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Old 06-15-2019, 06:51 AM   #141
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Now Robert, that would have been the right road to have taken...JC has always had their own road.😂

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Old 06-15-2019, 03:20 PM   #142
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Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, I just can't believe all of the repairs you have had to make on your trailer. Do you have a big barn to park it in while working on it. I have the tools and ability, but no room to much of anything on my trailer.

Airstream should have replaced the floor with plywood and a total new frame on all of the trailers like yours.
I know it is pretty disheartening. Iím just glad for these forums and the help and multitude of threads with invaluable info and pictures.

It was hard to swallow the frame issue I only found out about back in 2012, while changing out the brakes and drums. To think JC was fully aware of the issue in 2002! And did not take proactive safety measures notifying registered owners. Oh well life is not perfect.

Did not know much about the floor issues and how bad some 02-04ís really are. I,m glad I have kept up with maintenance as I have, or it could be much much worse for the unsuspecting newbies out there. When I sell mine it will come with full disclosure.

Unfortunately all my work is having to be done out on the gravel driveway. So weather sure dictates my pace of completion and adds to the frustration. At least one good thing I donít have to run the well dry to do water tests.

I think my biggest frustration in how these babies are built is the uncanny lack of accessibility to known problem areas. Areas that need regular maintenance, and inspection for problematic water ingress locations.

We live in a world of disposability and lucrative profits made through service and warranty vs good long lasting products.

Still, I love this model and layout. With the side L seating modification it feels so open. Lots of room and functional.

I added the Lagun table rather than the drop in ones, as I only ever used one and no longer work in the trailer. Dropping it in and out started to become annoying as I got older it got stuck and bent after 9 years. I love the versitality of the Lagun. I made a wood kidney shape table that is much bigger that swings for diner and computer time and slides under the desk when not needed. If I need extra kitchen prep space it is great for that too. It pops off easy and sits on the front bed when travelling.
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Old 06-15-2019, 06:54 PM   #143
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Baby Steps....

So the Rain and errands did not allow for too much today...but I like to at least do one thing if I can each day.

After the reveal of rotted floor under the fridge - accessed from underneath it was time to tackle the plywood panel subfloor that is installed to hold the fridge.
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The compartment is lined with aluminum and I swear to you know who they used 50 tubes of that white adhesive sealant stuff, to patch it all together! I laughed though - so so so much sealant and yet none in the areas it really needed it - go figure. After an hour I got her loose and yanked it out.

You would think with all the wires and important plumbing this area would be somewhat easy accessed - nope (lets make it as difficult as possible so that the hourly RV Tech labour rate can be optimized!) I intend on making a support with a hinged top, so that if I or the next FO (future owner) continues with maintenance checks, just has to remove the fridge and cut the seal and lift up the subfloor to reach wires and plumbing.

My first look...
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Removed the vinyl flooring.. I was surprised that I have lots of solid floor left - but 15 more years from now this would be a frame off for sure.
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Off course the floor rot has to extend into the closet by 6-8 inches but solid floor under the water heater just discoloured on the top. I'm thinking though it will be easier to remove the water heater propane line and tackle it from underneath than it is to remove the closet!
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I have read recently that people are having a hard time filling the fresh tank - well so do I - it takes for ever actually has done for years. NOW I know why!

You cannot really tell by the photo - but the fill pipe bends over a cold water line - it is crimped, not to mention it is even more flattened with the fridge subfloor in place. Allowing only about a 1/4 inch of space for the water to get through. I will be trying to re-route that so there is a straighter run.
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After closer inspection I had thought that the HWH was leaking somewhere, but it turns out the whole leaking and floor rot has been relating to three things.

1. The water fill hose, that had a screw driver hole in it from the factory roll off - that was undetected by the PO but I had found it by accident through over filling the tank and water in the hose above the screw driver hole flooded out under the cabinet onto the floor. So I assume that every time we (and PO) were filling the fresh tank water would have been seeping through that hole. It was fixed the year I purchased it 2008.

2. Fridge drip hose, not attached properly thus expelling water directly to the floor, then dripping through the oversized hole for the propane line that was not sealed at the factory. Depending on the level of the trailer the water would have either dripped straight down or dripped along the floor to the front under the water heater. (Sorry don't have pics of this). But what I would like to do is have the tube so that it runs through and out somehow. I had found that issue a couple of years back from I first had issues with my fridge.

3. Pour fridge cabinet design not sealed against water ingress from the outside vents. The vents are large enough that on heavy rains or when traveling in a rain storm, water can easily come in from both vents into the back of the fridge compartment. Although there are drip holes in the skin fridge flange water would pool and puddle before making its way out. There was no flange of any sort on the subfloor and in fact mine had a great big gap/accesses to the floor under it - thus water would simply soak into either the edge of the plywood, as well as flow down the propane line hole onto the floor below and ROT!. As the wires were resting on the floor - it routed the water all these years toward the front along the street side wall. After 15 years of this I presume - the rot would start at the C-Channel and keep working it's way into the floor...That would be at a rate of approximately 1.5 inches of rot threw per year as it has rotted apron. 10 inches from the wall.

One thing I will need to check is to make sure none of the pex lines are leaking - there does not seem to be any evidence of leaking but I will be firing up the city water and fresh tank, and water heater to be sure.

Well here is hoping that I have solved all the leaks. After sealing the bumper - it is now NOT leaking YEAH!

The small leak by the door (Left side) was from the lower rub rail - sealed and now not leaking. The right side I believe was coming from the awning rail - now dry too.

I do have a small leak in the front. I had corrected the left side when down in Florida. This one just popped up after I decided to take the pano window guards off and let the windows have a good soaking with the rain we are having. I removed the inside coping to see that the window seals themselves need re-sealing from both inside and out.

I will also be taking off the front centre guard and re-attach with butyl tape. The window outside frame seals will all be re-done as well. By the time I am finished she will be sealed up like a boat.

Just a note - this is not poor workmanship well mostly not. The sealant does not last for ever, lichen sticks and grows minute roots that eventually penetrate the best of seals. It retains moisture and then tiny holes form that we can not see - thus little water hi-ways to the inside of the trailer. These leaks (Windows, rub rail marker lights, vents etc.) are all recent and expected on my maintenance schedule. It is just the bumper issue leaking UNDER the rub rail and under the metal plate at the frame rail - it makes sense that water will flow through the piano hinge and stick to the underside of that metal plate as well. I have sealed the whole compartment.

The poor fridge compartment that someone like me just would not suspect or have a way of checking it without having to do some major interior removal. For me this is all a result of not standing the crappy puckered vinyl flooring any longer!

I have less than 6 weeks to get her all sealed up, repaired and put back together before I hit the road again.....
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Old 06-15-2019, 11:49 PM   #144
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Hi, picture number five reminds me of my trailer. The very first time that I filled my fresh water tank, there was a small lake on my floor. The problem was; when Airstream trimmed the vinyl flooring, they cut the filler hose too. I asked the dealer to just send me a new hose and I would change it myself.

Your filler hose bent over the PEX is just sloppy workmanship.

Hope you get it all done in time for your trip.
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Old 06-16-2019, 10:33 AM   #145
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You are making me even more glad we sold ours before more happened. I hope you get more dry days—it should only rain gently from 2 to 4 am.
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Old 06-16-2019, 06:47 PM   #146
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You are making me even more glad we sold ours before more happened. I hope you get more dry daysóit should only rain gently from 2 to 4 am.
My only regret is that I was going to sell and get a nice class B, when I needed a new Tow Vehicle. But decided to get the new truck and decide last summer, then Spring came.

I had just picked up the truck the week before. When the wind storm came I was worried about where to put the truck. If the wind got worse. Went in for dinner, wind picked up so was about to dash out hook up and park next door. Literally as I opened the front door I watched the tree fall.

I consider myself lucky, as I would be under the tree, and not only my trailer being damaged, the new truck as well. Not to mention what injuries I would have sustained.

It took the house main power line split the pole as well, took 10 days to get the power back.

For 100 footer, I got away pretty light on the damage to the trailer. No seals broke or windows or guards, a few scratches, and two panels. The cedar tree and power line saved the day.

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That kind of dictated, that ModPod was going to be mine for a few more years.

So may as well get her all spiffed up in good working order. Caught it before some major floor repairs. Lucky in that respect too by accounts on the forum of similar years. The appliances are still all in good working order save the fridge needs a new heat element.

For now I will push the dent out for a better seal. When Iím ready to sell she will be discounted, the repair quote.
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:53 PM   #147
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Dap flexible floor levelling compound?

I do think I am making progress, but wow is there ever a lot to do.

My list is 60 items thus far and I have knocked off 20 - so 1/3 the way and only 3 weeks to roll out.

Before I spend $100 on this floor levelling material, thought I would put the question out there.

Has anyone used the Dap wood floor levelling material?

As mentioned the break in my frame ordeal left a slight sag in my floor. It was most notable with the side couch structure that sat off the floor. As well near the door and part way on the night table in the front and under the desk toward the curb wall.

As I am laying new vinyl plank flooring I want the floor to look even again. It did not help having OSB flooring as it simply warped with the stress. If it was a sturdy floor like 3/4 ply it would not have warped so easily. Oh well no sense crying over spilt milk.

The welder jacked her up as much as he could when he did the welding job of the Factory stiffener/bracing kit - it is now only about 1/4 inch but had dropped almost an inch and a bit initially.

I am hoping that this flexible stuff will do the trick. All the other material is like concrete and I assume it would simply crack over time with the flex and bouncing of the trailer.

Any thoughts?
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Old 06-22-2019, 09:00 AM   #148
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Need some ideas on slopped floor issue please!

First the disclaimer. Yes my frame broke and the out riggers sagged 1/2 inch at the time of repair, but jacked up to install outriggers straight.

My end slide couch that sits by the door was the giveaway at the time with a gap forming. The other side of the wheel well not as noticeable because you donít see it just in front of the desk. But is same distance gap as front of wheel well floor see pic.

The forward part of the door floor is only 1/4 inch out and the night stand was still flush to the vinyl flooring. This sits 2 inches from door frame.

It is a bit of an anomaly as the stiffeners are straight. And there is no gap in the wood exposed underneath. The wheel well cover has pulled from the floor edge. But everything outside is still true and proper. The skin has not pulled away from rivets, nothing out of level even the door frame is still in place and no issues with door opening or closing.

So what is the best way to level up the area forward and aft if the wheel well for the purpose of getting floor cover level. I donít want to use sheet vinyl because it is no good in the temp swings. My original stuff puckered going through its first winter here. The plank vinyl has to be level or the joints will pull apart.

Any ideas??? How to fandangle these two small areas?
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Old 06-22-2019, 09:57 AM   #149
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I can’t answer your leveling problem, though be careful what you use isn’t too heavy, but as far as the sheet vinyl buckling, the problem is Airstream does not know how to install a floor. Any floor my should leave about 1/4 to 3/8 inch from every wall or cabinet to allow for expansion and contraction. Airstream installs the sheet underneath the cabinets and it buckles, especially in cold climates. You can cover the area between the cabinet and any flooring with 1/2” quarter round wood molding.
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Old 06-22-2019, 12:50 PM   #150
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I canít answer your leveling problem, though be careful what you use isnít too heavy, but as far as the sheet vinyl buckling, the problem is Airstream does not know how to install a floor. Any floor my should leave about 1/4 to 3/8 inch from every wall or cabinet to allow for expansion and contraction. Airstream installs the sheet underneath the cabinets and it buckles, especially in cold climates. You can cover the area between the cabinet and any flooring with 1/2Ē quarter round wood molding.
I totally agree with what you say. Iíve lived with the floor buckled at the counter and all the staples at the door pulled away showing the ugly OSB from the third month Iíve had it. Thank goodness the rest is under the bed night table and couch where you canít see it.

Maybe I should have my friends son (professional) lay the vinyl sheet and shim the bottom of the couch frame. It would have made more sense for them to at least anchor at the door and install floating trim on the cabinet side. But nothing with AS makes sense.
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Old 06-22-2019, 02:33 PM   #151
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Not sure if this applies - on my '73 the axle mounting plate itself had pulled away from the ladder frame rail - looked like the assemblers failed to double up or finish more than tack welds when sistering the two plates together...

Then out-of-round running gear, dukes of hazard jumps and rust and worse druff had accumulated heaving the plate (with lightening holes in it) away from the boxed 'C' frame above the axles...

Which, since the outriggers were only welded to the wombly plate not the ladder frame, duly succumbed via stealth geometric treachery thusly LOWERING the floor all along the axle area something dreadful.

Photo is after trimming all outriggers, joining them with a genuine top weld too, and imbuing the gap between steel plates with oodles of POR-15.
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Old 06-22-2019, 03:05 PM   #152
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Wow Wabbiter that was nasty, glad you got her fixed up. I will get under further with trouble light and check the axle mounts. When mine was welded back in 2012, all was good around the mounting plates, but you never know what years of travel will do to these junk frames used in 02-04. Mine was built 07/04. Lots of 05íers donít realize there frames were the same as the infamous 02-03ís. They only started putting the stiffeners on some time late in the 04 manufacturing line, so I was told. And even then only on the rear bath and kitchen models, not the side galley and rear bath, desk models.
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Old 06-22-2019, 03:34 PM   #153
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After lots of grit and determination, I got the new pieces of floor in under the fridge. Had to do it in a few pieces, geometries is not forgiving, in getting into two channels at once.

For good measure I married the two small pieces by the propane line with a half inch piece underneath. The part that does not have the extra piece is supported by the channel and a frame member under the water heater as well as by the extra piece 7 inch overlap. I know probably makes no sense. Just well and truly secure and could take 100ís of pounds of weight which there is nothing of force in that area. Even the fridge weight is supported by a sub floor screwed to the cabinets with L brackets. No worries.
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The wood was all weather sealed and all joints, although tight, received a bead of tempro 635. Further once all dry, the compartment will be cleaned up and a coat of acrylic sealer will go down on all exposed wood top and bottom.

In one pic it looks like the floor is still rotten but it is solid just dirt discolouration from the wheel well spray that was getting up through the propane lines and the corroded belly panel in that area. Not to mention there is a hole in the outrigger beyond the stiffener. Why they donít make those stiffeners longer I donít know, just sractching my head at some of this logic???

Next step is to build a new subfloor for the fridge that will be hinged to access all those goodies, plumbing, wires, etc., in the future if need be.
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Old 06-26-2019, 09:37 AM   #154
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Floor Cover Choice

I am getting close, will have the subfloor all ready to lay flooring next week.

Lots of debate on flooring material and methods of installing. I think there is so many applications, types of use by owners, whether trailer is predominantly stationary vs always travelling, small units vs large units, that each application would be trailer specific.

Taking into consideration, what happened with my vinyl as it was installed originally- buckled, puckered stretch etc. And looking at various types of click lock vinyl. Listening to several flooring installers and manufacturers that indicate 1 it has to float, and 2 most all do not like vertical travel, that you get with the bouncing and flexing in a 22í going down the highway.

The issue with moisture in these trailers, either through, water ingress, spills, condensation the untreated OSB has to be sealed.

I guess it will be like laying an area rug, but in vinyl. This style is heavy enough to stay flat, with room to expand and contract. I will cut smaller pieces to fit under the night table, bed frame. Desk drawer and side couch frame. All inner edges will be trimmed out with shoe moulding, so no edges will be seen.

I am going with TruTEX by Tarkett. The under felt type material wicks moisture to the outer edges. So to stop moisture going further under the inner panels I will be running a bead of Tempro around the perimeter behind the trim that is fixed to the upper outer edges of skin and cabinets.

Sound like a good plan?

My big ? Is which design/colour. I have my favourite of the three, just curious as to what your choice might be.

I have three distinct colours in my trailer, white kit cabinets, SS appliances, bathroom, and couch base, with the black marble Formica in the kit cabinet, closet and side table. The base of the bed is white and of course the interior is aluminum.

Here are the three samples. The TruTex family is limited in patterns unlike other materials with countless patterns.

As the trim on the white cupboards matched the pine on the original flooring I will be changing that out to a different colour possibly SS or black.
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Old 06-26-2019, 10:48 AM   #155
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Looks like you found a flooring material to your liking and I don't have to look for a photo of the Karndean loose lay we used. I had it shipped from a vendor in Georgia and it was quite a bit cheaper even with shipping such heavy flooring than any prices I got in Grand Jct. Easy to Google "Karndean loose lay" if you are interested.
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Old 06-26-2019, 12:51 PM   #156
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Looks like you found a flooring material to your liking and I don't have to look for a photo of the Karndean loose lay we used. I had it shipped from a vendor in Georgia and it was quite a bit cheaper even with shipping such heavy flooring than any prices I got in Grand Jct. Easy to Google "Karndean loose lay" if you are interested.
Yes Gene I looked at you suggestion, and looked at the sample. The click design is similar to a Canadian product that is used in our three season cottages. As they are very hard and durable, the rep indicated that the bouncing above a certain force can break the click locks. As I travel in freezing weather, I thought it would not be a wise move. Although the flooring is great. And I really appreciated your suggestion.
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Old 06-26-2019, 11:24 PM   #157
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Hi, I think I like the lightest colored floor best.
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Old 06-27-2019, 03:39 PM   #158
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I'm glad you found what worked for you. The Karndean flooring I used did not click, it was loose lay. Their website was not all that easy to navigate, so finding the one we used may be difficult. But, it doesn't matter anyway.
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Old 06-28-2019, 10:40 AM   #159
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I think because of the sag I have (not me the floor - lol) the sheet vinyl will tolerate the slight slope better as well. Although I am building the floor up a bit at the door - there would be too much to make it level to the rest of the floor for a plank scenario. Even though I have a matt at the door there would be a slight difference either side - which would be noticeable.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this all works out.

For now I don't seem to have a problem with my tires or tracking - she tracks straight. But there is a 1 inch difference from Street side to Curb side - measured from the wheel trim to the top of the wheel rim. Now if it was front to back I would be freaking out.

I am lucky that my floor model compensates for this outrigger sag without much notice. There is only a 1.5 inch wall space on either side of the door. So will just be raising the floor slightly at the threshold - so that the side table and the couch base will sit level to the eye - and not have a gaping gap from bottom to the floor that I have lived with for some time now.

Bob - I am totally with you - love the light grey tile look - very clean and modern, that is what this model was all about when it first came out - to be a modern decor.
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Old 06-28-2019, 11:29 AM   #160
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I have used DAP on household floors. It is a good product that does what it says and is cheap and easy to use. But I do not know if it will work where there is a lot of constant flexing. I did use some in my trailer but it has not been on the road since.
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