along with rivets and other treasures. I already received my box of aluminum polish in 3 grades. I've stripped clear-coat from several sections of the Trade Wind with Citrustrip. Now I will try my hand at removing some of the built-up corrosion and see what kind of a shine I can come up with.

Fortunately, before I start bolting down the floor, I remembered to hunt through a lot of pictures to identify some things that need to go back onto the frame BEFORE the floor goes down....like the aluminum door threshold support, the aluminum sheet that protects the sub-floor from water that gets drawn up into the step area and the aluminum trim around the wheel wells (not entirely sure how that mess goes back together)....must find more pictures....

Now....for some nice weather (and I don't mean 95 degrees.....)

Wabbiteer · 05-13-2013, 08:57 PM

Progress is great, progress is good, clamp that foam tape down dude?

I deleted the guard sheet armoring the floor above the step cavity - as found on mine, after years of sealed & leak free interior, it was holding a pool of foul smelling water, I posted a photo on my thread even! A primer/paint system - and possibly some additional undercoating and/or glued aluminum panel will suffice I believe.

arktos55343 · 05-13-2013, 09:26 PM

Thanks - Tape is rubber...very sticky...probably even stickier tomorrow in 95 degree heat. Good idea on the deleto of the guard sheet. I'm sure this rubber tape (4" wide) will seal up the cracks well enough....guard sheet or no guard sheet.

arktos55343 · 05-15-2013, 06:43 PM

I'm waiting on a shipment of elevator bolts, so I can start attaching the floor to frame. Any day now....

In the meantime, I stayed busy today removing the old TV antenna and cable. Now I have 2 new holes in the roof. Afraid I had to take a cutting wheel to the steel support post for that old antenna...too corroded to get it to release. Used a grinding wheel to shave off the rivets inside...and that was that. Finished up with a sanding wheel to remove all of the old adhesive and get down to bare aluminum. I imagine I will use the location to mount a different digital antenna, but am planning on patching the other hole where the cable went through the skin.

Received my shipment of aluminum polish in 3 grades. Having already stripped areas of the clear-coat, started working on the corrosion with one of those cheap Turtle Wax polishers. It wasn't too long before the foam applicator pad ripped to shreds....but happy to say it looks like it is going to polish out very nicely. Don't think I will go for a mirror finish this year...but to get rid of the corrosion will be a huge improvement.

Also decided the old a/c unit had to go. I'm probably going to replace it with a Mach 8....but we will see. I generally don't have anyone around to give me a hand, so decided to take the thing apart piece by piece until it is light enough to manage either by myself or with one other person. Heave - HO!! Found some popped rivets near the a/c...which may have happened during the shell removal. Not having that lug of an a/c unit up there will make it much easier to replace those rivets.

Ordered all new exterior LED lights from LED4RV....so I removed all of the old exterior lights today in preparation of more clear-coat stripping and polishing.

Trying to decide if I am going to replace the 3 vent/fans with new Fantastic Fans...since the gaskets on the old fans are all shot. But the idea of drilling out all of those rivets without being able to get right on top of them has me second-guessing. Might try grinding the rivets off from the inside as I did with the antenna. Maybe they will just pop off then and leave nice clean holes for the new rivets.

Hope the weather cooperates.....So.Much.To.Do......

Splitrock · 05-15-2013, 08:27 PM

I cut the rivets off on top with a sharp high speed steel wood chisel. Easy!

arktos55343 · 05-15-2013, 08:32 PM

I like that idea too...thanks. All except the part about my 6'2" / 230lbs frame being 'up there' in the first place. LOL

Wabbiteer · 05-15-2013, 09:28 PM

The new fans are extremely efficient at moving air compared with the old fans - I seriously doubt you need three. Two, with one as powered intake and one exhausting would seriously change out atmospheres. I am counting on using one only, have permanently sealed the forward ceiling vent.

arktos55343 · 05-15-2013, 09:55 PM

Thanks for that info. Good to know! Perhaps I will install forward and aft, as they are sleeping areas...and remove the one which is currently directly behind the a/c unit.

Minno · 05-16-2013, 07:35 AM

We used Maxair vents: we like the fact that they are covered and can be left open in the rain. We've used them on SOB trailers and liked them. We put in 2: forward and aft, and put a regular vent in the center one (cheap and easier than sealing a hole that size). 2 vents on low, one pulling air in and one exhausting works well for air movement in the trailer.

Kay

Splitrock · 05-16-2013, 08:35 AM

I installed 3 fans. I wanted to replace all three original vents anyway and it was no more work to install a fan than a vent. The power wire was available to power the center fan. I can see the center fan being a benefit in removing heat and cooking aroma from the kitchen area. I'm happy I decided to go with 3 Fantastic fans.

arktos55343 · 05-16-2013, 04:06 PM

Today, I got down to business and removed the old air conditioner and all 3 roof vents. Had to take the a/c apart piece by piece to make it light enough for 1 person (me) to heave off the roof.

I decided to replace 2 of the roof vents (forward and aft) with Fantastic Vents with thermostat and rain sensor. The mid-ships vent will either become a sky-light or be patched...depending on what happens with the new air conditioner.

Speaking of air conditioner.... I was ready to order a new Coleman Mach 8 from PPL, but decided I needed to call them for some clarification. They were very honest and up-front...and told me there are some issues with installing this unit on an Airstream. They said Dometic/Penguin is usually the way to go with an Airstream because of issues with the drain line. But they also said Dometic is difficult to deal with because they are constantly changing their product/parts line. Arrrrgh!!!

If I am to go with the Mach 8 (which I ordered), I will have to salvage the old drain pan in order to hook up the drain line. Sounds like a headache in my future... But I love the look of the Mach 8

After seeing a Safari parked in a storage facility near my home with a white painted roof, I did a search for similar roof coating materials. I am considering painting the roof with an aluminum fibre coating that is supposed to cut down on UV rays by 80%. I just don't see myself climbing up on the roof to polish the aluminum every couple of years or more. And the aluminum fiber coating would seal up any potential leaks. Anyway...I will polish out the corrosion that exists now...while the vents and a/c are removed. Then see about sealing the upper-most sheet of alluminum with the coating.

Elevator bolts arrived today.... I think I have a long weekend ahead of me....

HiHoAgRV · 05-18-2013, 06:18 PM

The Mach 8 is super easy to hook to an existing drain line, much easier that the plastic airstream pan. I've never messed with the Dometic cups do I can't comment on them.

The Mach 8 was a bit more forgiving of the opening size than the Dometic. The only drawback so far is the outside fan is a louder whooshing sound than a Dometic.

arktos55343 · 05-18-2013, 07:26 PM

Thanks for that information. Very frustrating to get so much bad information from these companies and their dealers. They insisted the Mach 8 could not be hooked up to the drain line without scabbing the old drain pan. And who knows the condition of my old drain pan after dropping the bulk of the unit from about 8 feet high...LOL. So, I reversed direction and ordered a 13.5k Penguin II with heat strip and a thermostat that will tie into my furnace down the line. I guess no system is likely to be a perfect in a retro-fit like this. Hopefully it will work out.

In other news, with twister season on the way and a giant old old tree hovering over my vulnerable shell and frame, I lowered the frame to about 12 inches today and secured it with tie downs again (not that that is going to help much with a twister.... or a fallen tree). On Monday, I will up the insurance coverage, just in case.....

Days of off and on rain expected. Don't know how much work I am going to get done until things settle down. But between showers, I will continue to strip the clear coat and power wash it away...