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ArtStream · 02-04-2007, 02:13 PM

Hi Dave!
Welcome to the Forum!
I see your with BRC Operations, will be headed your way this year. Hope we can meet.

Michael

Wabbiteer · 02-04-2007, 02:13 PM

Vapor barriers are to be installed next to the "conditioned' air side only, not towards the heat. Good insulation will keep hot moist airflow away from the barrier where it could condense from living space air conditioning, and the insulation will allow the barrier to be at room temperature when the outside air is cool enough to cause condensation from living area high humidity....

ArtStream · 02-04-2007, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wabbiteer

Vapor barriers are to be installed next to the "conditioned' air side only, not towards the heat. Good insulation will keep hot moist airflow away from the barrier where it could condense from living space air conditioning, and the insulation will allow the barrier to be at room temperature when the outside air is cool enough to cause condensation from living area high humidity....

?

nickcrowhurst · 02-04-2007, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gerlach Dave

Wire ties, just use 4 wire ties set 90 degrees to each other, cut them to fit the shape and shove away. You can wrap them with tape to keep them lined up. The nylon will keep things centered and be flexible enough to not get stuck.

Dave, thanks for that idea. I'll try it out next month. Nick.

Wabbiteer · 02-08-2007, 08:36 AM

Artstream, in the middle of post #14 was something needing clarifacation... " To prevent this condensation, a complete vapor barrier is required on the hot side of..." So let's change the terminology from "hot' to 'conditioned' airspace for accuracies sake. A vapor barrier misinstalled is a terrible liability to any structure!

Lumatic · 02-08-2007, 08:47 AM

Regarding the vapor barrier/ condensation subthread here:

Would it NOT be a good idea, then, to replace the fiberglass in the belly, or walls for that matter, with a closed cell foam product to increase the R value?

ckeysor · 02-08-2007, 09:32 AM

I had a bad rust problem with my 1986 Sovereign mostly related to the frame and crossmembers. I contacted Gary at RV Restoration in Dalton, GA. Really glad I did. He took off the belly pan, removed the worst of the rust, replaced any crossmembers or frame parts that were damaged and then painted the frame with POR-15. He also replaced all the insulation with 4X8 closed cell panel insulation. He then finished the job by replacing and oxidized aluminum under belly panels and sealed it up. Some point soon, I will put vents in to reduce condensation (as someone as suggested) and maybe rust proof the inside of the box frame.

The job was extensive and well done. He even posts pictures of the work daily as he progresses. This is a link to all the pictures. New Page 1 I didn't have time to do the work, so I needed someone I could trust. Gary listened to all the recommendations posted on this forum and then did a fabulous job. I am convinced by Airstream will last another 20 years due to his efforts.

Despite the problems I have had with my 1986, I had a 2004 that was already rusting coming out of the dealer. This is just an issue every Airstream will have to work with until the factory changes the manufacturing process.

ckeysor · 02-08-2007, 09:36 AM

ps. to see my project go 1/2 way down the page to the tab called "Airstream Repair".

nickcrowhurst · 03-02-2007, 07:37 AM

I've just carried out the spraying of the inside of the frame box sections with the rust-proofing fluid. To keep the spray nozzle in the center of the box frame I eventually settled on a piece of thin flexible plastic, cut from the lid of a Tupperware-type box. I cut a rectangle of plastic the same shape as the box section, so as to fit inside the box section with one eigth of an inch clearance round all four sides. I pierced a hole in the center of this, and slid the spray end of the 24 foot steel tube through the hole, so that about 4 inches of the end protruded. I slid a close fitting steel penny washer onto the tube on each side of the plastic, and located these tight up to the plastic with about ten turns of duct tape round the steel tube on the outside of each washer. It worked, and I made about 6 passes down each of the box sections. The flexible plastic negotiated some small obstructions in the frame, and enabled the tube to be withdrawn after the plastic had dropped out of the far end of the long sections. I fed the spray tube down the box sections, while my wife operated the spray gun lever when I asked. We did this for the two 22 foot frame lengths from the back end, and for the two shorter lengths forming the A-frame at the front of the trailer. After sorting out a damaged O-ring in the spray gun, the job went as planned.
One point worthy of note is that the trailer was filled with the fumes from the sprayed fluid, as the long box sections vent into the belly pan. We full-time in the trailer, so we were sleeping in the trailer the next night, and even with all windows open, the fumes were unpleasant. The next day, after the fluid had a chance to evaporate its solvent, I used the compressor to blow air down the box sections, and the fumes were gone.
On my trailer, the worrying corrosion of the frame is on the inside of the box sections, so for me this job was worth the time, thinking, energy and money it took to complete.
Nick.