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Old 10-18-2008, 02:30 PM   #1
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outrigger rot

Looking things over, it looks like I need outriggers, two at the step, two at the battery, two at the wheels wells (each side) and two near the drain.
the frame looks to need a scab welded on in a place or two, otherwise, the frame looks good. I ask, does anyone sell the outriggers, or would it be better to have them made, is it possible to do it in PT wood or is that a bad idea. Thanks, John
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Old 10-18-2008, 02:36 PM   #2
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Looking things over, it looks like I need outriggers, two at the step, two at the battery, two at the wheels wells (each side) and two near the drain.
the frame looks to need a scab welded on in a place or two, otherwise, the frame looks good. I ask, does anyone sell the outriggers, or would it be better to have them made, is it possible to do it in PT wood or is that a bad idea. Thanks, John
We have all the outroggers that you may need.

They are not listed on our web site.

Andy
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Old 10-18-2008, 03:13 PM   #3
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I Know I am replying to my post, I just found all the outriggers I need, as a matter of fact I found most anything else I need for any missing parts, metal, light covers and such, I just wanted to pass it along, I found it here on this our airstream website ODMRV , Out-of-Doors Mart
next step will be to order the stuff and then attach it to the rig, thanks again, John
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Old 10-19-2008, 08:30 AM   #4
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outriggers

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Originally Posted by floridartist View Post
Looking things over, it looks like I need outriggers, two at the step, two at the battery, two at the wheels wells (each side) and two near the drain.
the frame looks to need a scab welded on in a place or two, otherwise, the frame looks good. I ask, does anyone sell the outriggers, or would it be better to have them made, is it possible to do it in PT wood or is that a bad idea. Thanks, John
Here is a link to a view of all the outriggers.


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Old 10-19-2008, 10:17 AM   #5
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While you are looking the frame over, examine the whole frame carefully. We got a nasty surprise on ours, I looked at the entire frame, from the fresh water tank back to the bumper, and it looked good. However, it was bad from just forward of that point, and I missed it until we had done a lot of other work on our trailer.
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Old 10-21-2008, 06:40 AM   #6
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Thanks Dan, I placed the order yesterday for the outriggers, I got a bunch of other stuff too, the web site is very good. Today might be a good day for me to learn how to remove rivets. Also will be looking into ways to clean up rust and protect the frame with paint or sealer, so far my restore is going well.
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Old 10-22-2008, 07:21 AM   #7
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As I removed the trim to get at the wrap underbelly, I noticed that the wrap was on top of the side skin all the way around, I am convinced this is the main reason that has caused all the outrigger rot, and some floor rot, being water gets behind the trim then under the belly wrap at the seams, see pictures, So it was a productive day for me on my back in Florida dirt with the bugs and bitting things, but well worth the effort, For the first time in years this Airstream is drying out, next job, (weilding)
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Old 10-22-2008, 07:47 PM   #8
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Here is another image that shows the results of the water leaking in though the seams though out the years,
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Old 10-22-2008, 07:54 PM   #9
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As I removed the trim to get at the wrap underbelly, I noticed that the wrap was on top of the side skin all the way around, I am convinced this is the main reason that has caused all the outrigger rot, and some floor rot, being water gets behind the trim then under the belly wrap at the seams, see pictures, So it was a productive day for me on my back in Florida dirt with the bugs and bitting things, but well worth the effort, For the first time in years this Airstream is drying out, next job, (weilding)
Floridartist,
Their all made that way and that is why sealing around the lower rub trim strip is so very very important. Water will find its way behind that trim strip and into the flooring, frame, and belly pan. Then you know what happens next.

I often wondered why they put the belly pan on the outside like that. I think it would make more sense to put it under the trailer body. That way water would run off the trailer bady harlessly. But then again I am not a structural engineer.
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Old 10-24-2008, 06:42 PM   #10
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I think I have come up with a plan for a repair of the frame rot, the C channel frame is about 4 1/2" x 1 1/2" and 26 feet long, most of it is in good shape, I will have made a 26' long by 4" by 1 1/4" and slide it all the way down inside, from the front to the bumper and weld that inside and in place, then buff up to remove all rust, zinc prime and paint then install the outriggers, and I think with that, I will be ready to go in a good way, beside a whole new frame, Arches welding of Beautiful High Springs Fl will be looking this idea over on Monday, I will keep you informed.
what do you all think of this plan? has anyone ever done this? Thank you
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Old 10-27-2008, 06:19 PM   #11
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Today I noticed I am a proud member of two rivets, what ever that means.
My welder showed up today, his price to repair the frame, $60 bucks an hour, could be up to 40 hrs of work, my idea to slide a new frame into the old frame was not a very good idea, I also got an electric wire brush on my grinder, its a dirty job, it works great at cleaning up the rust, then I hit it with a primmer, I also got some 3/4" insulation with foil on both sides and glued that to all the plywood under the belly to protect the wood, the plywood under the the outriggers I,ll do when the frame is done, then I plan on rolls of insulation before the skin goes back on.
The project is going well, I hope my body holds up. Thanks, John
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Old 11-07-2008, 05:35 AM   #12
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.
My welder showed up today, his price to repair the frame, $60 bucks an hour, could be up to 40 hrs of work,
$2400

You could buy a really decent welder and go to classes and learn how to do it yourself for a lot less than that.

Welding is not all that difficult actually. I bought a dvd that teaches you how and they make it real easy to learn

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Old 11-07-2008, 06:08 AM   #13
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You say most of C-channel frame is in good shape. Then why place the long stiffener in it?
I think you should just clean up what is there first. Then make prudent decisions.
Get rid of that welder, til you need and know exactly what and where welding needs to be done.
Search for threads or posts on OSPHO or Ospho here on the forums.
The rust will flourish behind (between) the added plate and the C-channel it covers and you will never be able to get to it again. There is no way the welds will seal the whole run and even if they did the rust would continue between the two plates.
I suspect that your situation is very common on coastal and seaboard dwelling trailers.
Are you planning on lots of travel in the trailer or using it more as a seldom moved studio etc?
We all seem to have this urge to return our trailers to some "virgin" status, but sometimes that is not entirely necessary. I do believe fighting the cancer of rust is a worthy eneavor in most all cases. It is a nasty and miserable job, so do it as damm near perfectly as is reasonable given your time, energy, and economical circumstanse. You sure don't want to repeat it ever. But it aint ever gonna be all gone nor is it gonna ever be perfect again. Patch it & Pull it.
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Old 11-08-2008, 06:59 AM   #14
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You have given me some good advice, and now I have taken a new direction on the project, I have a friend that has lived under my airstream for about a week now, buffing out all the rust with an electric wire wheel, it is looking great, I bring him food and he keeps going. I found a welder for $55 an hour, and he has made measurements for the most critical areas, and says its no more than a day and a half job, he will be welding the frame, new outriggers and cross members, I will get the inside of the C channel primmed being its now cleaned up so good.
I have sealed the plywood with a 3/4 two side foil insulation so its all not out in the open air for months, in the mean time, I noticed I am missing a fresh water tank, so I am on a search for that. This is a very inspiring project and I am glad I found the Airstream forums and you all given me my two rivets, thanks, John
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Old 11-08-2008, 07:44 AM   #15
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Where do you find a friend that will live under your airstream like that? I hope you give him some good food. I agree with d'drummer about a double frame channel. Corosion would probably happen between the two pieces. Maybe you could "box" the channel in with rectangular flat plates around the weak areas, and shoot a coating in there from the ends to prevent corrosion.
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Old 06-09-2009, 04:38 PM   #16
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frame rot job done

Happy to say the frame rot job is finished, total cost $1,300.00 ,now for the first time in 6 months, early this morning I took The streamer off its jack stands, and backed the streamer up to my garage shop for the belly wrap job, being the tires are back on I have made a ramp which now gives me over 30" clearance to clawl around under the carrage, I picked up some roofing roll 4' x 10' at $ 25 bucks a sheet and the insulation is ready to go, as I have read in the forums, this might not be the best of all bests as for the belly wrap, but it will serve my personal purpose, also I have some short galvinized sheet metal screews with the rubber washer, how can that hurt,? and thats the way I plan to install my belly pan, soon I will have pictures, , thank you, John
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Old 06-09-2009, 05:25 PM   #17
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Hey John,

Glad to hear you're getting closer to being back on the road again.

The use of galvanized screws may set you up for galvanic corrosion. The rubber washers will help insulate the faying surfaces, but if contact is made, your aluminum belly skins will become the sacrificial anode.

The Anodic Index (AI) for aluminum is anywhere from 0.75 to 0.95, and the AI for zinc is in the 1.2 to 1.25 range. In a potentially wet environment it is desirable to keep the AI differential to 0.15 or less to minimize this characteristic.

Regards,

Kevin

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Old 06-11-2009, 04:22 PM   #18
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I have a dumb question. Can new outriggers be welded on to the frame with the existing floor still in place? I would assume no, but thought I would ask.
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Old 06-11-2009, 06:15 PM   #19
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I have a dumb question. Can new outriggers be welded on to the frame with the existing floor still in place? I would assume no, but thought I would ask.
They sure can, but you must shield the wood best you can, and have some water standing by.

Some burning of the wood may take place, but you can paint that area after the outrigger welding is done. That will shield the burnt wood smell.

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