Ok this is JUST NOT FUNNY!!!

[05ModPod]

Found my old thread, a side bar to the infamous 22fters, 02-05 frame and floor rot issues.

Wonder how others who still have their imperfect units are doing?

Just wanted to chime in.

After the initial shock of the frame break and outrigger sag that buckled the sheet vinyl and all been so annoying and frustrating at the time. Getting the frame patched with the factory repair kit and welded up firm before any further staging or cracking happened. Put it behind me and firged forward on some amazing adventures.

I can report that she has held up these past 7 years with no further incidents with over 50,000 miles of touring including 7k in Newfoundland. For those who have travelled that route the roads are a nightmare!!!!

Alas it is time to get rid of the vinyl flooring and sort out the annoying sag in the floor at the curb side.

I was expecting stage two of the nightmare being the floor rot. All though not completely Scott free of trouble spots I am greatly relieved. Only the curb side bumper at the main frame rail has had some leaking. So only need a small 6” patch where there is a dry rot hole. Phew!

Have some evidence of water ingress at the door corners, but floor still rock hard. Although it is slopped downward 1/4- 3/8 from centre level.

The inner wheel well cover has pulled away from the floor that was sealeald with vulcum.

Not related to the frame or the floor, have a leak I suspect from the awning mount or belt line/ rub rail.

I have had some issues with the front window area leaking, found one reason, the factory seal of the actual window was not complete so beads of water dripped through unsuspectantly for probably its whole life. Not the frame of the window or the window mount, but the seal of the glass to the class frame.

Lastly have some rot back of the water heater. So will need to yank that and sort out a nice patch there and figure out wat is causing it. Most likely failure if the butyl mounting caulk.

So my big fiddle job is going around the whole trailer and removing and replacing the dryed out sealant everywhere.

As for the floor drop, I think I will use dap flexible floor self levelling product. Most times in houses you can use the self leveling quickcrete product that goes over wood but no good for this kind of travel flex and temperature change that cause expansion and contraction. Decided to go with a top quality vinyl plank rather than sheet vinyl.

Upgrading my parallax 7300. Though it was toast, but after I moved it around and the battery disconnect at the night stand, poof she is working again . But tired of it cooking my batteries.

On a last note, I was always worried that my frame would have been twisted running into tire issues. Although my curb side wheel well trim sits closer to the tire compared to my street side, my tires ha e no issues, nor unusual wear.

Will keep this thread active as I go through my Fifteen year major overhaul.

[Gene]

Glad to hear you and your trailer are still functional, although it has been many years since you last posted on this thread.

We haven't been to Newfoundland since 2004 and many roads were quite bad and that was just with an SUV. I can't (and don't want to) imagine how they would be with a trailer. Nova Scotia was no prize either.

[05ModPod]

Hi Gene how goes the travels?

Oh my the pot holes were out of this world, I actually had more issues with my old GMC, trashed the power steering box, blew a pulley and trashed a front wheel bearing on a pothole at the St.Johns exit to Pippy Park. But not complaining was a trip of a lifetime.

Spent last summer in Nova Scotia. Yes their roads need work too. Looking to buy a place this summer if all goes well. So have 1.5 months to get all the work done on Ole’ ModPod.

Today finished off curb side awning rail, and 3/4 through removing the Wyngard antenna that never worked from day one. Even factory guys could not get it to lift and rotate back in 2008 when Paula did the hand off. It is a source of leaking so off to the metal pile it will go. It will free up space for future solar panels.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, good to hear that you are still traveling and enjoying life. We wanted to travel there too, but that is another sad story that I won't go into now. Trying to forget and move on.

[05ModPod]

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, good to hear that you are still traveling and enjoying life. We wanted to travel there too, but that is another sad story that I won't go into now. Trying to forget and move on.

Hi Bob,

Nice to see some "Ole" names still on the Forum. How is you 05 holding up? Any major issues with your safari?

Sorry to hear you have not wanted to travel as you had hoped. Life has a way of throwing curve balls - that is for sure.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Originally Posted by 05ModPod

Hi Bob,

Nice to see some "Ole" names still on the Forum. How is you 05 holding up? Any major issues with your safari?

Sorry to hear you have not wanted to travel as you had hoped. Life has a way of throwing curve balls - that is for sure.

Hi, other than a few outside cosmetics, our trailer is still as good as new. With the use of Lock Tite, [cabinet hinges] and longer screws, [wooden walls] I have fixed minor problems inside of my trailer.

[Gene]

Some of us are travelers and love to go far and wide, but two things get in the way for us—aging makes it harder to travel thousands of miles to get to a destination and it sure costs a lot—my rule of thumb is a dollar a mile. With health insurance, drugs and other costs going up much faster than inflation, travel is more a luxury than it used to be. The port for the ferry to Newfoundland is 3,500 miles from home (so is Fairbanks), so Newfoundland and Alaska are major investments of time and money. We've traveled to every state except Hawaii (waiting for the causeway) and all 10 provinces of Canada and 2 or 3 Canadian territories (the 3rd one, Nunavut, has no roads to it), so we have lots of memories we cherish.

[05ModPod]

Originally Posted by Gene

Some of us are travelers and love to go far and wide, but two things get in the way for us—aging makes it harder to travel thousands of miles to get to a destination and it sure costs a lot—my rule of thumb is a dollar a mile. With health insurance, drugs and other costs going up much faster than inflation, travel is more a luxury than it used to be. The port for the ferry to Newfoundland is 3,500 miles from home (so is Fairbanks), so Newfoundland and Alaska are major investments of time and money. We've traveled to every state except Hawaii (waiting for the causeway) and all 10 provinces of Canada and 2 or 3 Canadian territories (the 3rd one, Nunavut, has no roads to it), so we have lots of memories we cherish.

Wow Gene sounds like your travels have been amazing Yes I hear you on both accounts, age and money. But we just have to compensate the best way we can. Lots of little trips and take things slower. The more I rush the more pulled muscles and cuts I get

Have made lots of trips to various parks and meet ups. But they sure do add up as well. Made a nice trip to Missouri last year to visit family. Head south to get out of the winter for six weeks. Any time away from snow ice and cold is heaven.

This year is maintenance and repairs on ModPod for June and July and off to Nova Scotia and PEI Aug-Oct.

[05ModPod]

I do feel like I am making progress, but already feeling overwhelmed. As they say tackle one thing at a time.

Got the desk, side pull out couch, released the night table and removed the bed frame and hamper. All safely stored in the basement or now. Pulled the inner wheel well cover. Yanked the fridge out ready to go in for service AGAIN. I think this time I have an electrical heat element issue that keeps tripping. I need it out of the way to work on the wet floor under the water heater, not sure yet how bad that is.

I thought my wining rail was cause of leak coming in through my roof AC. So removed sealant and went with a strip of eternabond this time. Neater and a better all round seal. Could never understand the logic of a drip rail, when every 6 inches there is a blob of sealant, blocking water flow and filling up with debris.

Was going to move to the other side, but 24 hours of heavy rain put a hold on that. I had the trailer dried out nicely even the problem at the back.

But now need to concentrate on the back floor before it gets worse. May as well go all out and get a better drip rail system for that poor bumper plate design that allows water to run right into the floor. I am lucky that it only seems to have effected the curb side.

No need for overkill floor replacement, but the whole punch test did give me a bit more than the 6” I originally thought. No worries, I have done floor patches on various vintage trailers and boat transom patches with fibreglass inlays with great results. Just very time consuming.

Frame has surface rust but still good and solid. Will get all that treated before I close her up again.

This first pic was from a few days ago when the vinyl floor first came up. Went around marking spots. Fans and heater, two days of hot weather. Did some good drying.


This next pic is part way through, cutting out the dry rot. I lucked out. No floor bolts and have the main frame rail, and the cross rail to support the new piece.



As many already know this is the culprit area. There is another thread by a member who put in a fabricated drip rail behind the rub rail that sat on top of the bumper plate.

I will be doing a similar fix. So will be taking off the rub rail. My problem right now is the expected four days of rain. So at least now with the inside cut out the water will just come in and right back out through the belly pan.

[perryg114]

There is a hidden bolt in that corner where the main frame rail goes under the back of the trailer where it meets the crossmember. This is an important connection to the shell. You can gain access to the top of the bolt by removing the inner skin which is easy. The bottom can probably be accessed from the hole you have there.



Perry

[05ModPod]

Originally Posted by perryg114

There is a hidden bolt in that corner where the main frame rail goes under the back of the trailer where it meets the crossmember. This is an important connection to the shell. You can gain access to the top of the bolt by removing the inner skin which is easy. The bottom can probably be accessed from the hole you have there. Perry

Hi Perry,

Are you talking about this, looks like a 1/4 inch pin with a white sleeve? If that is a bolt, I’m not touching it. I will wedge the new inserted piece and tie it all in. Will probably pin the floor piece with two metal screws to the open long frame rail. Nothing too invasive, as that corner is good and sturdy with the remaining floor and location of the cross frame. Have some more wood to pick out yet and clean the whole area too.


As for removing the inside skin that is a great idea and ran back outside with my hopes up.

Unfortunately that is not going to happen. I’m handy for a gal but know way am I taking out the galley and shower unit


The bolt falls behind the panel joint. The right panel runs behind the shower unit. The other panel as you can see might be easier, ha for an electrician. I am avoiding anything with wires.

Unfortunately I cannot afford the labour rates around here either even for a handy man, and not all handy men are created equal either So it will be the very best of my DIY skills, but certainly better than just ignoring it and laying floor over top and pretend I never saw anything

The key will be sorting out the exterior rub rail and bumper plate so it does not leak anymore.



I have the open desk model, so even releasing a few rivets to get at that bolt will most likely put a bend, dent or crease in the panel. (I have enough dents outside I would hate to have to look at more inside )

I have seen some cut a loop half moon from the skin at the floor base, again that is okay if it sits behind beds or cabinets but this is open for all to see.

Any advice or input is greatly appreciated. With the repair I’m doing do you really thing it is going to be that detrimental?

[05ModPod]

So this is what I meant about the drip rail and awning rail on the roof.

I have had so much debri and ice get caught in both sides. The water sits forever. I am lucky it has not leaked, but now sure one more year and it would have.

When I bought the trailer from Paula, we had it at the factory. They said thy sealed everything- yes they did right over top of the original, blobs.



I’m no expert but that is the crappiest caulking job I have ever seen. The stuff underneath was not much better.

Hoping the eternabond tape will hold up as it indicates. It has had great reviews, as long as it is applied correctly. I’m going to run a finger line at the edge just to be on the safe side....pics to follow when done.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, I have no experience at all with Airstream floor replacement or repairs, but maybe you could use a hole saw to gain access to the mounting bolt. Then rivet a round patch over the hole. I would rather do this than to remove an entire inner panel.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, as for the roof caulking, the people at Airstream sure aren't cake decorators. It's horrible looking and won't seal any better than a nice job.

[Gene]

Some of the caulk on our Nash is pretty sloppy too. One place on some Airstreams to watch is where the awning supports are over an aluminum seam. On ours there were an upper and lower support just back of the door and over a seam. I can’t remember if that was also true of the front awning supports. Of course the supports could not be flat against the body and since there were screws into the body, there were extra pathways for water. When I pulled up the cheesy vinyl sheet flooring, there were water stains on the subfloor. I removed the supports and used two types of sealant—one under it and another around it. That solved that leak.

I pulled up all the sheet vinyl I could including underneath cabinets, sealed the subfloor with a couple of coats of exterior polyurethane and used a loose lay vinyl plank flooring. I can’t remember the brand, but the company was British. With loose lay you can easily pick it up to check for leaks. They have a ribbed backing to reduce movement, but the seams would sometimes show and I would push it back in place. Looked great.

[05ModPod]

I think I’m going to be 90 by the time I get all that has to be done finished

One step at a time. It just sucks we are having a rainy June thus far. So I can only do a couple things at once and get them sealed back up.

Today was the street side drip railing, kitchen vent and finish getting the Antenna mount off.

As mentioned I thought I would give the eternabond tape a try. I can only get the 4” here at a whopping $112.00 for 50ft roll. So cut it in half as 4” on the drip rails is over kill.

I started with the awning rail first, took a bit getting used to getting it on straight, but got the hang of it. On the cut edge there is a bit of guck, but after the rainy days subside I will clean that up and finger a layer of Dicor to finish it off, not that I or anyone else can see it ha ha, just like to be neat.





Dang that Antenna mount was tuff to get off. Only time I wish I had man hands and strength. Yes I made a boo boo and made one of the screw holes bigger with prying with a screw driver.

That is just a temporary cover and sealed the holes. Will see what the budget is like to get a new digital compact replacement. Hope the replacement has a similar footprint, so I won’t need to fabricate a new sheet.

So did not want to spend too much time making a nice cover plate. Needed something quick, rain starts at midnight for four days!!!

If I can’t swing a replacement I’ll go back up clean it all off again repaint so the scuff marks don’t corrode and get a plate made up using the old mount as my template.

Left a bit of coax to join to if needed but think new wires will be run.

[05ModPod]

Originally Posted by Gene

Some of the caulk on our Nash is pretty sloppy too. One place on some Airstreams to watch is where the awning supports are over an aluminum seam. On ours there were an upper and lower support just back of the door and over a seam. I can’t remember if that was also true of the front awning supports. Of course the supports could not be flat against the body and since there were screws into the body, there were extra pathways for water. When I pulled up the cheesy vinyl sheet flooring, there were water stains on the subfloor. I removed the supports and used two types of sealant—one under it and another around it. That solved that leak.

I pulled up all the sheet vinyl I could including underneath cabinets, sealed the subfloor with a couple of coats of exterior polyurethane and used a loose lay vinyl plank flooring. I can’t remember the brand, but the company was British. With loose lay you can easily pick it up to check for leaks. They have a ribbed backing to reduce movement, but the seams would sometimes show and I would push it back in place. Looked great.

On the list! I actually need to replace my forward lower arm mount as the cast aluminum is cracked. I too have evidence of a leak there.

After the rain I have two days of sun, so will move to the bumper and lower rub rail removal. Need to fashion an extra L channel and get that bugger really sealed up.

I don’t think my vents are leaking but going to go back up top and get them done too- not my plan to get up on that roof EVER again.

Do you have pics of your floor?

Have lots of work yet in various places. Put the dehumidifier in there, once the repairs are done, I too will seal the floor. There is not a trip goes by where a dog bowl has not spilled, windows left open, or the cat water bowl is not spilled on the desk, so sealing the top of the floor will safeguard those types of accidents.

I even had my fridge thaw and forgot to put my towel at the door, what a bloody mess I had, swelled the base of the closet and flowed to the bed corner on curb side and soaked up into the wood frame and sat for several days before I knew what had happened.

While I have it out might give all the wood a coat off poly too.

[Gene]

The floor brand Was Karndean. It is late and I can't look for a photo now, but I hope I remember after a couple of too busy days coming up.

[05ModPod]

Well moved to the next leaking mess. I happened to suspect this one when I was changing over my water heater this winter while de-winterizing, for our vacay in Florida. I dropped my glasses, had no power, was using a flash light. Saw a dark spot in the floor in the back corner where there was no linoleum. Poked it with a screw driver and went right through.

Fast forward to today.

I knew my belly pan needed replacing on the street side front so started there instead of removing the inside closet and fridge cabinet to get a glimps of how bad it might be.



OMG basically a section of the floor fell on my face as I removed the belly pan. YUCK. Nothing shocks me, but I did release a grumbled crap my job just got bigger!!!!

This pic is first glance.


Next two I pulled away the rotten wood back to solid. I will get in there and cut it straight for the new piece to go in.


I will need a metal shield as I cut. Lots of plumbing and electrical in the line of fire.

Good news is there is solid floor to tie to, and only one frame bolt is in play.

Bad news, the outrigger is not looking that great. There has been a stiffener installed and that is still good and solid. Hopefully a welder can tie into the good part. But deal with that after I sort out the floor. It’s pretty dirty under there so lots of grinding and cleaning to be done. It will all be rust treated and painted once repairs are made.

You can see my fresh water tank cover needs work too. Having new corners fabricated and will be riveted on like I did in the back ranks. No need for the full cover when only the corners have corroded.


Now to solve the water leak.....
Solved as soon as I saw the result underneath. Last year I pulled my fridge for service. There is a drip hose at the back, there is a drip pan and then a hose nub from the pan that goes nowhere but inside. The original hose was not attached. So my best guess, the fridge condensation from the drip pan inside has been released inside for the past 14 years. Dripping down the propane line hole that was never sealed at the factory either. Thus a torture drip onto the floor. That OSB floor just soaked it up and rotted year after year. The fridge compartment is all lined with aluminum heat shield I presume but the vulcum was all dried out and cracked so water was getting onto the floor mount as well all wet, but at it was 3/4 ply it held up, not the crap OSB under it. Stupid move on airstreams part to use that material. Yes it is strong but useless against water.

I’m thinking the plywood piece under the fridge can be removed so I can access the rotted out piece underneath it. I sure hope so, would save having to remove closet and fridge base cabinet. The floor will be repaired the same as the back. It is only a small piece with lots of anchor spots for continued support. Just real tricky to get at.


Received my first casualty, trying to get the fridge propane line off. Punched myself in the mouth with the wrench as it came loose

And when I pushed the line through the floor dang if I put a kink in it, so will need a new section made ug.

Advice for those who have the RM2352, pull the burner plate at the back and inspect your drip line, also check the sealing at the bottom of fridge compartment. I made a flange for mine last year as rain can come in vent cover and puddle. It was soaking into the plywood edge.


After this repair I will be pulling off the vent flange and fabrication a new flange, this is another poor design IMHO. As I found out more vulcum is not always going to work if there is stress and water it just pulls away or splits.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, I just can't believe all of the repairs you have had to make on your trailer. Do you have a big barn to park it in while working on it. I have the tools and ability, but no room to much of anything on my trailer.

Airstream should have replaced the floor with plywood and a total new frame on all of the trailers like yours.