Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-17-2012, 08:14 PM   #1
Rivet Master
 
2005 22' International CCD
Buckhorn , Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,449
Blog Entries: 5
Ok this is JUST NOT FUNNY!!!

First my trailer is barely 7 years old. It is ONLY 22' long, I always travel with my black and grey tanks empty! I never put anything in the back of the trailer, always over the wheel base - besides I travel light!....that is just the hook to get you interested...

And of course I'm a woman so you have to have the whole story!!

Had to move her over a width off the deck to get at the wheels - my green bin is acting as my internet hub and router house cause the cable don't reach ug Also have to get the owner to give me some new slabs - no wonder I have not been level. He brought over a load of gravel so I'm thinking I have to do that myself as well
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0714.jpg
Views:	384
Size:	440.5 KB
ID:	163346

I was deep into saving myself $800 and changing out my own brakes.

Got a great price for new complete assembly and drums that come with bearings. Just have to pack em with grease.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0713.jpg
Views:	393
Size:	432.6 KB
ID:	163345

Got her jacked up doing one side at a time. Got the wheels off, and then the Drums. And set her back down on the jack stands with safeties in front and back just in case - you know I do have to live in it while I'm doing this as well as work for a living too
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0715.jpg
Views:	391
Size:	372.9 KB
ID:	163347

Got stuck on the brakes cause I could not budge the backing plates bolts - needed a real strong box wrench that fit - with some surrogate man power also known as a hammer - was going to beat the you know what out of that to avoid having to fire them up and set me and the trailer on fire with my LUCK!

Got the first one off after about 45 minutes of brute woman strength - oh PS men out their saw your dumb dumb thread - kind of a waste of time for us women to jump in that now don't you think

Got to the back wheel - hammering away on the first of four bolts and something caught my eye - well I will tell YA this is an eye opener alright.
Ya see it....I did not see it when I took this pic - just amazed at how rusted and bad my brakes looked.

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0712.jpg
Views:	420
Size:	382.7 KB
ID:	163344

Look a little closer!!!

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0717.jpg
Views:	389
Size:	482.0 KB
ID:	163355


There is NO WAY in tinkers bell a chassie main frame should be split clean through!! like this. I have worked on several vintage trailers and never seen anything like this.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0716.jpg
Views:	429
Size:	477.9 KB
ID:	163354

What GIVES here?? Is this a faulty frame?

I am putting a call into the Factory first thing in the morning. And I better get some serious "yes we will fix this right away MS" answers.

Man I don't speed, I don't over load, I'm hitched correctly - this just does not make any sense!

As it is I am going to need a temporary plate welded there just to get me to the factory. How the heck do they fix something like this - have to take the whole thing apart?

Send me lots of Karma cause I'm feeling mighty sick to my stomach right now. Just when I was getting so excited that I could get on the road again with all new brakes - wham!
__________________

05ModPod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2012, 08:29 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
robert claus's Avatar

 
2000 19' Bambi
mt. Prospect , Illinois
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 798
Images: 19
What's happened to your frame is not right, but a welded plate to mend the break will be the answer. Realistically, I don't think that you want to think about any other method of repair. At least it's in an accessible area, and that you found it!
Finish your brake job, get the frame welded, and keep goin' !
__________________

robert claus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2012, 08:36 PM   #3
Chief Chili Cook
 
newroswell's Avatar
 
2010 30' Flying Cloud
Bakersfield , California
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 738
A while back there where several threads about cracked frames on the 22'ers. Here's a long one. There's a kit from Airstream. You may have to get the kit sent to you and have it installed where it sits by a competent welder.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ure-48105.html
__________________
The NSA -- The only part of the government that listens.
newroswell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2012, 08:37 PM   #4
Sky
Classic 30
 
Sky's Avatar
 
Sum Wear , Ohio
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 581
Images: 6
Nice pics. Zoomed in, the lower part of the crack almost looks welded. Those aren't weld marks are they? Wow, that's scary for a 2005. It will be very interesting to hear what AS has to say. Please keep us posted.
__________________
"Only dull people are brilliant at breakfast" - Oscar Wilde

2500HD DMax............30' Classic
__________________
Sky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2012, 08:39 PM   #5
Rivet Master
 
2005 22' International CCD
Buckhorn , Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,449
Blog Entries: 5
But the frame is sitting down below the floor about 1/4 inch where the split is - how will that be straightened properly?

With this I wonder what the rest of the frame is like - I'm scared to drop the belly pan now - which it is about to drop off anyway as most of the screws have rusted and flat head rivets corroded through.

I'm real good at washing this baby down after every trip during the winter...

Oh hum I will never sleep - I really do hope AS FAC has some answers for me, and how I am going to go about doing this - hopefully with their help!
05ModPod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2012, 08:42 PM   #6
Rivet Master
 
2005 22' International CCD
Buckhorn , Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,449
Blog Entries: 5
Oh sorry posted while you guys were posting. Will check out that thread right away Thanks.

No it has not been welded - but the bottom part has moved insides the top seems to spread out if you know what I mean.

I know she is a bit rusty - but heck all the paint has not come off yet...
05ModPod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2012, 09:22 PM   #7
Rivet Master
 
2005 22' International CCD
Buckhorn , Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,449
Blog Entries: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by newroswell View Post
A while back there where several threads about cracked frames on the 22'ers. Here's a long one. There's a kit from Airstream. You may have to get the kit sent to you and have it installed where it sits by a competent welder.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ure-48105.html

OMG - I'm on page 10 and can't read anymore!!!

How come the factory has not sent anything out to anyone about this - not even as a warning to have the frame checked periodically - this is pure negligence!

I shudder to think of my coming trip south in a few weeks if I had not caught this.

Something has to be done and I am not taking no for an answer. This is not a threat either - it is simply fact. This is not right, and peoples safety has been at great risk, when it could have either been avoided or forewarned.

When I bought the trailer from Paula it was completely serviced at the Factory - there was still a bit of warranty and I was changed over to receive any notifications - I have received nothing - and have been at the same address.

And the likes of this thread surely something should have been done or said. Trust me to take a hiatus from the forums a year after I bought it.
05ModPod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2012, 09:36 PM   #8
Chief Chili Cook
 
newroswell's Avatar
 
2010 30' Flying Cloud
Bakersfield , California
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 738
I know, it's a horrible situation. BUT, it can be fixed. It's just a matter of who pays for what and where it gets done. Julianne had Uwe of Area 63 Productions weld her kit on. It was quick, the trailer's better than new.
__________________
The NSA -- The only part of the government that listens.
newroswell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2012, 09:44 PM   #9
Rivet Master
 
2005 22' International CCD
Buckhorn , Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,449
Blog Entries: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by newroswell View Post
I know, it's a horrible situation. BUT, it can be fixed. It's just a matter of who pays for what and where it gets done. Julianne had Uwe of Area 63 Productions weld her kit on. It was quick, the trailer's better than new.
I guess when I call the factory I will find out if this "kit" is still available. And yes who pays for this?? (Not me!)

There are only two Airstream Dealers - one is 8 hours away and the other 4 hours away - so how do I tow this there - and who pays for that.

I know that if I contact my insurance company now - if they find out that this was a known issue from Airstream warranty or no warranty factory defects up here are taken care of free of charge. But they will instruct the Factory to take care of this even though I am a resident of Ontario - it is a USA product.

Oh Lord what a mess....and here I was having so much fun coming back to the forums...

Ha you never know - these forums may just have saved my LIFE! literally.

Ok yes a little drama right now but heck I've been through a lot lately.
05ModPod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2012, 09:45 PM   #10
Contributing Member
 
Pahaska's Avatar
 
2018 Interstate Grand Tour Ext
Austin (Hays County) , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 6,992
Images: 4
I had a 2003 International 22 with the bathroom and galley in the rear. They were breaking the frame at that point regularly because of all the weight in the rear. I was lucky and had the kit installed before mine broke.
__________________
John W. Irwin
2018 Interstate GT, "Sabre-Dog V"
WBCCI #9632
Pahaska is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2012, 09:51 PM   #11
Rivet Master
 
2005 22' International CCD
Buckhorn , Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,449
Blog Entries: 5
The model I have is the desk at the back and side bathroom - hardly any weight - galley is over the left wheel well.

We changed the dinette but the weight of the l-seating is the same or slightly more.

I only put my microwave on the seat along with my toaster oven. Big Mac sleeps on the bed - and the rest is stowed in bins as per the storage layout and mostly linens. Ha like I said I travel really light.

So if there is a question of overweight - doubt it. 500 pound level pars only run with the GMC sierra 06 model which does not have a supper stiff suspension.

Well I am sure this will all take time, and hopefully I can work this all out with the Factory in the morning.
05ModPod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2012, 10:15 PM   #12
Rivet Master
 
ROBERTSUNRUS's Avatar

 
2005 25' Safari
Salem , Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,006
Images: 18
Blog Entries: 55
Hi, this is obviously a factory designed defect and should be properly repaired [new beefier frame] and should cost you nothing execept for getting to Jackson Center and back.
__________________
Bob

2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent"
[ Small Silver Castle ]
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
ROBERTSUNRUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2012, 06:09 AM   #13
Figment of My Imagination
 
Protagonist's Avatar
 
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over , More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,873
Lot of corrosion there. Unfortunately, it would take a metalurgial analysis to see which came first, the crack or the corrosion. Corrosion causes a loss of metal thickness which leads to a stress point, which leads to cracking. However, cracking of the frame also leads to a gap in the protective coating, which lets water in, which allows corrosion to happen. Chicken, meet egg.

If you want an enginner's opinion…

The good news is that doubler plates are a time-tested fix. Also good news, any competent welder can do it, and a local welder can come out to the trailer without you towing it anywhere. Tell the welder that you want the welds to conform to American Welding Society (AWS) D1.1. This is the Structural Welding Code.

First step in fixing it would be to jack up the rear of the trailer to get it back into proper alignment. You don't want to weld in a permenent sag. Once you get it aligned the way you want it, put cribbing under it (i.e. put it on blocks or jack stands to hold it so the load isn't resting on a jack that could give way while someone's working on the trailer; the welder will have to get underneath the trailer to do some of the work).

Next, clean off any corrosion at the break. At the same time, remove any coating on the steel, all the way back to "near white metal" which is the technical terms for no visible corrosion and no visible coating except for tiny embedded flakes that aren't worth grinding away metal to get rid of. Do this on the entire area that will be covered by the doubler plates.

You want two doubler plates sandwiching the break between them. You want one doubler plate slightly longer than the other so the welds on the inside and outside don't line up. You don't want new stress cracks forming later where the new welds are, so you want the welds spaced out if possible. Doubler plates should each be the same thickness as the framing member that broke, as tall as the framing member (or as close as possible, anyway), and at least twice as long as the height of the framing member.

You want a full-penetration butt-weld along the break itself, meaning that the weld metal completely fills the gap in the broken framing member. Welders understand the term "full-pen butt-weld" so that's really all you'd have to tell him. The weld then has to be ground flush, so it doesn't stick out from the frame. By the way, a butt-weld means that the pieces to be welded are butted together end-to-end. It has nothing whatsoever to do with welding someone's butt.

The reason why the initial weld has to be ground flush is so that the doubler plates fit tightly up against the frame. The doubler plates then have to be fillet-welded all around, so there is no gap anywhere for moisture to penetrate behind the doubler plate.

After both doubler plates are welded on, coat the whole area with the same type of coating that's on the original steel, whether that's a paint or brush-on galvanizing.

While you're at it, right after the welding is done would be a good chance to remove any other visible corrosion and reapply the protective coating on the steel. As long as you've got rust, the problem will never completely go away; it will just move to a new spot.
__________________
I thought getting old would take longer!
Protagonist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2012, 07:29 AM   #14
Rivet Master
 
2005 22' International CCD
Buckhorn , Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,449
Blog Entries: 5
Thanks Protag...

I guess the issue is two fold - one the split frame and two the age old toddler question WHY?

I doubt the corrosion as it is surface as you can see all the paint has not gone yet - wink.

From what has been said about these frames - it is known fact that the design is flawed. So the bigger issue in my mind is HOW IS IT THAT PEOPLE LIKE MYSELF are left out in the dark about something a factory is fully aware of and is such a HUGE safety risk.

Sure I'm going to somewhat professionally (kick and scream) to have this covered by someone. Total different story if it were purely out of neglect or an accident or something - but this is not the case with any of these incidences. It is plane as day that is a accident waiting to happen - and there is a "fix" for it - but if that is not publicized how the heck does anyone find out about it if they are totally unsuspecting of what is going on under their trailer.

Yes mine is a little corroded and schedule for a complete underbelly maintenance - due to our winter roads and salt there is not much we can do - but to work on it every 3 years. This is my year and poof - good thing I have done what I have done. Or I don't think I would have ever taken it to someone and say...

Could you check the tire pressure, treadl, brakes, oh and by the way check the frame and all the outriggers for splits and cracks, wash the windows too please.
05ModPod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2012, 08:13 AM   #15
Figment of My Imagination
 
Protagonist's Avatar
 
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over , More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,873
Quote:
Originally Posted by GT1963 View Post
Thanks Protag...

I guess the issue is two fold - one the split frame and two the age old toddler question WHY?
Point taken. No arguments. I too think "Why" is good to know. However, being pragmatic by profession, I just recognize that fixing the broken frame gets you back on the road. Fixing the lack of communication doesn't get you back on the road, it just puts your mind more at ease.

My intent in my previous post was to point out that if you don't trust the broken frame for towing your unit far enough to get it fixed, you do have the option of fixing the trailer where it sits. And I hope I provided enough information to tell the repairman what you need and to tell if he did a good job when he's done.

As an engineer, I won't claim to be able to design a repair sight-unseen. All of the information I provided is meant as a guide for what a repair would include, not as a real certified design. You'll want a local repair shop that is competent in frame repairs to take a look at it and design the fix, more-or-less in line with what I described.

I think you could make a strong case for reimbursement of your out-of-pocket expenses if you get it fixed locally. Besides, it will cost less to fix the damage locally than to tow it somewhere and fix not only the original damage but also whatever else got bent/broken due to sixtyleven miles of towing on a broken frame.
__________________
I thought getting old would take longer!
Protagonist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2012, 08:45 AM   #16
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,128
That crack is a fatique crack and it is right where a crack should be if it were going to crack. It has been there a while as you can tell by the rusted edges. Empty the tanks and remove as much stuff from the back end as you can and pull it to the repair place. It is not going to get any worse pulling it a few miles. What does the opposite side look like? I would use a doubler plate that is taller than the beam and at least a foot on each side of the crack. I would make it 1/4" thick. The plates should have 45 degree angle cut to reduce stress at the weld. So the plate would have angles at both ends.

Perry
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2012, 08:59 AM   #17
Rivet Master
 
2005 22' International CCD
Buckhorn , Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,449
Blog Entries: 5
Hi Prog - yes your post was excellent and I have printed it off.

My real big issue is that I can't just give up my trailer - as I am living in it until I sort out what to do with the rest of my life. Ha perfect timing. May have to head back to the house with it - and kick the GT out of the RV garage and get my baby in there for repairs if possible.

But I seriously do not want to tow this anywhere! one good bump and that baby could rip apart and do some serious damage inside and to my tanks as well - thus far it is a good catch - so I'm not about to temp fate even further.

My first pics were of - OMG look at that - snap with iphone fast before a tornado comes (yes actual warnings last night) and takes my evidence away..

So here are some more photos taken well as they should have been. All I have done is wipe the area with a damp cloth. The one cross member is really rusty it is the one that sits behind the rear wheel and takes all the salt and usually is the first to be replaced on trailers of any kind up here in the snow.

I can now also see that there was a hair split on the frame where the cross member welds. Now if I had been given a warning or at least the PO - then I could have got that kit and had it repaired before THIS!

Enjoy the photos - kind of scary.
Click image for larger version

Name:	_DSC9792.jpg
Views:	196
Size:	546.2 KB
ID:	163365

Click image for larger version

Name:	_DSC9795.jpg
Views:	194
Size:	422.7 KB
ID:	163368

Click image for larger version

Name:	_DSC9794.jpg
Views:	193
Size:	510.9 KB
ID:	163367

Click image for larger version

Name:	_DSC9796.jpg
Views:	192
Size:	496.9 KB
ID:	163369

Click image for larger version

Name:	_DSC9793.jpg
Views:	172
Size:	516.0 KB
ID:	163366

Click image for larger version

Name:	_DSC9791.jpg
Views:	184
Size:	579.7 KB
ID:	163364

Click image for larger version

Name:	_DSC9797.jpg
Views:	178
Size:	317.4 KB
ID:	163370

I have not checked anything else right now - I would have to drill out the under panels to even see the outriggers - but I bet my bottom dollar the door ones and along that whole side are pouched.

No sign of splits or cracks on the road side - as people have indicated it has all the weight and has more structure. So even adding a bit of extra weight with the L-seating would not have made any different - Ha it is probably holding it together.

So how did this happen.....

These guys did it.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_1662.jpg
Views:	199
Size:	730.4 KB
ID:	163371
Just kidding - but heck if I get told any stupid dumb "blond" jokes about how "I" did this from neglect or cause it is rusty - then I certainly will give it right back - Like "how do I know that "you" guys did not do this jacking it up by my rear and beating me with a hammer?"

Still think this is so serious of a safety risk - enough that the Public should be warned much better than they are and THOR has an obligation in their Ethics Policy to do so.

My Rig not only has "airstream" on it - I also drive around with THOR - and if someone from that company can not afford to take of the little guy then hum...

Give me a fix kit - help me out - but also save this happening by spending a bit of money on some administration! and get in touch with your customers! Yes they wont find them all - but they will find more than less.
05ModPod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2012, 09:11 AM   #18
Master of Universe
 
Gene's Avatar
 
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 11,868
GT', I know this is a bummer and right now it is hard to feel good about having discovered it before it got worse. I believe it to be fixable, but others know far more than me about welding, I take comfort that they believe the same thing. The trailer frame can be jacked slowly to take the dip in the inside out and everything should slowly go back in place.

About the rivets holding the belly pan—the holes in the pan are almost as big as the rivet heads. Vibration slowly eats away the metal in the pan because the difference between the rivet head and pan hole is so small. I've had about 5 or 6 rivets do the same thing. I replaced them with stainless steel screws and washers. I drilled out the rivets starting with a pretty small bit and gradually changed to a bigger one til the rivet fell out. It can take some doing to get it out. Then go to the hardware store and get screws that will fit in the hole—same size or slightly bigger plus a washer that fits on the screw and has a fairly large outer diameter. Then screw it in. This is another design defect.

I discovered it when we were replacing 2 brake plates a year ago and I was under the trailer while lewster was replacing a brake plate. Then there were three, this year there were 2 or 3 more. I keep some screws and washers with us in case more pop on the road. While I'm under the I check the wing nuts holding the stabilizer feet on because they can get loose.

So, it is a good idea to crawl around under the trailer from time to time looking for problems. You'll have to clean the rust off the frame and repaint it (after the break is fixed).

In the US cars and trucks with safety defects are regulated and that's why there are recalls. But trailers aren't motor vehicles, so there is not regulation of trailers. I don't know what happens in Canada. Manufacturers send out service bulletins to dealers so that when someone has a problem that has been in a service bulletin, you may get a free fix, even after the warranty has run out. A design defect would be covered under product liability law after the warranty has run, but lawsuits on individual problems are usually more expensive than the fix costs.

Airstream has been dealing with broken frames on an individual basis. As fixes go, this is relatively minor and can be done by a good welder locally. It would be more expensive to ship the trailer anywhere than have it fixed at home or nearby. I would ask Airstream to pay for the fix of the frame and belly pan rivets. Offer to send them photos. If the first person you talk to in consumer relations doesn't help, ask to speak to the boss, Dave Schumann. I think his e-mail is listed in the Airstream website and he may be following this thread as he does watch the Forum.

Gene
Gene is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2012, 09:38 AM   #19
Rivet Master
 
2005 22' International CCD
Buckhorn , Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,449
Blog Entries: 5
Thanks Gene;

As mentioned of course it is a shock - more so to me thinking wow what could have happened while towing.

I had a similar scare with my GMC just after Christmas - the hub went on it - something also known by GMC but just never gets down to the little guy. One day I went to put my brakes on and almost went through the coffee shop window - so I went straight to a shop. Was not towing at the time - but was a few weeks earlier. Mechanic said to me good thing you were not on the highway - I asked why - he said because the speed would have broke the hub in this condition - they go really fast and take the brakes with it just as fast. I went cause I heard my brake all of a sudden rubbing weird on the way to school - Peter had the truck for several weeks and did not say anything or he may not have even noticed. Then I said to mechanic - never mind going down the highway I'm glad I was not towing with it as well!

I'm still working on replacing the brakes but since I have that side apart - I will be calling the Factory and asking for the next steps. I will get some quotes this end and find out the opinions to see if she can be towed down our low speed roads to a shop near by. I just don't know anyone here or their reputations. But I have a great fellow at the camp here that owns his own shop and is coming to have a look. And I will get some facts and stuff before I go (ha half cocked at Airstream).

I'm not into all this law suit stuff - gets people no where - just lining lawyers pockets and giving companies bad names. Airstream is obviously aware of this and now so am I. No harm has been done but it has to be fixed and it is a matter of identifying where liability rests. I think that is pretty easy to determine here so I am sure I will be taken care of one way or another.

I happen to be a customer with a problem and hope that they will be true to their own customer satisfaction ethics.

Even this would still not deter me from buying an airstream - love em and that is that. Would not tow anything else. Even with a broke frame
05ModPod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2012, 10:21 AM   #20
banjobill
 
wmarsha's Avatar
 
2000 30' Limited
battle ground, , Washington
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 516
known defect forum?

I had read about the 22 cracked frame stuff before, even read Paula's "...I hope I didn't send a lemon on down the line..." (paraphrased) comment on that thread. I made a mental note of not owning 22 footers. Now, there are many classes of problems with Airstreams. Some are simply age related. Oh? And just what is age? It is easy to say: "Age is easily defined-any trailer over 25 years old." (as an example). But, a 25 year old trailer may have been towed only 1500 miles a year, whereas someone like Moosetags puts that many miles on in a month. So usAGE (emphasis supplied) also enters the equation when trying to determine age related troubles. I have read about the Beatrice years of frame troubles and rear end separation, as well as filiform corrosion and the softness of the new(er) trailer's aluminum skin making for easy dents (I currently am staring at an $8500 dent in my outfit). So, what to do? I am suggesting a section under "technical" that would list known defects that affect a large number of trailers/motorhomes. There could be sub categories indicating a) assumed factory defects b) age related defects c) mileage related defects d) others? Each could have sections indicating the appropriate owner reactions/repairs. Perhaps this section could attain "STICKY" status, which I believe would keep it at the top of the technical section. I am not very computer literate, or I might consider attempting to build such a section myself. Perhaps CrawfordGene might be interested? Or? Shoot, where is 2air when ya need him? Actually, for all I know, this already exists; but if it does, why isn't it out where newbies and ding-bats like me (and GT1963) can easily see it?
ol' aluminum basher Bill
ps:there is my vanity plate: ALbashR after 3 trailers and a number of years!
__________________

wmarsha is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:38 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.