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Old 06-15-2011, 08:43 PM   #1
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1968 26' Overlander
West Richland , Washington
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Jim starts the ball rolling

The forums is a wonderful place. I may not know much but what I do know about Airstreams comes from the ideas and discussions from the forums I thought about owning an Airstream for a long time and know they are a lot of work but I think I have the time and energy to do this trailer justice. In fact here is my start safely on the ground. Any suggestions to the beginner?
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Old 06-15-2011, 09:09 PM   #2
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All I can say is WOW, I'm impressed!

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Old 06-15-2011, 09:13 PM   #3
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Looks like a pretty good start to me. That's a whole lot more than getting the ball started!
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Old 06-15-2011, 09:13 PM   #4
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Hey Jimand pj,
Replace the axles before you put the shell back on. I was suffering from axle replacement denial. I replaced the shell then ordered and replced the axle. Thats doing it the hard way, but thats how some of us learn.
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:46 AM   #5
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Nice to have space to work in. Good luck with it.
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Old 06-16-2011, 09:54 PM   #6
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Thanks guys. New deck, tanks, axles and paint are all in the near future.
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Old 06-16-2011, 09:58 PM   #7
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Hi, great job; Keep us updated. I like to watch these in progress since I can't even open the door on my trailer. [while parked in my driveway]
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Old 06-16-2011, 11:19 PM   #8
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Great progress, will be looking forward to your progress.
It has come to a halt here in the Houston area because of the temperature reaching near 100 and they are forecasting 105 heat index tomorrow.
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Old 06-17-2011, 03:58 PM   #9
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Welcome! Looks like you're off to a great start. Make sure to keep the sub floor, belly pan and belly skin intact for template. I used a hole saw to cut out the elevator bolts from the top. It makes the subfloor come up easier (no crawleing around under the frame). I would have the frame sandblasted. Hand prepping the frame is a time consuming job. Save your self the head ache trust me. And take lots of pics!
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:40 PM   #10
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1968 26' Overlander
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It was a dirty job

A good weekend but it was nasty. Got the deck removed and most of the foam insulation removed from the frameClick image for larger version

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The local experts tell me the foam is an aftermarket thing by a previous owner. It was a mess cleaning it all up. The first picture is where I drilled around all the anchor bolts. The foam held on to the plywood and it was tough to get up. Bigger hammer and pry bar worked.
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:49 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMandPJ View Post
A good weekend but it was nasty. Got the deck removed and most of the foam insulation removed from the frameAttachment 132860

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The local experts tell me the foam is an aftermarket thing by a previous owner. It was a mess cleaning it all up. The first picture is where I drilled around all the anchor bolts. The foam held on to the plywood and it was tough to get up. Bigger hammer and pry bar worked.
I had the foam on my 67 and don't think it is after market. It is a real PIA to get off though.

You and I are not the only ones that have found foam.
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:53 PM   #12
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Trailer not level

After I got all the gunk off the frame. I noticed the frame at the right rear seemed to droop. There is definitely a bow in the frame as it sits but I don't see kinks in the frame. In the picture its difficult to tell that the rear end sags more on the right rear that on the left but believe me, it does. I have heard that before bolting down the deck, that it should be dead level from one end to the other. Is that the only thing I need to worry about to correct this situation.

My deck was 3/4 ply and most areas of t was still sound.
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:51 PM   #13
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You know I felt like I was removing original rivets when I took off the underbelly. I saw some patches that I know were repairs but most all rivets that came out sure looked like original and I thought the foam was original also. But some members have said they've never used foam.
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Old 06-20-2011, 08:50 PM   #14
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Frame issues

A closer look at the frame and I found some dents in the lower portion of the C Channel just in front of the forward wheel and just after the rear wheel. I'm still thinking the frame sags too much but I can almost lift the rear bumper enough to flatten it out front to rear. I think these kinks are at the jacking points. Any advise out there??

The last shot is looking from the right rear bumper forward.
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Old 06-21-2011, 08:14 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by JIMandPJ View Post
A closer look at the frame and I found some dents in the lower portion of the C Channel just in front of the forward wheel and just after the rear wheel. I'm still thinking the frame sags too much but I can almost lift the rear bumper enough to flatten it out front to rear. I think these kinks are at the jacking points. Any advise out there??

The last shot is looking from the right rear bumper forward.
Once you get the sub floor off the frame it will droop a bit. The trick is to make sure that the new sub floor is dead level when you bolt it down. The pictures are fulcrum points I believe. It happens when the frame bounces up and down. If the sub floor fails then the frame bounces more violently. My solution was to box those areas by welding C channel in those areas like this []. If you want pics I can snap a couple, just did it this weekend.
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Old 06-21-2011, 05:05 PM   #16
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Not sure I understand what you've done. I currently have c-shaped channel (1 1/2 x 5 x 1 1/2) Are you suggesting boxing in the channel or adding another channel to it (3 x 5 x 3)? Photos would be good!
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:41 PM   #17
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Not sure I understand what you've done. I currently have c-shaped channel (1 1/2 x 5 x 1 1/2) Are you suggesting boxing in the channel or adding another channel to it (3 x 5 x 3)? Photos would be good!
I had C channel fabricated to fit inside the original frame like this [ ] here are a couple pics. The black is Por15 I ran out of grey
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