Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-05-2011, 04:35 PM   #21
3 Rivet Member
 
tvanwave's Avatar
 
1991 34' Limited
Tyler , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
Quote:
Originally Posted by soldiermedic View Post
I think you'll find that everyone here will agree that you need to do it over again. As Frank states, the green wood contains copper (correct me if I am wrong), and will cause major corrosion with the aluminum. The monocoque design of an airstream requires that the integrity of the floor, frame, and shell all be a strong unit. The non continuous boards will have little strength compared to a sheet of plywood.

Steve
Am I understanding correctly that I will have to remove the inner skin to replace the plywood and new elevtaor bolts? Does the rear belly pan have to come off too or not?
__________________
Air Cid
2000 F250SD Crew Cab 4x4 V10
Reese WD Hitch
tvanwave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2011, 07:06 PM   #22
Rivet Master
 
soldiermedic's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Florissant , USA
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,083
Yes, Interior skins need to come out, and some of the belly pan will need to be taken down. Use new elevator bolts as well.
__________________
Streaming Soldiers Blog
soldiermedic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2011, 04:22 AM   #23
3 Rivet Member
 
tvanwave's Avatar
 
1991 34' Limited
Tyler , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
Quote:
Originally Posted by soldiermedic View Post
Yes, Interior skins need to come out, and some of the belly pan will need to be taken down. Use new elevator bolts as well.
OK - thanks for the info, no sense in doing a half-baked repair. Will any of the big box stores carry new elevator bolts?
__________________
Air Cid
2000 F250SD Crew Cab 4x4 V10
Reese WD Hitch
tvanwave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2011, 04:45 AM   #24
3 Rivet Member
 
tvanwave's Avatar
 
1991 34' Limited
Tyler , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
Quote:
Originally Posted by tvanwave View Post
OK - thanks for the info, no sense in doing a half-baked repair. Will any of the big box stores carry new elevator bolts?
I see from other posts I'll need 1/4 20 elevator bolts but cannot find a post about which length to buy. Stainless or gavanized best? Wanted to have the bolts ready for the re-do.
__________________
Air Cid
2000 F250SD Crew Cab 4x4 V10
Reese WD Hitch
tvanwave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2011, 05:06 AM   #25
Restorations done right
Commercial Member
 
Frank's Trailer Works's Avatar
 
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore , Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
Images: 2
Go to Fastenal. They come zinc or black coated. I think 1 1/4" is plenty long. You need nuts too. I use nuts, washers, and lock washers. I also bend the remaining shaft to keep the nut from coming off. Better safe, than asked to repair it over. You will also need a forstner bit to counter sink a hole in the plywood.
I strongly encourage you to read more threads and also peoples blogs that have done this work. It is not hard, but must done correctly. I sense a little of "learning as you go", and you need to be very sure about what you are doing.
Frank's Trailer Works is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2011, 09:13 AM   #26
3 Rivet Member
 
tvanwave's Avatar
 
1991 34' Limited
Tyler , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander View Post
Go to Fastenal. They come zinc or black coated. I think 1 1/4" is plenty long. You need nuts too. I use nuts, washers, and lock washers. I also bend the remaining shaft to keep the nut from coming off. Better safe, than asked to repair it over. You will also need a forstner bit to counter sink a hole in the plywood.
I strongly encourage you to read more threads and also peoples blogs that have done this work. It is not hard, but must done correctly. I sense a little of "learning as you go", and you need to be very sure about what you are doing.
Thanks for the info - its completely learn as I go on this and I appeciate the inf offered here and on some of the other posts I am now begining to read - should have done this first - guess I thought putting in a section new plywood was a no brainer....NOT
__________________
Air Cid
2000 F250SD Crew Cab 4x4 V10
Reese WD Hitch
tvanwave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2011, 09:50 AM   #27
Rivet Master
 
Dave Park's Avatar
 
2005 22' Safari
Hyde Park Place , Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 973
Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander View Post
You will also need a forstner bit to counter sink a hole in the plywood.
I "cheated" by using an air gun to tighten the nut so the head pulled into the wood. I reasoned that compressed wood would be harder. With hindsight, it was possibly a little quicker, and one less tool for me to buy, but with a do-over I would use a forstner bit too.
__________________
TX-16
Dave Park is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2011, 10:03 AM   #28
Restorations done right
Commercial Member
 
Frank's Trailer Works's Avatar
 
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore , Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
Images: 2
Dave, you got lucky. Most bolts are made of the cheapest metal alloy that will still meet the code minimums for grade. I have broken many of them just using a socket a little exuberance.
Frank's Trailer Works is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2011, 12:37 PM   #29
Rivet Master
 
Dave Park's Avatar
 
2005 22' Safari
Hyde Park Place , Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 973
One broke out of about 30. I got them from an aircraft supply place years ago. I hear they're not so good these days.
__________________
TX-16
Dave Park is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2011, 01:40 PM   #30
Rivet Master
 
noreen&sal's Avatar
 
1981 27' Excella II
mays landing , South Jersey
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,179
Images: 9
Guess where they are made? Sal.
noreen&sal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2011, 02:01 PM   #31
Rivet Master
 
soldiermedic's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Florissant , USA
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,083
It's great how this thread makes you think about things when looking at trailers to buy.

Here I was, an accepted offer made on a restored to original 56 Overlander. New floor, all original appliances working, polished...nice. As Dave Park and I were looking at some of the pictures, we noticed that during floor removal, the lower interior skins were still in. This threw up a red flag. I sent an email asking the owner how he replaced the floor without the lower skins off. "Simple, I notched out around the original bolts, and laid the plywood in". I told him that a main part of the monocoque strength came from this area, and he said that his floor was very strong, and after traveling all over it had not had a problem.

Needless to say, I am glad I didn't send a deposit in. I would have had to replace the entire floor again.

Steve
__________________
Streaming Soldiers Blog
soldiermedic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2011, 10:20 AM   #32
3 Rivet Member
 
tvanwave's Avatar
 
1991 34' Limited
Tyler , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
After reviewing another thread under this forum topic I am leaning toward using nyloboard for the redo on my floor repair. I plan to use the 3/4 inch G2 version and plane the edges to 5/8 as HiHo did in his repair. Will contact the company though to ensure the product can be planed but it seems like it should work. That way when leaks occur again in the far distant future the subfloor in that area will not need a redo.
__________________
Air Cid
2000 F250SD Crew Cab 4x4 V10
Reese WD Hitch
tvanwave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2011, 10:57 AM   #33
3 Rivet Member
 
tvanwave's Avatar
 
1991 34' Limited
Tyler , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
Nyloboard discussion here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...tml#post936112
__________________
Air Cid
2000 F250SD Crew Cab 4x4 V10
Reese WD Hitch
tvanwave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2011, 06:13 PM   #34
3 Rivet Member
 
tvanwave's Avatar
 
1991 34' Limited
Tyler , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
don't do this at home

Took some pics of my failed repair so that you can see the error of my way. First a pic of the plywood installed upto the wall - tight on the sides and gap of about 1" on end near rear door. Thought was to 'insulate' the plywood from leaky wall or whatever. Second pic is close-up of the edge - c-chanel was filled ithe 5/8 green treated (another mistake), caulked into place(yes, another mistake), and once that was done I placed the plywood in, fastened it down and put spray foam around the boarder to seal air leaks (yes - I know - now). Third pic is of fully clogged c-chanel. That caulk is very tough - unforatuantely it worked as adverised (tied removing some tonight). Four is a delightful representation of my blue foam belly insulation and a large perimter of c-chanel waiting for me. Three and five also show the nicely rusted and bent elevator bolts.

On the happy side - the forum kept me from complete disaster. This is an easier redo than a failed monocoque frame AND shell. Once I pick up my nyloboard and get the c-chanel clean I wil post some more pics.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0058.JPG
Views:	91
Size:	527.2 KB
ID:	119458   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0063.JPG
Views:	89
Size:	560.6 KB
ID:	119459  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0065.JPG
Views:	85
Size:	484.5 KB
ID:	119460   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0067.JPG
Views:	92
Size:	522.2 KB
ID:	119461  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0062.JPG
Views:	90
Size:	515.7 KB
ID:	119462  
__________________
Air Cid
2000 F250SD Crew Cab 4x4 V10
Reese WD Hitch
tvanwave is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:23 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.