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Old 10-17-2008, 08:29 AM   #21
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Givin the extent of wood rot, there was no "tension" left. The wood fell apart upon removal. I am going to wait a little bit on installing the new wood until I get the rest of the old out to inspect the frame. After reading some posts on frame rot, I would hate to dump a bunch of time and $$$ and get to the end to find out I need extensive frame repairs or even replaced. I will be removeing the FW tank and belly skin this weekend. I hope there is enough metal meat left to do some repair work.
Adam
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Old 10-17-2008, 09:12 AM   #22
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I believe if I don't get it under the wall very far, it will only create a headache later with stress.
I believe you would be better off in the long run if your new plywood subfloor did extend all the way under the c-channel at the base of the wall. All of the subfloor supports the walls (except for the piece between the wheel wells). That is why Airstream attached it with so many elevator bolts. Otherwise the only wall support you will have will be the outriggers which are not that stout.

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Vhord,

If you think that this one section will be OK like this, stop me before I pull it out.
Thanks
Adam
It might just be the lighting on your pictures but the plywood that you used appears to be treated. I would definitely not recomment any of today's treated lumber as it will cause corrosion problems with your aluminum and will even attact steel.
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Old 10-17-2008, 12:16 PM   #23
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Yes you are correct, it is treated. That is the first I have heard of it creating corrosion. Why is that? It is also the first time I have ever dealt with this much aluminum too. Wow, that sux. What do you recommend putting back in? I hope your answer is not "Marine Grade".
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Old 10-17-2008, 12:47 PM   #24
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It is true - treated will grow crystals out of your shiny metal shell. Do not feel bad, your are not the first to get a 'do-over' out of what seemed like the best idea. Note what you would do differently size wise, etc. and don't flinch - just R/R the pressure treated.

I went with one sheet of marine grade for back-bath floor, spent $85 and $40 for a gallon of Vinyl Ester resin to 3-cost seal both sides and edges. If I were to do it again I would call, and then drive around to the big box stores and private lumber yards and get the best quality 3/4" just under the 'marine grade' designation I could find; or try and talk a better deal on marine grade using two suppliers against each other as there is often 10% in that price negotiable for a cash sale...
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Old 10-18-2008, 08:17 AM   #25
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Yes you are correct, it is treated. That is the first I have heard of it creating corrosion. Why is that? It is also the first time I have ever dealt with this much aluminum too. Wow, that sux. What do you recommend putting back in? I hope your answer is not "Marine Grade".
Thanks
Adam
There are several threads on this subject. This one might help you with your decision. I am just glad you were not further along as others have been. I was lucky enough to discover this problem before I started mine.
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Old 10-19-2008, 09:20 PM   #26
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While in the process of removing the rear goucho and water tank, I found a little present left by the PO. It is a picture of one of their Boondockings with their TV. Great pic. I will try to attach it tommorrow. I am suprised it survived the animals and moisture for this long. Appears to be a '70 Chevrolet pickup with the 70 Tradewind. Too cool.
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Old 10-20-2008, 09:50 AM   #27
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Here is some progress pics and my treasure pic I found in the process.
Questions:
1. With the AS off the ground, there is minimal sag for the axles. I have been told they were SHOT. Mr. Andy, or other Pros, do ya'll thing they would make it to the Rally in San Antonio from Houston? Is there a less alternative to replacing them? (On a budget)
2. Mr. Andy, is there a less expensive way to replace/repair this water tank? There is a leak somewhere on the bottom.

All advice is MUCH appreciated.
Adam
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Old 10-20-2008, 11:22 AM   #28
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The 'sag' description can be alittle confusing. The difference I saw with my axles before/after replacment was before swapping I could run the front axle's tire up on a 2x6 and the rear axle's tire would almost clear the ground. Two 2x6's and the rear axle was high enough for me to change the tire.

With the new axles the same process required three 2x6's to get the rear tire off the ground, a much more plyable suspension.
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Old 10-20-2008, 11:32 AM   #29
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Yes, I guess that is the question. New axles mean more drop in the axle when lifted off the ground. Notice my pic above, the wheels only dropped a few inches when lifted off the ground, is this good or bad, normal or not?
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Old 10-23-2008, 05:14 AM   #30
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Miracle Clean

I got home from work yesterday and decided I would tinker with something on the AS. I read that the interior skin was a type of vinyl on aluminum and the endcaps were plastic. This one sat up for over 15 years and had accumulated a bit of mildew from interior sweat from not being aired out. I had planned on Kilz and paint for interior refinish until I broke out a cheap all purpose cleaner with bleach. I think it was $.97 a bottle. WOW, the stuff just cleaned right up. I plan to keep the original finish and trim. I could not believe how well it cleaned up. Check it out. Spray, light scrub with scotch brite, wipe up with papertowls. Too simple.
Adam
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Old 10-25-2008, 05:22 AM   #31
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I found a place here locally "Plas-tech" referred by Bob Jones RV. I dropped off the tank yesterday and he said the plastic was still in good shape. He will pressure test and repair (plastic weld) the leaks. Should be done next week. I will be replacing it, and considering the type of subfloor to use. I am thinking about the "Advantek" flooring. Are there any opinions on this material? All the readings are good so far. I am concerned about "rigidity" right now. How solid will it feel after install?
Thanks
Adam
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Old 11-03-2008, 05:59 AM   #32
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Preping the water tank section.

I am hoping the water tank will be done this week. In preperation for the return, I worked on the section for the tank. Lot's of rust clean up and to beefup the crossmember on the front edge. It was not even strong enough to stand on. The top edge was rusted through. I used some 16ga galvanized angle, tack welded to top and bottom of existing member and now is strong enough for my fat belly to stand on. I'm 220lbs and it has NO flex in it at all. Still using those SCRAP pieces that Mama always wants me to throw away. haha
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Old 11-03-2008, 09:25 PM   #33
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Welcome to Vintage Trade Wind

Hey, there!

Good to see another vintage Trade Wind. I have a 1968, made in Jackson Center. I had to replace the bath floor, for starters, and my check list looks a lot like yours. For replacing the bath floor, I experimented with a new product, Nyloboard, not saying that's the best choice for everybody, but I wanted to give it a try. It's pretty much guaranteed to outlive the next forty years, at least where contact with water is concerned.

Other ways to maximize the life of the plywood you might be using to replace your bath floor would be to treat the edges and maybe even the whole piece with a marine finish to seal the wood. There are some threads that recommend that kind of treatment.

On the bath removal, I heard that Airstream interiors started with the installation of the rear end cap and bath fixtures and worked forward. It is hard, hard, hard to get those fixtures out in one piece. And, when you start taking the interior skins out to de-pest your insulation, there are many hidden rivets that will test your patience and make you lose whatever religion you might have. Don't be surprised if you end up just clearing the whole thing down to practically nothing and starting over.

By the way, I found the replacement back bath end piece of floor to be exactly the width of an 8x4 board, and all but the curved corners and just a few inches on the 8' length. I guess a 24' trailer might mean 6 standard sized plywood sections, with the necessary cut-outs for the wheel wells and holes for the wiring and plumbing and so forth. I have seen recommendations of using cardboard for your templates for the floor. Maybe that works for the first run on starting a pattern or template, but I was very pleased with someone's recommendation to use luaun 1/8" thick. It held up under some rain and could take some tacking with temporary screws while I worked out the curves of the back end and got all of those channels and skins back together. The cost was more than a free fridge box, but the durability has been worth it. I have since used the same template to start plans for a new arrangement for the bath and main bedroom. I plan to keep using luaun for templates to get placement of cabinets, new arrangements for fixtures, etc.

For the black tank on mine, the galvanized case holding the black tank and insulation was totally wasted (pun intended). I got a stainless steel case made to hold the insulation and the black tank. It might seem like overkill for a tank that will be covered over with the aluminum belly pan, but I figure that's something I'll never want to mess with again, if I can help it.

I'm interested in how much changed on the interior from 68 to 70. Changes also on the windows, the control center, the light fixtures, the bath, -- lots of changes. It looks like you might have the center gaucho that I have in the 68, but maybe not the front twins? The center gaucho might have had some kind of hinged board that lifted and lowered to make the sofa/bed big enough for two (?). I found out recently that the wall pad shown in your pictures would come in real handy in cold weather, but I'm going to move the bedroom, anyway, but maybe that edging of quilted material against the inner skin will prevent some cold contact with a different kind of skin.

I think maybe the 68 was the last year of the era under the Wally Byam influence. The fresh water tank under the deck is a neat innovation. Glad you could save that tank. Wish I had one!

I have lots of sympathy/excitement for your project. It will be fun when you get to a point where you can start towing it to some parks and enjoy it for camping and visiting friends.

I need to replace axles, also, but can't resist towing around to local parks on beautiful weekends and enjoying the camping. I went ahead and got the tires replaced, bearings, brakes, and had a trailer shop check out to see if the towing gear was safe. The risk in not updating the running gear is some loose rivets on the minimum side, and I suppose something much worse can always be argued on the maximum side. It's a risk we have taken for a couple of years, but will get the new axles next spring. That coincides nicely with replacing some major segments of outer skin from some bad running gear damage by the PO. Once I get the nice repairs and remodeling done, I want to minimize the earthquake-like conditions that must be created when the shot axles and shocks are subjected to potholes and crummy highways.

Nice work on the MIG welding. That's another benefit of a vintage trailer -- I've picked up some cool tools and skills that I would not have learned otherwise, maybe, most likely -- ok, ok, I do have a craving for cool tools and hot metal.

Trade Wind is a nice size, don't you think? I'll subscribe to your thread. Have fun!
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Old 11-04-2008, 03:59 AM   #34
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Thanks Anne,
I am hoping after getting my current area of operation back together that the rear bath has minimal work needed. The floor feels good so far. I do plan to drop the black tank and build a new pan as you did. Mine too is SHOT. I am getting the fresh water tank back today. $50 in repairs and hope it will last a few more years. I have been drumming up some type of catch/drain pan for that as well in case future leaks.
I do have the center goucho, and it is built on aluminum slide frame to allow 2. Opens to full size bed as does the front goucho.

I too have axles on the brain. I do know they are on their last leg. Wow what a cost factor. Maybe I can at least get it to the Texas Rally and back next year.
Talk to ya later.
Adam
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Old 02-16-2009, 09:06 PM   #35
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I have a 1979, 31'. I have to replace some of the floor and I have read that you need to remove the inside skin above the floor to do this. Is this necessary? From the pictures, it doesn't look like that was done in this case. Also, assuming I do need to take some of the skin off, does it really matter what kind of rivets I go back with? I don't have much experience with rivets.
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Old 02-17-2009, 05:14 AM   #36
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I have a 1979, 31'. I have to replace some of the floor and I have read that you need to remove the inside skin above the floor to do this. Is this necessary? From the pictures, it doesn't look like that was done in this case. Also, assuming I do need to take some of the skin off, does it really matter what kind of rivets I go back with? I don't have much experience with rivets.
I am not a rivet king either. I would use aluminum rivets. As far as the removal on mine, I did not remove any of the inner skin. I was able to get a little under the C-channel track. The bad part is if you don't remove the bottom section to replace the elevator bolts that go through the floor, you pose a risk to structural integrity. These were built from the ground up. Frame, then floor structure, then bottom track and then shell. The bottom track is bolted through the floor to the frame. Alot of folks do a "Shell off restor". Some fight the good fight in remove lower skin to do the elevator bolts and all. I only replaced the front 3rd of floor, getting as much under the c-track, and did not remove any lower skin. I did however use 16gauge angle to secure the Ctrack to the new floor. I did "not" cut the original elevator bolts. They are still secure to frame. Not pretty, but I am not going for the elegant look rather than functional.
We have good weather ahead and I will be back in the saddle to complete my "less than elegant" tradewind. I have to build a new cabinet for sink, replace some plumbing and install bottom tank access skins. Some floor covering of some sort, and new bedding. I hope to make it to a couple of bike rallies this year. I missed the Texas vintage rally. Maybe next time. Keep your eye on this site, there is a bunch of knowledge. I am no pro, just a tinkerer.
Adam
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Old 03-08-2009, 04:53 PM   #37
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Thanks Adam. I decided to go ahead and remove the skin. I have part of it out now. I'm a tinkerer too. I'd starve to death if I had to do this for a living. I need to get on the roof and reseal a couple of things. Have you done any of that yet? If so, how did you go about it?
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