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Old 01-17-2010, 12:20 AM   #21
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1990 29' Excella
Los Angeles , California
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thanks. all together. gotta replace my toilet water valve unless it's fixable. is it? otherwise, floors are done, leaks fixed. on to the detail work of putting all the screws back and getting the bathroom door to shut

i've got a bunch of pics i'll post when i'm more alive. my knees and back need sleep.
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Old 01-17-2010, 12:55 AM   #22
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1948 16' Wee Wind
1964 26' Overlander
2007 19' Bambi
crossville , Tennessee
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the copper crimp rings for pec &qest piping are cheap compared to ss hose clamps and are much stronger. the tool for crimping are a little pricey but are easy to build. 2 pieces of 3/4" square bar stock 4" long and 2 - 3/8" bolts 3" long are all thats required. clamp square bar stock pieces together in vise lined up even and drill holes at either end 1/2" centered in from ea. and install bolts and tighten then drill 11/16 hole in center of divide, presto you now own crimping tool for 1/2" pipe. i have 1 that i left 1 piece 12" long so i have a handle and can use my air ratchet to tighten (speeds the process. but this works fine with a crescent to hold while tightening with a wrench.i often run into situations where my 125.00 bolt cutter style crimper just won't get to ! and this little 1 fits almost everywhere.
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Old 01-17-2010, 01:00 AM   #23
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1948 16' Wee Wind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TankerIP View Post
Not sure about your model. But water can come in from the rear bumper if there is not a good seal under the rub rail. Just a warning.
most common leak point i have found in 40 years of working on airstreams.
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Old 01-17-2010, 08:11 AM   #24
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1998 25' Safari
Avonton , Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minno View Post
Regular wood filler is just that - a filler, not a glue. If you want to fill the joint and also bind it all together, I'd use an epoxy. Just make sure the bottom of the joint is sealed somehow to keep the epoxy from just running out the bottom and into the belly pan.
Here's a new type of epoxy I found. Haven't tried it yet but it looks like a great product for a trailer. I have some and will try it soon, then report on how it workes.
Repairs wood in minutes, PolyAll 2000
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Old 01-17-2010, 08:43 AM   #25
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1993 34' Excella
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Estancia , New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shacksman View Post
Here's a new type of epoxy I found. Haven't tried it yet but it looks like a great product for a trailer. I have some and will try it soon, then report on how it workes.
Repairs wood in minutes, PolyAll 2000
Looks like could be good as a filler but it is not clear if it works as a penetrating epoxy treatment that actually hardens surrounding wood such as Rot Doctor.
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Old 01-17-2010, 10:38 AM   #26
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Looks like could be good as a filler but it is not clear if it works as a penetrating epoxy treatment that actually hardens surrounding wood such as Rot Doctor.
The samples they had in the store, with rotten wood, showed that it soaked in like water and hardened stronger then the original wood. It also works on cement and steel. There was a sample of 2 pieces of cement stuck together that I couldn't break apart. Also had a piece of metal with fiberglass cloth stuck to it, over a hole. Just as strong as the metal. It's just too good to believe, so I'll try it first.
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