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Old 02-27-2009, 02:53 AM   #1
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1968 20' Globetrotter
Long Beach , California
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 8
I'm stuck...help

Hello all,

So I've removed the entire floor and inner-skin out of my 68' GT. The c-channells are still attached to the outer skin and the belly pan is still zipped up. I was planning on lifting off the body after removing the belly pan and dis-engaging the hidden rivots but I just don't have the room. My plan was to lift the body off and then take the frame to be sand-blasted and have an AS guru take a look at it. But now I'm going to have to, IF IT'S SAFE, tow the trailer(without a floor), to the guru. So is it safe? Do I need to brace it first and if so what is the best set-up for that. Can the frame be sand-blasted with the body attached? What is the cost for sand-blasting a 20' trailer?

Thanks for your replys,
Troy
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Old 02-27-2009, 06:12 AM   #2
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1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
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I towed my trailer around 30 miles round-trip with half the floor out. I think you can do it, but you need to take it slow.

I'd recommend that you place scraps of 3/4" thick wood under the c-channel wherever it intersects the frame or outriggers. Use c-clamps to hold them in place if the weight of the shell isn't enough to hold them there.

I'm not sure about blasting the frame while the shell is still attached, but if it does end up being a bad idea after checking with others, then you don't have to do it. You can always wire-wheel off the scaling rust and then paint the steel frame with POR-15 or other similar products.

Good luck!

-Marcus
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Old 02-27-2009, 06:21 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by troyreeb View Post
Hello all,

So I've removed the entire floor and inner-skin out of my 68' GT. The c-channells are still attached to the outer skin and the belly pan is still zipped up. I was planning on lifting off the body after removing the belly pan and dis-engaging the hidden rivots but I just don't have the room. My plan was to lift the body off and then take the frame to be sand-blasted and have an AS guru take a look at it. But now I'm going to have to, IF IT'S SAFE, tow the trailer(without a floor), to the guru. So is it safe? Do I need to brace it first and if so what is the best set-up for that. Can the frame be sand-blasted with the body attached? What is the cost for sand-blasting a 20' trailer?

Thanks for your replys,
Troy
Depends on how far you want to take the trailer. Corona is about 60 miles or so from you.

Putting about 6 temporary bolts back in would be a great help, but stay below 40 mph.

Giving an estimate on the chassis is difficult, without seeing the chassis.

But for sure, it will be at least several hundred dollars, but again, it all depends on what may have to be replaced or repaired.

Andy
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Old 02-27-2009, 07:03 AM   #4
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1964 28' Ambassador
Oklahoma City , Oklahoma
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I'm far from being any sort of expert, but, hey, opinions are free around here. I'd say that if the inner skins are out, you've taken about fifty percent of the structural integrity of the wall system away. Removing the sub floor (even if you put spacers in the void between the frame and the c-channel) makes it even more squirrely. I lifted the shell off my frame and the thing shakes like jello. I wouldn't think of towing it anywhere. Consider the purchase or lease of a sandblaster (or a soda blaster). In the long run, it'd be less expensive than risking transport of a compromised structural system.
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Old 02-27-2009, 07:27 AM   #5
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1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
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Everyone has to make these decisions for themselves. I think in general, people underestimate the strength of that outer shell. Like I said, I towed mine 30 miles while it was missing the rear half of the floor, with no lower panels in the rear, and no bellypan.

One idea to help improve the structural integrity though, would be to not only slide in pieces of scrap wood between the channel and frame, but to go ahead and bolt it through. The bolts can always be removed once the trailer is back home and ready for frame work.

Just some ideas, you should not do anything you're not comfortable with.

Good Luck!
-Marcus
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Old 02-27-2009, 04:51 PM   #6
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1967 24' Tradewind
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Another idea would be to have a sandblaster come to you. In my area there are mobile sandblasters. Can the guru come to your place?
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Old 03-01-2009, 12:55 AM   #7
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1968 20' Globetrotter
Long Beach , California
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I've decided to have the "sage of the AS" come to me for a look and wire wheel/brush the frame. It's not as bad as I thought so between the wheel, sand paper and a brush I think I can get it done. I'm just a little concerned about the frame at the very front and back since they are impossible to get to. Should I just jack these areas up a bit? I'd like to get those areas clean and painted also. Now my focus will turn to holding tanks. I'd like to add a grey and have all three mounted between the floor board and the belly pan. Where can I order them and what is the best sizes for a 20 foot GT? Do these come with brackets? Thanks guys!

Troy
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Old 03-01-2009, 12:56 AM   #8
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Sandblasting can be directed to the required areas without damaging the shell. You can use a scrap piece of thin plywood or sheet metal to protect the aluminum while you work at it.
Tow slow! Good luck
Rich
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