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Old 04-20-2013, 09:06 PM   #1
3 Rivet Member
1969 27' Overlander
Boise , Idaho
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 149
Images: 4
"How did that stay there?"

I just took delivery of my '69 Overlander. PO started his renovation, then gave up and sold it. I had it towed from Kentucky to Idaho, got it yesterday, and today started my work, and boy is there gonna be work. After generally cleaning things up and taking inventory yesterday, today I decided to finish the bathroom demolition that PO started. After a few minutes I had to wonder exactly how the black water tank managed to make the trip from Kentucky, and why it isn't on the highway somewhere in Nebraska.

I'm not sure how this is supposed to be installed, but it looks to me like the tank pan is galvanized steel, and sits on two pieces of angle iron, front and rear, that span the rear frame bay. I don't know if that's how the factory built it, but that's how this one was built. The rear angle iron (closest to bumper) is entirely gone. The Thetford valve was resting on a piece of steel channel that the bottom of the hose locker was riveted to, and that piece of channel, was attached to nothing.

Here's a photo, not sure how visible the problem will be.

This evening I freed up that portion of the belly pan, and managed to pull the tank and tank pan. Discovered the piece of angle iron at teh front, was, at its worst point, approximately 1/2" high, and pure rust. I really don't know how the thing made it here.

If you've read this far perhaps you can help me answer these questions. The trailer frame is rusted but not too badly. POR-15 should stop the disease process. But how was the tank and tank pan originally hung? Was it on two pices of angle? If so, how can I attach some new angle to the frame? I don't weld, I don't want to tow this thing to a welder (I fought it into my back yard which is where I'll rehab it, it is very difficult to get in and out of the yard). How difficult would it be to drill holes and bolt in new material? Or would that weaken the structure too much?

Your assistance appreciated.

Oh, yeah, of what should a new tank pan be made? Steel is an excellent material but in this day of synthetics do I really need something that will just rust again? Or can I buy one somewhere?
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:23 PM   #2
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2016 25' Flying Cloud
Sunnyvale , California
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,885
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In most areas, welders make housecalls with equipment in back of truck.. Pretty sure it was indeed resting on angles, with bracket to hold in position. Toilet mounted through wood sub-floor also firmly attached to tank and would hold in place as well...

As for replacement tanks, some RV supply and parts places sell them, as does Airstream.. Challenge may be adapting tank fluid level sensors if needed...

In Theory, there's no difference between Theory and Practice, but in Practice, there is usually a difference...
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:43 PM   #3
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1969 27' Overlander
SW , Missouri
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 121
Your black tank installation is basically how it came from the factory. Minus the rust and decay of course. The galvanized pan should be supported front and rear by angle iron. There should be bolts fastening the angle to lugs on the frame. There is only one bolt at each end of the angle (4 total).

I replaced my galvanized pan with a fabricated aluminum pan made from 0.100" sheet. I had a local shop shear the sheet and brake the long sides up. I riveted the ends in using 1/8" x 2" angle to form the corner. If I were doing it again, I would probably just have the ends brake formed and eliminate the angle.

I added a grey water tank in the first bay behind the axles. I used a Trionic S-H2030 from Tank Depot for the grey tank. Since it's a flat bottom tank, I built that pan with a slope to improve drainage.

Each pan was about $200 including aluminum angle for mounting.
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Old 04-20-2013, 11:05 PM   #4
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1969 27' Overlander
Boise , Idaho
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 149
Images: 4
Thanks, Kyle, that is exactly what I needed to know, and I appreciate the info on how you had your pans made.
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