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Old 11-01-2006, 03:18 PM   #1
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1965 28' Ambassador
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opinions on floor repair

I am removing at least the last two feet of floor in my 65 Ambassador. I know I have some frame repair that will be done once the floor is out and the holding tank and pan are removed. Should I go ahead and remove the remaning aprox 20" of floor to get to the first seam or should I cut the rear section of floor that is in good shape?

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Old 11-01-2006, 04:06 PM   #2
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Yup

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbrom
... Should I go ahead and remove the remaning aprox 20" of floor to get to the first seam...
That what I did on my '67. Details are at my Overlander's web site (link below).

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Old 11-01-2006, 06:54 PM   #3
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Nice site. I actually have so of the same questions that you had about the cut out around by dump valve. I am a visual learner so I am hoping some one has a simular set up as what I am supposed to and the can take a picture.
Thanks Tim
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Old 11-01-2006, 07:09 PM   #4
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Not the same model but I think same idea?

I made the repairs to the frame, used POR and new ply with fiberglass.

It's now rock solid, the other side was fine, this was caused by a leak by the tail light.
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Old 11-01-2006, 07:32 PM   #5
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I am not 100% sure what caused my floor rot. I know I had a vent leak. The PO also left the rear hatch panel door off for any where from 3-7 years.The water heater looks as though if it had leaked, there is still no gasket to speak of around the rear hatch(not sure what is supposed to be there) May have been and still may be more.

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Old 11-01-2006, 10:41 PM   #6
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For a 1965.... I would remove as much as you can so you can por as much of the frame as possible. Have you removed the belly pan? How much repair/redo are you expecting to do? While you are in there you can replumb at least the part you are working with!

Got pictures?

Mrs. NorCal Bambi (traveling in S Tardis)
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Old 11-04-2006, 06:46 AM   #7
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I have removed the bathroom. I am planning to remove the belly pan as the frame repair dictates. I am in no hurry to remove the belly pan due to the weather. I am thinking it is more of a spring project.
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Old 11-04-2006, 10:20 AM   #8
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It's not a big job to drop the belly pans, I'm sure you will find soaking insulation which will continue to damage over the winter.

If you drop the pan now remove the wet stuff, it will dry out over the winter and you can plan your spring work list after a look see under.
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Old 11-04-2006, 10:55 AM   #9
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Lipets,

I don't want to but in on this thread, but I looked at the picture you posted on your 11-01-2006 reply. I have a 1978 Soveriegn and think I will be in to something like you have shown. I know from removing the front subfloor section that I have at least a few rotted outriggers, and some pretty good rot in at least one location along a main frame rail where the outrigger had joined. All that is left on e few of the outriggers I could see was the top "angle" metal part.

How did yo go about repairing your frame? I recall seeing some of your posts before - are there pictures showing what you did?

Regarding replacing outriggers, I see that out-of-door-mart has them for about $20.00 US. Are they worth it, and how hard are they to get on? Can you advise on welding method best to work with for the airstream frame( I have no experience but someone has offered to lend me a small welder and get me strated).

I'll be getting my trailer up om ramps and dropping the belly pan in the next few weeks. Have posted earlier on my plans. Kind of new to the forums and still trying to find my way around re: subscriptions, etc.

Thanks,

Toga
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Old 11-04-2006, 11:34 AM   #10
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I have a pic, can't find it at the moment.

But what I did is had a alum 3/16" C channel made up by a local fabricator with a welded flange at the end, to ty into the cross member.

The C channel fit inside the old C channel it was made to fit very close, I used a sledge hammer to help it in.

I was going to have it made out of 1/8" steel and weld it but the guy at the shop said the load in this part of the frame didn't need it.

He's doing this stuff a long time so I did it his way.

Then we can't weld alum to steel, so he drilled a bunch of 5/16" holes and I drilled thru the steel and used SS bolts.

I also used 1/4" self tapping flat head screws to fasten the plywood to the frame. So everything is tyed together like a rock.
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Old 11-04-2006, 04:25 PM   #11
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C channel
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Old 11-04-2006, 04:29 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lipets
...I was going to have it made out of 1/8" steel and weld it but the guy at the shop said the load in this part of the frame didn't need it...
The load did not necessarily need it, but now you have mixed metals; Add humidity and you have the recipe for galvanic corrosion.

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Old 11-04-2006, 04:34 PM   #13
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Not sure I agree, the steel has 3 coats of POR, and
no insultion below the floor to keep it wet.

Time will tell.
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Old 11-04-2006, 04:44 PM   #14
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When you drop your belly pan do you leave a little material to reattach the new pan to or are you removing it completely? I have thought about removing the pan as soon as I get accsess to a good welding machine. My little buzz box dosen't cut the mustard.
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Old 11-04-2006, 04:50 PM   #15
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Your not cutting the pan out, all you need to do is drill out about 75 rivets.

It will come down, if its in good shape you can reuse it.

If not a 4X8 sheet is about $50
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Old 11-04-2006, 05:05 PM   #16
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I don't think I'll reuse the old pan. I would rather use new material if it's feasible. Would you remove more of the floor than what is rotted? I am under the impression that most of my welding can be done from underneath.
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Old 11-04-2006, 05:30 PM   #17
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Once the pan is down you can also inspect most of the plywood from the bottom.

Mine looked great except for two spots, one I didn't see from the top or inside.

I would only remove what is bad.
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Old 11-06-2006, 07:13 PM   #18
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Lipets,

Thanks for the info and picture on your frame repair. Did you have to do any outriggers. Also did you insulate below the floor and in between the belly pan or leave it open?

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Old 11-06-2006, 07:29 PM   #19
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Outriggers were ok, a few bolts were missing, don't know why?

No insulation in the belly, I am putting it inside on the floor, with Pergo on top.

If you want to put it in the belly or on the floor do NOT use the pink stuff, only use the foil bubble it will not absorb moisture and it has an R-14 rating.
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Old 11-07-2006, 06:58 AM   #20
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bubble insulation

We just came home with our AS two days ago. The very first thing my husband did was start taking down the belly since it had mice underneath in the insulation. I can really see the validity of Bob's bubble insulation over the standard; all the insulation was a soggy matted mess filled with mouse waste. UGH.

Luckily the floors appear to be ok in general and not rotted. However we do need to replace a couple of outriggers. Can someone give me the link to out-door-mart?

I would think that the bubble in addition to being drier would be less likely to get critters in since it wouldn't make good nesting. (?) I couldn't quickly find the link in the forum as to where to best buy the bubble insulation, but know that it can be bought at Farmtek.

I don't know how the prices compare but there is the link: http://www.farmtek.com/webapp/wcs/st...egoryIds=11210
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