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Old 02-24-2010, 10:31 AM   #101
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It does look like the pricing must have dropped quite a bit. This price is for 3/4" 4'x8' sheets?

Malcolm
That price is for 3/4" - 4'x8' fiberglass skinned sheets with cosmetic blemishes.
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Old 02-24-2010, 01:24 PM   #102
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I am curious about the expansion/contraction rate for the Nyloboard. I know UHMW plastic moves A LOT. How does the Nyloboard compare?
Hi Craig;
I am not familiar with Nyloboard but all nylon products have an expansion and contraction rate. Not all companies will provide you with true data sheet. We have used similar product in the decking of 21' aluminum boat an the disaster struck when hot sun hit the deck in 90 degree ambient temp. There were 2" high bumps in the floor.

I have built from ground up a 1973 26' Argosy and used 1/2" aluminum clad on both sides plywood. It has the stiffness of standard 1" ply, it is waterproof because I joined the sheets via 1/16" H trim in horizontal position using 3M 5200 Marine adhesive in a joint area. Aluminum C trim capped the open edges using also 3M 5200. Attaching to frame holes in plywood were countersunk and packed with 5200. I have used 1/4 X 20 SS bolts to attach the floor to frame. Contact surfaces between ply and frame were lined with 3M 130C Linerless rubber splicing tape .060" thick. Cross members on my SS frame are spaced at 24".
310 lbs gentlemen stood on my floor before shell was lowered onto the floor and we measured a flex in the middle of span using a straight edge to measure floor deflection. No measurable value was noticed. That was, and still is good enough for me.

I do not mean in any way to discredit the applicable properties of Nyloboard in a Airstream floor, but there are cheaper alternatives that will perform equally. That is only my opinion. As a rule I do not buy products for my company unless I test them first. My way would be to get my 6" caliper out and measure the Nyloboard at 32 degrees and repeat the measurement at 100 degree and compare to technical data sheet provided by the manufacturer. A expansion of 1/8" would not be acceptable to me for that application. Thanks, "Boatdoc"
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Old 03-13-2010, 03:57 PM   #103
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Thank You Lothlorian for bringing Nylaoboard to the attention of this board. I have ordered a sample of the product. I for one do not relish the idea of ever having to take the shell off my 64 Overlander ever again. Plus my wifes allergies are so severe that a product that is mildew resistant is very appealing to me.

Whenever you try something new you assume a certain amount of risk, I accept that. I know the weaknesses of plywood Marine grade or otherwise, first hand. I once built an 18 foot sailboat out of marine grade plywood and ended up losing her to rot and wood eating insects. My Airstream is something special and increasingly rare, I want something that endures as well as the aluminum does.

Thanks again,
Jon
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Old 03-13-2010, 04:14 PM   #104
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I was the person who posted this thread and my floor is holding up well. I don't camp all the time and I only did the back end of the trailer in Nyloboard. so far it is holding up great. No rot and everything seems solid. The scrap I left in the yard two years ago is like new.

I was wondering if I am the only one who has it installed? If not I would like to hear what other people think who have tried it.

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Old 03-13-2010, 04:15 PM   #105
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Nyloboard quote

Well, I tried to get a reasonable price on 2 sheets of "blemished" fiberglass coated and was referred to Piemont plastics as the distributor here in Ga.
They quoted me $239.00 PER SHEET, that for Me = No Sale! Rediculous
I don't care how great it is. I would have gladly paid $125 per sheet.
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Old 03-13-2010, 04:41 PM   #106
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I got mine from the factory. Did you call the factory to see if they will ship, or where there distributors are located.

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Old 03-13-2010, 04:59 PM   #107
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I live 50 miles from the factory however, I was told by the sales lady that they no longer sell direct to consumers and was referred to Piedmont plastics to purchase it.
I will call the factory back to try and get a better quote, as the other one
was unacceptable.
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Old 03-14-2010, 10:08 AM   #108
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For those doing a shell-off restoration, another possibility is to use epoxy & fiberglass cloth over 3/4" plywood as the floor. This yields a very strong and tough surface, and of course is waterproof.

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Old 03-15-2010, 08:32 AM   #109
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I asked the salesman from Nyloboard that helped me and he said that those of you who would like to purchase some nyloboard can email Kcole@nyloboard.com
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Old 03-16-2010, 09:03 AM   #110
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No reply to that email yet. I will keep you posted.
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Old 03-16-2010, 10:15 AM   #111
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I would use marine grade plywood and epoxy it, both sides. There is no need to fibreglass unless it is going to be subject to abrasion - unlikely in a sub-floor. You must sand the epoxy after application if you are going to apply any glue or adhesive. A wax forms on the surface during cure and needs to be removed. Boaters epoxy any subsequent holes to prevent water entering through the hole. That would apply to screws as well. I don't think it would be much of an issue unless you plan to use buckets of water washing the floor.
I have built wood epoxy boats and have never had rot problems. The key is don't let water reach the wood. If you remember that as you build and take the needed steps it will last a very long time.
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Old 03-16-2010, 12:23 PM   #112
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I have built wood epoxy boats and have never had rot problems. The key is don't let water reach the wood. If you remember that as you build and take the needed steps it will last a very long time.
Rosie I too have built epoxy/wood boats. My experience was not as good as yours unfortunately. I agree that if it's done right the plywood could last a long time. If Nyloboard proves prohibitively expensive I will certainly do exactly as you suggest. I wonder what kind of treatment Airstream did to the plywood originally?

Welcome to the Airstream Forum!!!!!!
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Old 03-16-2010, 08:15 PM   #113
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I would use marine grade plywood ... The key is don't let water reach the wood.
Rosie,

If you don't already know, this is easier said than done in an Airstream. As is said..."They ALL leak"
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Old 03-16-2010, 09:08 PM   #114
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Yes, they all leak - so this is why epoxy is such a nice solution. My experience w/ epoxy building boats has been quite good; you do need to wet sand between coats as Rosie pointed out. For those who remember polyester resin & fiberglass, the epoxies are far stronger and _don't_ come loose.

We just recently used two coats of epoxy (thinned 25% w/ xylene), spot filled the holes and then finished w/ an un-thinned coat on the floor in our Tradewind. Very nice hard finish; I painted it w/ a moisture-cured aluminum-filled polyurethane paint, so it's bright silver now. This hid the place I sectioned in some new wood near the door, and also repaired the water damaged areas adjacent to the battery box door and along the windows in the front.

If I were doing this shell off, I'd have used cloth to tie the sections of plywood into a single piece; the cloth also makes the floor very damage resistant.

Note that this approach allows one to use rugs to cover the floor rather than needing to carpet the entire surface, which makes cleaning much easier.

I may yet get to do more next year, but I'm leaving the bathroom alone for now so we can go camping this year .
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Old 03-17-2010, 11:18 AM   #115
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I'm finding out more and more they do leak but that shouldn't matter. Before the plywood is installed it must be encasulated in epoxy - especially the edges. If you are riveting or screwing it down treat it like you would the outer skin and use a sealant around the hole and fasteners. Keep asking how can water touch the wood and then prevent it. It is even more important in areas that have freezing temperatures. Freeze thaw of wet plywood will ruin it faster than rot.
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Old 03-17-2010, 12:40 PM   #116
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I'm finding out more and more they do leak but that shouldn't matter. Before the plywood is installed it must be encasulated in epoxy - especially the edges. If you are riveting or screwing it down treat it like you would the outer skin and use a sealant around the hole and fasteners. Keep asking how can water touch the wood and then prevent it. It is even more important in areas that have freezing temperatures. Freeze thaw of wet plywood will ruin it faster than rot.
Which is why Nyloboard is of interest to me. It is intrinsically safe from water intrusion without any epoxy or sealing process. I am not saying epoxy encapsulated marine grade plywood is not good, it's great!!! But in my mind it still comes in second place to a material that is moisture resistant with little or no treatment. If only they would make plywood out of cypress, now that would the ultimate.
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:21 PM   #117
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Nyloboard didn't need our business...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 0557 View Post
I live 50 miles from the factory however, I was told by the sales lady that they no longer sell direct to consumers and was referred to Piedmont plastics to purchase it.
I will call the factory back to try and get a better quote, as the other one
was unacceptable.
We live close enough to the factory to go get the Nyloboard. We had planned to put it in our trailer. We called the factory three times to get a quote. Each time, they took our info and told us they would have someone call back. It never happened. I guess they don't need our business. We're trying to decide what to use.

Has anyone tried a one-side voidless outdoor plywood? (It's supposed to be cheaper than the marine-grade.)
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Old 03-17-2010, 03:53 PM   #118
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I haven't tried it on an airstream but I have tried it on a boat. It performed comparable to marine grade. The key is to be very selective about which piece you buy. Make sure it has absolutely no gaps in the glue, at least no detectable gaps. Also buy it from a reputable lumberyard...I avoid Home Depot and other big chains when it comes to quality plywood.
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Old 03-17-2010, 07:11 PM   #119
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Get some good plywood,treat the edges with fiberglass cloth and epoxy,seal the bolts and move on. We are all really doing more to our floors than Airsteam did originally so my 45 year old AS will outlast what they did new and will outlast me.Maybe in 2065 some brave soul will have the opportunity to rebuild it again.
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Old 03-18-2010, 12:55 PM   #120
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