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garthbf · 09-23-2008, 01:57 PM

We were out camping on labor day weekend and I noticed that the black tank valve was leaking. So when we got home I started to take apart the rear end of my 75 Sovereign.
Got the bumper taken apart to find rusted tank supports.

garthbf · 09-23-2008, 02:02 PM

then of course I found the floor is rotten where the frame is bolted to the shell. and That I knew I had, the rear end seperation that most of these have after all these years.

garthbf · 09-23-2008, 02:08 PM

So... started to build new tank supports. I cut off the old ones back far enough to get some good material. then used the cut off parts as a pattern. Also cleaned up the frame and put on rust bullet treatment.

garthbf · 09-23-2008, 02:11 PM

here is another photo showing the cut off tank frame.

garthbf · 09-23-2008, 02:15 PM

for the valves I decided to replace the whole valve instead of attempting to rebuild. Since I have to get in there to remove the values and it will be easier to put the valves in and then glue in the ABS black pipe. the black pipe is standard plumbing pipe and cost about $20 for pipe and fittings.

garthbf · 09-23-2008, 02:40 PM

more photos... Picture of the picture taker taking a picture of the picture taker, taking a picture of the picture taker... oh no... stuck in a loop.

overlander63 · 09-23-2008, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garthbf

more photos... Picture of the picture taker taking a picture of the picture taker, taking a picture of the picture taker... oh no... stuck in a loop.

Getting...dizzy...looping and looping...urp...

garthbf · 09-24-2008, 08:54 AM

here is a photo after the new tank supports are welded on, bolted up and painted. also I have started to open up the skin in the back to get to all the bolts holding the body to the frame. This I will explain in a new thread under that area of the forum.

garthbf · 09-24-2008, 09:13 AM

the beginning of this thread can be seen here.http://www.airforums.com/forums/f444...g-45324.htmlSo after getting the tank frames redone and back in place we started to work on the frame seperation. started opening up the skins to get to the bolts out that hold the body to the frame.

garthbf · 09-24-2008, 09:15 AM

here is the link the the thread that continues this.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...tml#post620066

garthbf · 09-24-2008, 09:21 AM

to open up the sides to get to the large bolts I had to...
Remove the trim stip. then marked on the the skins with tape and pen where the strip goes. this is so I can cut the side-end panals under the trim strip so when I put it all back together it will not show.

garthbf · 09-24-2008, 09:32 AM

next we cut out the rotten floor back aprox. 3-4 inches. cut a some 3/4 hardwood piece to fit back in between the c channel and the frame cross member. glued this in and used long lag bolts to attach it to the existing plywood.
We cleaned and painted the steel angle that the skin is attached to. also had to make a new support of the bumper lid hinge. this was rotten completely away do to the contact with the steel angle support.

garthbf · 09-24-2008, 09:46 AM

now it is time to bolt the frame back to the c channel. Note the new bracket on the outside of the frame.

garthbf · 09-24-2008, 01:58 PM

Here are some photos of putting the skin back together. I put a backing piece of Alm under the cut on the side skins.

garthbf · 09-26-2008, 09:54 AM

More photos of putting the rear skin back together. This project was easier then I expected. The main thing was getting up the nerve to cut the side panels under the trim piece to open it up. I followed the basic steps that Inland Andy provided in a thread from a while ago on the subject. And I can say that there is no excuse for ever doing or accepting the elephant ears fix. It is good to have the correct drill bits, the rivet removal drill guide and clecos.

garthbf · 09-29-2008, 08:55 AM

here the bumper compartment pan. it has been scaped and has a hole in it. I had to put a patch on the inside. Also had to replace the rubber on the hole for the power cord.