Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Airstream Forums > Airstream Restoration, Repair & Parts Forums > Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame
Click Here to Login
Register Vendors FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search Log in

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-04-2014, 07:30 AM   #1
2 Rivet Member
 
AStreamJake's Avatar
 
2003 25' Safari
Livingston , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 33
New Member - Question on Flooring Replacement

Hello, my partner (Amy) and I are new to the forum, but full-time Airstreamers for 6 years. We are now replacing our flooring and have questions regarding the proper treatment of the staples which join together our subfloor panels.

Since the floor is bolted down, are these staples (which span the seams between plywood sheets) necessary? They seem to have been put there to hold the edges of the plywood tightly together at the seam. How should I treat the seamed area so that the staples, if left in place, don't show through the vinyl flooring? I plan on using floor leveling compound over all the bolt heads. With regards to the staples, should I just pound them down into the plywood with a hammer and then use floor leveling compound, or should I remove them?

I've torn out the old carpet and found a few areas where water had penetrated, but nothing rotted. One wet area under and around the kitchen cabinets was, I believe, due to a damaged wheel well on the kitchen side. I can see the plywood subfloor from outside the Airstream when I like just anterior to the front tire on the kitchen side. The damage came from a tire blowout that also damaged the trim along the wheel well. I took the trailer to Jackson Center for repair last year, but they missed the gaping damage to the wheel well!!! As a result, every time we drive in the rain it throws water up and we've been having wet carpet in the kitchen area. I just found the damaged area on the wheel well myself. I'm hoping that fixing the wheel well will resolve this problem.

The other area that has some water staining is around the side of the refrigerator facing the living area (we have a rear twin). We've noticed some dampness here at times. I looked at the refrigerator drain, which has small holes through which the water is supposed to drip. Most were clogged up. Took this small plastic fitting off the drain hose, cleaned it out, and reinstalled the fitting onto the hose. I hope this takes care of the problem, but are there any other potential causes in this area that I should check for?

I've read a lot of the forums on flooring choices, and have decided to go with a commercial-grade Allure tile from Home Depot. The commercial has wider, heavier planks than the standard Allure tiles (12" vs 6") so I figure I'll have fewer seems to worry about separation on. I plan on putting on several coats of epoxy to waterproof the subfloor prior to installation of the tiles, then use the leveling compound as described above. I'll acclimatize the tiles for 3 days prior to installation and use a 100 lb roller as suggested by the manufacturer. Hopefully this will do the trick.

Thanks in advance for your advice regarding the subfloor seams.
AStreamJake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2014, 08:13 AM   #2
2 Rivet Member
 
1958 18' "Footer"
Sebastopol , California
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 74
Bolt heads? Are you talking about the flat heads of the elevator bolts? I wouldn't remove the staples. My original flooring was cracked along the floor joints. You want all the holding power at the seams you can get. Instead of worrying about all the imperfections on the original floor, I fixed all the water damaged area. Then stapled down a sub floor. Making sure the seams weren't close to where the original floor seams are. Sub flooring is 1/4" and about $12 a 4'x8' sheet. Cheap and didn't add much weight.
60's Iron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2014, 08:24 AM   #3
2 Rivet Member
 
AStreamJake's Avatar
 
2003 25' Safari
Livingston , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by 50s Aluminum View Post
Bolt heads? Are you talking about the flat heads of the elevator bolts? I wouldn't remove the staples. My original flooring was cracked along the floor joints. You want all the holding power at the seams you can get. Instead of worrying about all the imperfections on the original floor, I fixed all the water damaged area. Then stapled down a sub floor. Making sure the seams weren't close to where the original floor seams are. Sub flooring is 1/4" and about $12 a 4'x8' sheet. Cheap and didn't add much weight.
My subfloor is in such great shape that I don't think adding a new layer of subfloor would help. I think I've got the leak problem under control. The elevator bolts are indeed what I was referring to, and I think I'll just make sure they're still screwed in tight and then use a leveling compound to patch over the heads of these bolts. The staple problem from the staples spanning the seams can also, I think, be resolved in a similar manner; i.e., by driving them in flush with the floor and then patching over using a leveling compound. I'm just soliciting ideas here because there are obviously folks out there with much more experience than me!
AStreamJake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2014, 09:38 PM   #4
cwf
Rivet Master
 
cwf's Avatar
 
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 6,408
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 2
We installed an engineered floor, same as in our home. It has a foam backing which compensates for irregular floor anomalies like staples and the bolt heads.

It all snaps together. No "moisture barrier" to trap hidden water penetrations. Quarter round trim glued to mousefurr or. A cabinet bases. Has over 5000 miles and a year of use with zero issues.
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
cwf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2014, 06:18 AM   #5
2 Rivet Member
 
AStreamJake's Avatar
 
2003 25' Safari
Livingston , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 33
Reply to cwf and questions regarding engineered floor

Quote:
Originally Posted by cwf View Post
We installed an engineered floor, same as in our home. It has a foam backing which compensates for irregular floor anomalies like staples and the bolt heads.

It all snaps together. No "moisture barrier" to trap hidden water penetrations. Quarter round trim glued to mousefurr or. A cabinet bases. Has over 5000 miles and a year of use with zero issues.
Do you have the manufacturer name, style, and pattern numbers of the flooring that you used? It would be great to see a picture if you have one. Did you do the work yourself? Thanks for your help!

Stephan
AStreamJake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2014, 09:27 AM   #6
cwf
Rivet Master
 
cwf's Avatar
 
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 6,408
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 2
Kensington Manor from Lumber Liquidators

12mm Summer Retreat Teak Handscraped Laminate - Dream Home - Kensington Manor | Lumber Liquidators
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
cwf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2014, 10:19 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
1955 22' Safari
Laredo , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,342
Same here

Quote:
Originally Posted by cwf View Post
We installed an engineered floor, same as in our home. It has a foam backing which compensates for irregular floor anomalies like staples and the bolt heads.

It all snaps together. No "moisture barrier" to trap hidden water penetrations. Quarter round trim glued to mousefurr or. A cabinet bases. Has over 5000 miles and a year of use with zero issues.
I did the same but used something that matched our oak cabinets:
3/8" x 4-3/4" Honey Red Oak Quick Clic Engineered - Schön Quick Clic Engineered | Lumber Liquidators
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_1398R.jpg
Views:	122
Size:	186.3 KB
ID:	218427  
55AS is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Flooring Replacement & Toilet Flange DEITZ645 Sinks, Showers & Toilets 10 03-29-2012 12:16 PM
New to flooring but making do ….question Stupidnoob Floor Finishes 7 11-21-2011 01:33 PM
Side-to-Side Flooring Replacement in Classic MH jeffbolst Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 12 11-03-2006 01:08 PM
partial removal & replacement of sub flooring B Stover General Interior Topics 6 08-12-2005 03:32 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.