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Old 10-02-2010, 01:59 AM   #21
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2012 23' International
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Yeah lifes a challenge sometimes and I could hate the person who sold us this trailer but I'm gonna fix this Little Trade Wind and its gonna be the best Trade Wind in the world and we're gonna love it and rock it from coast to coast and in 30 yrs. when we retire its gonna be the coolest 68 yr. old trailer on the road.
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Old 10-02-2010, 02:05 AM   #22
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And yes that shop is BAD ASS!!! Jealous
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Old 10-02-2010, 02:19 AM   #23
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Yeah, just build a new frame! Keep up faith. Ok it is a setback but if you do it, do it bthe wright way.
i am just finished building the new frame and now in the process off building up again. Alot, a lot of work but finally it will be ready for another 40 years.
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Old 10-02-2010, 05:41 AM   #24
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Althea68,

Good luck on your restoration, that's a project but with the expertise that we have seen in just a few looky here at mine, you'll be in that club soon.

To the frame replacement guys, very impressive work.
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Old 10-03-2010, 07:29 PM   #25
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New guy looking at 72 International 31' Soveriegn

We are just getting ready to buy a 1972 31' International, rear bath, clean skin, everything works, new converter, battery, hot water heater, rest is stock. Looks to good to be true. I have gone though the trailer with the check list off this web site. Is there anything I should look out for in the 72 models made in Calif....?
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Old 10-03-2010, 11:40 PM   #26
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The good news is that your new frame shouldn't be substantially more expensive than the repair cost you were anticipating already. The bad news is that you will have to dissasemble the interior and remove the floor and bellypan, take the shell off the frame, and have the new one made. I seriously doubt that your frame is any better behind the A-frame.
So you weren't planning on doing a frame-off restoration, hey? If you are handy and don't mind taking the time to do this, then it can be very rewarding and you can end up with a personalized Airstream for a fraction of the cost of a new one.
If this isn't what you were planning to spend the next couple of years working on, you may want to put it up for sale and try again, or get another one, in good shape, to use while you fix up this one.
Any chance you can get back to the seller and tell him you won't hardly feel the need to take him to small claims court if he refunds your money in full or at least a very large part, like enough to replace the frame? If you really got hosed as you say, at least you have the threat of a lawsuit as leverage to have them refund as much of the purchase price as it would take to make it a worthwhile deal. What the hell, right? If you sue him for the amount you paid and win, you still keep the trailer, and get your money back, if you can collect it...

This is fraud. They sold you something that is extremely unsafe to have on any road, and they not only knew about it, but they tried to pass the expense of the repair and the liability in case of injury or death, on to YOU. What if this thing seperated from YOUR tow vehicle on the way home, and killed or maimed somebody?

I'm pissed! You should be too.
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Old 10-04-2010, 04:17 AM   #27
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See your beer friends above

Given the earlier statements about beer buddies that can weld. I'd work to become friends with the folks above showing their frame off restorations. I'd just hope someone lives close to you. Most folks who have those welding skills, and the time to do it, can sometimes be wonderful willing folks to work with. Especially if you are up to the task of helping. Do the dirty and tedious work for them, and you can end up with something done absolutely right, at a discount, and you will walk away with more wrinkles in your brain than you thought were possible.

Good Luck, it look doable.
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Old 10-05-2010, 02:13 PM   #28
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Yikes!

Do Not Tow The Trailer! The best thing to do is to remove the belly skins back from the tongue A-frame until you find the original welded connection to your floor frame members and cut it off so all the new A-frame is a full solid frame. Any aluminum that has corroded will need to be replaced as well. Removal of the flooring will be required to get this welded in right. Ed
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Old 10-05-2010, 09:17 PM   #29
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Hey man I know the feeling. I bought a 76 sovereign from a guy in Ga. It was our family's first camper. I thought I inspected it fairly well, it appeared in good condition, heck the guy was even keeping it inside. When I got it home the electric tongue jack lifted the trailer about half stroke and then started slipping, had to repair jack.Then I noticed the inside lights seemed a little dim, checked the voltage, 8v, had to replace the converter. Next I noticed the water pump cycled off and on even with the faucets closed, found small split in copper line. Could not repair becouse entire section of pipe was swollen from freezing and new fittings would not fit. Replaced all copper in trailer with new pex.
About two weeks after we brought it home we took it camping, all systems seemed to work well now, no plumbing leaks, good a/c, bath ok, then it rained one afternoon and we found out why he kept it inside, P/O had covered the busted exterior skylight plastics with duct tape on all of them. I also found a soft spot beside the toilet.
When we got home I gutted the bath to repair the floor, as I proceeded to remove
belly wraps for access I found the dreaded rust, the more I removed themore I found.
Now fastfoward about six weeks. The trailer is gutted, the shell is on blocks, the frame is at the welders getting cloned, the POR in waiting and the nyloboard is ordered.
I've had poeple tell me I should have bought a newer camper, for the money I'm spending I could of had a lot nicer camper. Maybe I could have and maybe I should have, but I couldn't just throw it away. I can't afford to lose what I put in it and I'm not one to pass along problems to someone else. So I suck it up, do what I got to do and do it best it can be done.
PS:Thanks to everyone here on the forum for info and encouragement as I progress toward an 1976/2011 Airstream.
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Old 10-05-2010, 09:37 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex Crabtree View Post
We are just getting ready to buy a 1972 31' International, rear bath, clean skin, everything works, new converter, battery, hot water heater, rest is stock. Looks to good to be true. I have gone though the trailer with the check list off this web site. Is there anything I should look out for in the 72 models made in Calif....?
1974 and older Airstream axles had the incorrect composition rubber rods in them, that led to typically an early failure.

Long term storage, also has a negative effect on the rubber rods.

There is a "axle article" in the Airstream Central portion of this forums that will help you check them out in less than a minute.

Andy
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Old 10-05-2010, 09:51 PM   #31
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Musicmaster: Take the address and email for the guy who sold you the pig-in-a-poke, and sign him up for all the spam, cons and "marketing" you can find. Every timeshare and gym membership drawing, etc. Print the info up on Avery labels so you can easily slap it down on those lead-generation giveaway cards every time you see one.

It's not as bad as he deserves, but you might get some pleasure from it.
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Old 10-05-2010, 10:10 PM   #32
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Whoa DKB I would hate to get on your bad side. Musicmaster did not say that the PO misrepresented himself as to the condition of the A/S just that you never know what you are getting into with a 34yr old trailer. A lot of PO's do not want to fix it right so you can find a lot of tempoary fixes and the frame/floor issue can not be inspected properly without dropping the pan. Cut the PO some slack unless musicmaster says he intentionally ripped him off. Then hit him with both barrels.
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Old 10-06-2010, 07:51 AM   #33
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Whoa DKB I would hate to get on your bad side. Musicmaster did not say that the PO misrepresented himself as to the condition of the A/S just that you never know what you are getting into with a 34yr old trailer. A lot of PO's do not want to fix it right so you can find a lot of tempoary fixes and the frame/floor issue can not be inspected properly without dropping the pan. Cut the PO some slack unless musicmaster says he intentionally ripped him off. Then hit him with both barrels.
I'd consider giving the PO a pass on the shell leakage if he just happened to have had it inside every time it rained, but from the description, the converter was already dead, it's unlikely the PO didn't know about the burst water lines, I'm guessing the jack was already dead or on its way out too.

If the PO inherited the trailer or something, I'll offer a public apology, but it sounds like misrepresentation unless the PO had a reason to know nothing about the trailer.
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Old 10-06-2010, 08:27 AM   #34
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The PO had actually owned the camper for a couple of years, said he camped in it regularly. When I originaly talked to him on the phone I asked about leaks, he said he had repaired all the window leaks. When I got there I went inside first to inspect, I ran the water, poked the floor, tested the potty, fridge and A/C. Then I went outside
checked the tires, step area, tongue,WH and lights, some lights didn't work but I saw that. I even saw water on his shop floor at the bumper under the rear bath and asked about it. He had a garden hose laying beside the puddle and said he spilled it after filling the fresh water tank. I took him at his word as he seemed forthcoming in his description. After finding the problems I tried to call him, no answer, left messege, no results. I was going to ask if he would consider a partial refund to help with repairs.
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Old 10-06-2010, 08:57 AM   #35
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Well my apologies DKB. Like I said hit him with both barrels. Have you considered suing. I think you won't get far though because it will be a case of he said you said.
Musicmaster I posted regarding changing tanks in your other thread. I forgot to attach the pics but will do it now.
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Old 10-06-2010, 09:18 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musicmaster View Post
The PO had actually owned the camper for a couple of years, said he camped in it regularly. When I originaly talked to him on the phone I asked about leaks, he said he had repaired all the window leaks. When I got there I went inside first to inspect, I ran the water, poked the floor, tested the potty, fridge and A/C. Then I went outside
checked the tires, step area, tongue,WH and lights, some lights didn't work but I saw that. I even saw water on his shop floor at the bumper under the rear bath and asked about it. He had a garden hose laying beside the puddle and said he spilled it after filling the fresh water tank. I took him at his word as he seemed forthcoming in his description. After finding the problems I tried to call him, no answer, left messege, no results. I was going to ask if he would consider a partial refund to help with repairs.
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Did the previous owner tell you anything about the axle condition?

If they are not serviceable, then that's even more to confront him with.

Andy
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Old 10-06-2010, 07:59 PM   #37
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Andy, The axles do need to be replaced. Even now, with nothing but the rusty frame on them, they are at zero angle. I dicided to wait until I was finished with the restoration, since it will be heavier than before. Then weigh it and order the correct axles.
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Old 10-06-2010, 08:21 PM   #38
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Andy, The axles do need to be replaced. Even now, with nothing but the rusty frame on them, they are at zero angle. I dicided to wait until I was finished with the restoration, since it will be heavier than before. Then weigh it and order the correct axles.
Your original axles were rated at 3200 pounds.

Kicking them up to 3500 later would be OK.

However, since you are down to the frame, if you want to kick them up to 4000 pounds, then you should beef up the frame a little, as it would never be easier than when the shell is off.

Andy
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Old 10-06-2010, 09:11 PM   #39
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Hey Andy, check out my frame picture under converting rear bath. I decided to go with box tubing for the entire length of the trailer. I was told it should increase frame strength by about 40%. Any other suggestionswould be appreciated. I'll put up more pictures as things progress in the coming days.
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Old 10-06-2010, 09:27 PM   #40
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Hey Andy, check out my frame picture under converting rear bath. I decided to go with box tubing for the entire length of the trailer. I was told it should increase frame strength by about 40%. Any other suggestionswould be appreciated. I'll put up more pictures as things progress in the coming days.
I don't know about the 40 percent.

You might consider adding a few more outriggers, adding more rivets to the front hold down plate, and beefing up the rear hold down area.

The shell holds the frame up, therefore a beefed up frame must have additional fasteners holding it to the shell, especially at the rear end.

Andy
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