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Old 06-28-2021, 07:39 AM   #1
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1977 31' Sovereign
Alexandria , Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 7
New floor before shell on?

Just got my frame back from the welding shop and applied my first coat of POR-15 to it (and half my body).

I'm considering installing LVT on 1/2" ACX subfloor before I reattach the shell. The benefits seem obvious but I wonder if I'm setting myself up for headaches getting the F-channel to work.

Has anyone done this with success? Is 1/2" enough?
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Old 06-28-2021, 08:59 AM   #2
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1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
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What is the thickness of your original subfloor?

My recommendation would be to NOT install your LVT until after the shell is back in place, all work is done with interior wiring, insulation, interior skins, etc. There is no sense in wearing out your new flooring during the construction process, and I honestly cannot see the advantage of having that flooring sandwiched in the C-channels, and at the expense of a slightly thicker plywood subfloor.

Also, Many LVTs are designed to install as "floating" floors, allowing them to expand and retract at their own rate, independent of what they are installed on. If you clamp down all the edges, you might find that on a cold day, your floor is separating in the middle as it shrinks, and in the heat of the summer it is puckering in the middle due to expansion.

good luck!
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Old 06-28-2021, 11:57 AM   #3
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1963 19' Globetrotter
1967 17' Caravel
1974 29' Ambassador
Whiterock , British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belegedhel View Post
What is the thickness of your original subfloor?

My recommendation would be to NOT install your LVT until after the shell is back in place, all work is done with interior wiring, insulation, interior skins, etc. There is no sense in wearing out your new flooring during the construction process, and I honestly cannot see the advantage of having that flooring sandwiched in the C-channels, and at the expense of a slightly thicker plywood subfloor.

Also, Many LVTs are designed to install as "floating" floors, allowing them to expand and retract at their own rate, independent of what they are installed on. If you clamp down all the edges, you might find that on a cold day, your floor is separating in the middle as it shrinks, and in the heat of the summer it is puckering in the middle due to expansion.

good luck!
Very well said.

I have had zero success with a few different brands and types of vinyl tile, no matter how “luxurious” the marketing whizzes claim it to be.

It is a bit of a more vintage look, but the sheet flooring below is a fantastic product, and since it’s a sheet product, there are no gap issues with joints, since there aren’t any!

https://www.armstrongflooring.com/co...ducts/hom.html
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Old 06-28-2021, 07:51 PM   #4
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1976 Argosy 24
1961 28' Ambassador
1968 26' Overlander
Lakewood , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 162
Yeah, +1 with "B"... go with the thickest that will fit in the channel, some even rout the edge to be able to use 3/4", make sure to seal the edges with something, paint, sealer, epoxy, your choice. Not saying to do this but I once did the front half of a 28' with 3/4 baltic birch, it was amazing. Make sure all the seams fall on crossmembers, use more of every fastener than Airstream did. Yes, LVT (planks I'm assuming) install almost at the end. Even with a 1/4" space all around mine will sometimes "pucker" when hit by sunlight for a while. Product was not really intended for quasi-outdoor use or large temp swings. Does look good though.
Good luck, Mark D
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