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Old 12-20-2010, 09:48 PM   #21
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I could pick the main beams up on one end and drag it, but yes, if I ever really wanted to load up with water i would have to up grade from the 94 2500 gmc 6.5 turbo diesel 4x4 ext cab 7' bed, michellen load E tires.
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Old 12-20-2010, 10:18 PM   #22
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I guess now that i found the steel I originally wanted, I could go back to the plan of hanging the storage compartments. If a bus with 50 passengers can safely deal with gravity, this should not have a problem. I could build a new strong frame and hang the old belly below, using alot less metal. It would be like filling the oreo with the best part. It would lighten the load. I don't ever see myself hauling 14000lbs of water. I could sell the ones I have and buy slightly lower rated axles and tires.
The shop I got it from has an air ride kit, I could pick it up cheap, but I haven't a clue where to begin with those.
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Old 12-20-2010, 10:44 PM   #23
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...tion-9708.html
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Old 12-21-2010, 06:31 AM   #24
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I built a tear drop camper a few years back from scratch and all i had to do was get it weighed at the dump and take the weight slip to the county office to get a tag. It is listed under a home built. They didn't ask if it had brake lights, if a certified welder welded the frame, and they didn't even ask to see it. This is in FL, might be different else where. I have been towing it for two years and no problems from the trailer or law enforcement.
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Old 12-21-2010, 08:54 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nomader View Post
That trailer that mandolindave was talking about was being "modified" at the shop that did the supposed restoration of my Sovereign. When I saw the trailer in 2005, it was an empty shell; it was still an empty shell in 2007, and I would bet it's still sitting in the same place looking the same way three years later.

It seems that you're fixed on doing what you want to your trailer, but from what I've read here, you'd be better off buying a trailer that already has what you're looking for, plus it would be legal and safe, and you'd probably be in it for about the same amount of money, time and grief you plan on putting into your '74.

Just make sure that it's safe and legal.
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Old 12-21-2010, 11:17 AM   #26
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Nice hack job!

Quote:
Originally Posted by newroswell View Post
I saw this one at a rally. Later it was listed for sale on craigslist for a really long time. Same guy hacked up a canned ham on a mercedes also, and had it for sale forever.
If I weren't so happy with my moho I'd take a look at this... screw "traditional Jackson Center engineering and design"! I've been out there several times and I have to say there probably isn't one trailer that comes out of there 100%.

On the other hand I am very safety conscious and would be very leery of anything that hasn't been gone over by engineers and been road tested!
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:48 PM   #27
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There has got to be at least one trailer designer on here that knows the steps to dot approval.
I sent a message to jim golden, he hasn't been on in a while, it sounds like he went with a slightly thicker frame and put a lot of thought into it.

Any other engineeers want to take a stab at this. I can make it worth the while, in some way.
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Old 12-21-2010, 03:40 PM   #28
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www.colinhydetrailerrestorations.com ; Colin would be one of the more knowledgeable people who could lead you in the right direction.
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Old 12-22-2010, 12:18 AM   #29
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I originally thought an Airstream loving engineer or two would see the post and have fun designing/critiquing it. I will send him a message, I just wanted this to be an on the side kind of thing. It's not just the money issue, the numbers and geometry is one thing, having everybody put there two cents in on what they would like to see is another. Then to have all of that intertwined and bouncing back and forth. That's how great things come to be.
Collaboration
one half comment sparks another.
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Old 12-22-2010, 02:07 AM   #30
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So, the guy I bought all of this from, sold the very "new" axles, we had agreed on, out from under me, for an extra $100. "But it's ok, you can take these used ones"... Anyways!?* I had to explain why they were not the same, even though the PO, "who had nothing to gain", said they were good.
After throwing some stuff on the pile, we were good.
Today, I went back so they could follow me to a friends house and unload all of the metal and axles. When I was at the shop I realized the axles had hydrolic brakes, with a cord coming out for electric. Another customer saw what was going on and took me around the shop and pointed to everything i needed. After all was said and done I walked out with:
two carlisle hydrolic brake "pumps?" used, but said to be good. they look pristine. one 1000 psi the other 1600 psi. the extra as a back up, hopefully eventually for sale.
all the piping and wire, no in cab brake controller..
one fan-tastic fan, that magically appeared
a philips rv fan, looks decent
two thermastats, I hope one could work on my Colman mach.
a wfco 3 stage converter
about 20 hydrogen light pucks
all of the truck jack/slide-in toolbox lighting, flush worklighting everywhere outside
more locking handles
an actuator motor
3'x7' lite diamond plate
4x6' rv tinted slide-to-open window. For my Mom's Italian ice trailer. She got hooked up this Christmas, long over due.
tongue lock
two 4x10' glossy black 1/8 aluminum sheets
big hinges
aluminum trim to build a big door.
and all sorts of other odds and ends
All for $360

I spotted a non-roof top ac today, I could sell off all the roof top stuff and have everything low..?

It might be the wrong topic for the forum, but are they any good? I've never looked at the pros and cons of the two types. I bet most AS owners haven't either.
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Old 12-22-2010, 04:09 PM   #31
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Let me know when you plan on getting this monstrosity on the road, so I can head in the other direction; it doesn't sound like you're willing to pay someone to do it right nor have the knowledge to make it functional and safe. Jury rigging WILL cause an accident.
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Old 12-22-2010, 06:17 PM   #32
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As I read through this thread, I'm becoming increasingly slack jawed.
It's like a cross between Laurel & Hardy and Dr. Demento....
With everyone's two cents put in and no engineer we're going to have
a runaway train and a whole barrel of spare change spilled all over the track.
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Old 12-22-2010, 06:31 PM   #33
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Let's just let this thread take it's course. We haven't had a good one since Cursh stopped posting. By-the-way, I hope he's alright.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...ign-38897.html
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Old 12-22-2010, 06:48 PM   #34
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You are so right, please let this go on and on...
Reading this with my morning coffee gets my day going right!
Now back to Cursh.
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Old 12-22-2010, 10:04 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coylecamper View Post
I built a tear drop camper a few years back from scratch and all i had to do was get it weighed at the dump and take the weight slip to the county office to get a tag. It is listed under a home built. They didn't ask if it had brake lights, if a certified welder welded the frame, and they didn't even ask to see it. This is in FL, might be different else where. I have been towing it for two years and no problems from the trailer or law enforcement.
i sure hope that's the way it works.^I missed your post somehow. Thanks

I will find professional help and have a full plan, before any real cuts are made.
_
I'm pretty sure engineers work in teams all the time. A good company, would ask their costumers what they like about their products, and what they wish to change. It doesn't mean they listen. They take it all back to their team, consisting of more than just engineers, and throw it all out there. They bounce stuff around for awhile, maybe try to figure out why that one "lunatic" said what he/she said, then they get to the more detailed aspects. Then more research and on and on.

I bought what I did, when I did, with the thought of selling what i wouldn't end up using.

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Old 12-22-2010, 10:26 PM   #36
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OK, I'll bite.

I am NOT an engineer, but I do have a minor in structural engineering. I am not offering engineering advice. I will answer questions as best I can.

Let's start with my questions:

1. What do you need? This isn't about a trailer, but about what you need to store and transport. How much does it weigh, and how big is it? What are some of the largest L x W X H dimensions? Cn any of this stuff be replaced in some deal with something that is smaller or lighter?

2. When you have this list of stuff, work out a basic plan of needs in storing it? What requires to be outside (propane, etc) or is hazardous, corrosive, etc?

3. Now you have these lists, what is your idea of storage space/volume you really need?

My instinct is to ask you if you'd consider solving the storage problem in other ways. Could you make a custom truck body? If you can fit this stuff in a 5x6.5x4 volume, you can design a body for a 6.5" F250 or F350 or similar. This would be cheaper and more flexible than what you propose, and separates your work tools from your living space. You can then transport your tools to a job site without having to move home.

I look forward to your reply.
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Old 12-22-2010, 10:34 PM   #37
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nomader, all joking aside. Keep us posted on the progress and throw out a pix once in a while. You'll get more real feedback when show a pile of material.
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Old 12-23-2010, 08:31 AM   #38
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I plan to keep all of my tools in the slide-in truck job box.
I would like to move the following, below the floor:
A/C, electric heat, gas furnace, two gas water heaters, electric water heater with tank, tankless water heater- electric, water filter system, drinking water storage with water cooler, generator, an electrical closet, batteries, gas tank and propane tanks- under the front nose, slide out grill, possibly a small freezer and pantry, hose/cord storage, water bags, Bigger/auxiliary black water tank, storage for outdoor AS stuff. Scooter on front nose, and I would put all of the water lines "inside" the air duct.
If I did this it would free up room inside for a dishwasher, washer and dryer, convection microwave and daily stuff. I would also sell the oven and stove and put in a single unit. This would get the center of gravity lower, and I don't like it up there.
I also would like the generator behind the wheel well, in a sound proofed box and have the washer and dryer inside, in the rear. The only way I see to "keep everything happy", is the expanded frame.
Maybe a closet, just for computer stuff, the new basement access would allow easier upgrades in the future.
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Old 12-23-2010, 09:19 AM   #39
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Two gas water heaters, electric water heater and a tankless heater? What is your reason for needing four heaters? I see you also listed a dishwasher and washer.

I am guessing (please tell me if I am wrong) that you want every assurance of plentiful hot water no matter what, for the appliances. This is not practicable. The dishwasher and washer can both heat water, and modern washers do not even need warm water to work well. Also, a typical front load washer (I can't imagine you using a top loader) weights 250 lbs and vibrates a LOT - placing it far from the axles would be a bad idea. Then you need to carry the water to run these devices, which is HEAVY.

A single tankless gas/electric water heater could heat all the water you needed for a fraction of the cost and weight.

The water bags idea is interesting. It has been tried with bad results because the bags can move when part filled, wear, and leak quickly.

Are you willing to rethink these parts of your design, or are you wedded to the idea of four water heaters?
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Old 12-23-2010, 09:44 AM   #40
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IMO, you're wrapping a huge, very heavy ball and chain around your own neck. Less is more.

If we felt we needed all that "stuff" we'd just get a huge SOB motorhome or bus, save a lot of time, move on, start living, and just keep up the maintenance on the engine.
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