Ok this is JUST NOT FUNNY!!!

[05ModPod]

So after much deliberation on what to do to level the slopped area in front of the door so that my cabinetry will sit level and the flooring is compensated, without a drastic difference at the threshold.

I choose to use wood. As the slope was in four directions it required quite a bit of patience and puzzle piecing.

I had seen where you can use roof shingles to level but this area was too small and they are horrible to work with.

To do one piece of wood would have beeen too hard for me to plane and sand because if the slight changes in the degree of the slopes to left right and front back.

So a combination of 4ply, 2ply and cedar shims, with heavy duty grade construction glue and screws for the 4 ply piece, a ladies touch with the sanding, planing and more sanding, with a dash of edge feathering and poof- I am a happy camper.


I have filled the holes where the old table mounts were, there were two. Yes their is support pieces under the holes as well.



I put in a Lagun swivel table that mounts to the side of the couch at the desk end. Gives so much more room and nothing to trip over, a cleaner look and I don’t have to remove and store the pedastool and table to pull out the bed.

I’m happy with the rear floor patch. Have a bit more resin to level out the joints and final sanding. The wet looking floor is resin. Resin also applied to all existing edges as well. The minor support pieces were also treated glued and screwed. The frame was grinded down and repainted - not shown, as the leak caused some surface rust. There is a new belly pan piece already cut to replace the one you see in the pic.




I will be ready to paint up the floor tomorrow 5 days ahead of schedule so it will be well and truly cured and dry for laying my new floor covering next week.

We had several days of rain last week and all leaks were solved before patching up the floor. My floor is now safe from any more rot. So glad that I needed to change my floor covering, or those leaks would have been undetected for how many more years.

[05ModPod]

Just as I was on a high, seeing that I caught the floor rot before it was a major headache.....

Slide under the trailer by the door to check out the wheel well liner to figure out why it pulled from the floor...(cheap scapes - only two screws secure it to the floor from underneath. Screws Stripped out of the crap OSB and gave way. (Probably compliments of NFLD roads.) Easy fix!

But then I saw this!



I’m not worried. A T stiffener can be welded on, to stay a complete break. I will get that done once the trailer is all put back together inside.

I also found the beginnings of a hairline crack in the rear frame stiffener JC supplied back in 2012, so will get that welded up too. Along with a patch weld on the street side outrigger forward of the front wheel to cover a rust threw hole forward of the stiffener outrigger arms that should have been longer in the first place.

As someone may notice where that crack is, some bozo jacked my rig up on the frame rail rather than the axle plate. Dented the frame. There is also a bottle jack crease in the banana wrap just ahead back if the door , probably their first attempt 😬 . I’m thinking that was the mobile RV guy in Montana in a parking lot replacing a fried brake magnet back in 2009.

Whether the dent had a contributing factor - not sure. But my guess is not. I think the stiffeners should have been applied front and back of this tandem axle with poop frame and not just in the rear.

The penny just dropped, why I actually had a rear stiffener on street side applied during manufacturing, and not on the curb side that cracked. I thought they just forgot- nope. They just applied them to whatever side the galley was. Another short cut, what would it have taken to do both side ps from the get go.

[05ModPod]

Still moving along.

Anyone have a suggestion on replacing the floor screws. I have three in the centre frame rail that just spin so I guess they are stripped.

They are in the highest traffic spot. Can you just get a larger thickness, or drill new pilot holes and use the same size?

Now I know why my floor squeaked.

Floor painted but flooring did not arrive. So that is on hold till next week.

Waiting on quote to weld her up in three spots, as well as completely changing out my brakes and bearings. Think I will get them to install two pieces of flashing underneath.

So moving on to reattaching the wheel well liner. Fix corners on the grey tank. Grind and paint any exposed frame.

Then work on the fantastic vent interior corner screw cracks. Good thing I know how to work with fibre glass and resin.

[Wabbiteer]

I'd bypass the OEM floor fasteners - simply sister in companion screws adjacent... The winged self-drilling screws would be adequate, snap the wings off and pre-drill the plywood, will need to countersink the face, let them find their own way through the steel or use a very small pilot hole - the way they push metal around when forming the threads doubles the thickness and strength of the bite.

Sorry to hear of the frame flaws, kind of no/low words on the subject other than 'go get 'em!'

I had a Joe Somewhen jack dent in the ladder frame aft of the right side axles - dropped the right side of the bumper almost three inches once I'd lifted the shell off, the 'pleat' it added deflected the overall droop that much. Jacking the bumper end up and much tinkering and unbending the dent erased about 70% of the droop...

[05ModPod]

Originally Posted by Wabbiteer

I'd bypass the OEM floor fasteners - simply sister in companion screws adjacent... The winged self-drilling screws would be adequate, snap the wings off and pre-drill the plywood, will need to countersink the face, let them find their own way through the steel or use a very small pilot hole - the way they push metal around when forming the threads doubles the thickness and strength of the bite.

Got here done, had to counter sink a bit because I used hex nut with flange self tapping metal screws. I sistered two at the curb side as that would have more flex by the wheels and on beside the other two centre and close to galley. Glued the originals back in place, counter sunk them a bit and filler to make floor smooth.

Pic shows new screws in place.

[05ModPod]

...and just in case the next owner does not like my choice of flooring, or my baby becomes a vintage treasure 10 years from now, provided someone in the future does not keep up with sealing maintenance, as I have fixed all the unseen leaks, and they want to do a full monty then they will know where the floor screws are. I marked them with blue dots.

[05ModPod]

Airstream quality control never ceases to amaze me!!!

My upper cabinet has come loose by the door, which is understandable, with the miles and roads I have travelled. Just like a few rivets here and there need replacing once and a while.....I can live with that knowing how these babies flex.

I have lived with a poor quality issue from the day I picked her up. An annoying piece of wood that never sat flush at the back of the cabinet. So after 13 years, having needing to tighten the loose screw the mystery has been solved. However the find is utterly disappointing, and just simply careless and shoddy workmanship!!!

I bet if I took this to a dealer, they would say, oh it shook loose, because of your frame break, or maybe...it pulled loose because your floor has a slight slope....

The real reason, is the cabinet was not made correctly on the bench at the factory. Check for yourself.

The wood piece showing, is supposed to be flush with the white melamine.



You can see the screw completely missed



And the next one too



And 12 more!!!

The two end screws are correct.

This pic shows the piece pulled in, so you know if built correctly is would have hit the mark.



You ask, how is that possible? This next picture is basic cabinetry skills, they drilled the counter sink holes to line up with the cross support pieces. Maybe it would have helped if they actually put the screws in to draw tight the long piece in which 14 screws missed.



So I guess I will do their job for them, and the next owner will not have to worry.

Sorry pics are upside down. Par for the course.

[05ModPod]

This forum is awesome with so many helpful people out there. I got the cabinet all sorted out and back in place, another item checked off my massive list.

I was in a major panick yesterday as the flooring is delayed now till this Friday, 2 1/2 weeks late, so now my SIL will be gone on holidays and can’t lay it for me.

My welding shop is two weeks behind so they can’t get her in for the three welds and change out my brakes.....but at least they gave me a name of a fellow who they use for overload. Has his own shop. Have a date Monday not sure if he does brakes, so will order the parts and may have to change them out myself ug.

Flooring shop is trying to find me someone to lay it, so I can take it in on Mond Or Tuesday to their shop. They can pay for it or charge the supplier. They forgot to put it on the truck and could not courier it. So don’t think it is fair that I should have pay that bill as I was getting it done free. As it is I am stuck with $200+ in flooring off cut because this stuff only came in 12ft widths.

The floor repairs turned out great. Nice and level at the back and front of wheel well now.


Anyone think of a reason not to put a bead of tempro along the edge of the skin and floor to avoid any moisture from the wicking under the floor going to the edges?

It is a cool vinyl product if it works....wicks moisture to the edges for evaporation. Hence why I sealed the whole OSB floor. But can’t seal under the skins.





Got the wheel well liner screwed in nicely and re sealed it up. I saw that I could take the bottom piece out of the closet so the floor can be cut in under the water heater and be nice and neat. So that spot is painted up too. Only the curve of the cabinet shows once the front bed is back in place. So need to sort out a trim piece for their to allow for expansion and contraction.

The flooring will slide under the night table, and furnace. Where the cabinets mount to floor they recommend cutting the floor to allow it to float. Under the bed they said the would cut circles whe the bed frame screw get drilled through the supports to the floor.

Any ideas for flexible floor trim moulding? Will need black, and chrome or silver. For a few places, under the desk, around the shower base and the the closet.

Now to tackle the paralex converter change out with the upgraded one. Work on fixing the fantastic interior trim piece. Then get under neath and start cleaning up the surface rust.

[05ModPod]

On the home stretch getting things put back in.

One little project is replacing missing rivets. 27 all toll. But not all at once, every once and a while one or two come out...and I say must replace that. But as my hands get weaker I’m so afraid using the manual riveter. Last one I did it moved and put a tiny scratch on my ceiling arg!

I don’t have a compressor, not that I would carry one of them with me. So did some research on drill attachments. Most had bad reviews, plastic bodies that failed. Then I found this one.


Well I tell you it is the cats meow!! My impact wrench works perfect.

While on the job of filling holes. A long time ago now we removed the dinette table and put in bench seating. The number of times I’ve caught my knuckle on the empty holes reaching to pull the cushion down to make up the bed.

So cleaned up the holes, and started filling the with new rivets. Counted out four, and then poof, another great bit of AS FAC. Workmanship.



Count with me....1-2-3-4.



Sorry my portrait pics are coming in sideways, ha par for the course it is how I feel these days working on the floor lol.

Guess they measured wrong. Got the extra ones in so still neater than holes but Good thing it is behind the cushions.

Have the desk unit to put back in and the bumper back, then hopefully off to the welder tomorrow.

Then put the rest of the bed platform, mattress, and side couch unit. Still working on fixing the inner wheel well cover. They must have cut it to fit under the original dinette wood cover. I want it not to sag and let cold air in. I think the flange was riveted to the wall, so have to make a small bracket out of aluminum, rivet it to the WW cover and then to the wall using existing rivets holes, I will drill out.

[rmkrum]

Ok, details on the riveter attachment, please! I have an air operated one but an accessory for my identical drill would be handy on the road...

[05ModPod]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Ok, details on the riveter attachment, please! I have an air operated one but an accessory for my identical drill would be handy on the road...

I got off amazon.ca $102 plus tax and shipping, but you can get it cheaper in the states, everything is cheaper in the states

Here are photos of the unit in it’s cute carry case and details on what’s included.

It is made of CNC machined from solid billet aluminum and features durable bearings. Sure beats all the plastic versions.

Yes I know made in China, but I’m over looking that based on quality, ease of use, compact and gets the job done oorahh! This along with my Kreg jig saved me lots of headaches, oh yes and that squirley drill attachment has come in very handy putting back the cabinet pieces. Sure wish I remembered I had that earlier when I was removing the stuff.

[rmkrum]

Perfect. Many thanks for sharing the data...

[05ModPod]

Well two months of day in and day out repairs and maintenance and almost ready to hit the road... I count myself lucky in the the only two boo boos I did.

One which really ticked me off. Put a drill hole right through my fresh tank - while fixing the the rusty tank cover corners. I was in such an awkward position under the trailer - yes I knew I should have had a collar on the bit but I have never made that mistake before!!! but I have now UG - now I have to cut a square out of the cover to access the hole. I have read all sorts of repairs - so just need a temp patch as I mostly don't use the water from that tank anyway and when hooked up to city water not an issue. As I will need new tank covers this fall - I will either take the tank and have it plastic welded or buy a new one - when I take the old tank covers off and have new ones made.

I do my own brakes - yep do that too LOL - so had a brain fart. Each wheel I spent the time grinding the surface rust in that areas I could reach and got them all clean and repainted to stay the rust. So four days later I'm done. But thought yesterday I would make some headway and grease up and prepare the drums for installation - so I don't have to get my hands dirty twice. Well if I did not put the grease seals in without the inner bearing - OMG what a stupid mistake to make. That is when you know you are really tired and just want to be on vacation.

Tried to get the grease seals out - trashed one and said (&(*&(%## it. Grabbed the two drums and took them back to the shop and had them take them out and put the already grease packed bearings in for me so I would not make the same mistake twice - that one only cost me $7.00 but the fresh tank is going to be more UG.

I could not for the life of me get the new propane line in so decided to hook up and take that to the RV guys who serviced my fridge - they tested everything and put in a new line for me - all good - very happy camper.

Just have a few little items left to install - privacy screen at the night table and mount the converter. Make an aluminum flange in the fridge compartment - another pour design that has the sub floor sitting higher than the ledge behind the fridge vent to allow water from the vents to seep into the main floor - hence the floor rot repair there.

Load up the trailer, give her a good wash and hit the road hopefully by Monday. I will be so glad to see the back end of all theses issues. Still have a few more to take care of before winter - but no time now -want my summer vacation!!!!

[Gene]

Glad to hear you are finishing. Everyone makes mistakes and especially when tired. Sometimes I even pay someone to do what I wanted to do, tried to do, screwed up, whatever—or just too tired to do it.

[Foiled Again]

BUMP.
For Mr P.