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Old 07-07-2004, 12:29 PM   #21
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I am almost certain its box - should have some round holes that you can poke around the inside of the box and feel for rust.
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Old 07-09-2004, 12:59 PM   #22
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thanks for the info... i've been a bit distracted lately, a lot of things going on so i've only been able to work on the trailer in small steps.... im still trying to remove all the inner-skin panels...i can't get over how the mice get everywhere... my biggest nest so far was right above the entry door...So im hoping to get all the skin remover by the end of the weekend, then im ready to pull up the floor and trake a look at the type of frame design i have, and what shape it is in. Alos, I am excited that my new marmoleum tiles showed up yesterday with the adhesive...190lb pallete in the back of a semi...that was interesting to get to the door, and unload it.
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Old 07-11-2004, 05:17 PM   #23
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I've made a good deal of progress, if anyone is interested in seeing they can take a look at my members photo page on airstreamphotos.com
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Old 07-11-2004, 09:13 PM   #24
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Wow, almost looks like one being assembled in the factory.
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Old 07-16-2004, 01:22 PM   #25
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okay, so here's the update. The belly pan is off, the front 4 feet of plywood was cut into squares with a hand circular saw, then ripped out. This leaves the edge of the wood still between the frame and the channels in the shell. My father and I have argued about whether the floor needs to come up first or not. I do not want to remove the floor, leaving the holes, etc all there to make appropriate templates. He insists that we should cut out the floor because it will be easier to work. We are having trouble getting the bolts out that hold the shell to the plywood. Any suggestions, i just went out and boutht a bunch of cut-off wheels for the dremel. Any suggestions as to supporting the shell in the air properly without damaging the shape. It seems that the panels come down the side and curl underneath, leaving me with no direct access to the channels in the shell to rest the shell on a board. We have a few thoughts on how we can do this, but i would appreciate input from someone who has already worked through this problem. Thanks. --Chad--
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Old 07-19-2004, 07:00 PM   #26
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Bracing the body, etc...

Chad,

It sounds like I am just a little bit ahead of where you are in your process. Check out the forum topic "Shell Off vs Shell On" and look for my post titled "Time to post a progress report...". The bracing technique I used there has worked just fine and did not require all that much in the way of extra materials. I have only been able to get the first two sheets of plywood installed since that posting because I had to spend time fixing a few things on the frame and painting. The bracing did work just great though and did allow me to apply focussed lift to the part of the body where I was working on inserting plywood.

There are some ways that I found that worked to help lift the body in a given spot for inserting a piece of plywood. The two sheets I installed so far are lengthwise at the back of the trailer. I needed to be able to apply lift on one side without putting a jack in the area where the sheet of plywood had to fit. Here is what I did:

1.) I used a luggage tie down strap to hold down the 2 x 4 cross piece near the end opposite where I wanted to lift the body.

2.) I put a loose 2 x 4 lengthwise on top of the cross members as close as I could get to the side that had to be lifted without blocking where the new sheet had to go.

3.) I set my bottle jack on top of the loose 2 x 4 and applied lift to the cross member. Since the force was off center toward where the luggage strap was fastened the 2 x 4 would have lifted at the wrong end if I had not tied it down. Instead the end I wanted to lift went up just fine and took the body with it.

I did have some comments in the posting that I mentioned as to how to carefully measure the floor and make good notes. I found that bracing the body and then going for full floor removal has proven to be just fine. I do agree that it was a pain to get out some of the bolts and screws, especially some of the ones along the body edges. Again see my post for some ideas and tool suggestions.

Basically I found that the process of removing all the floor and all the old fastenings was a lot of work but mostly needed sweat and patience. Having someone to help you will make a lot of difference at least for morale. As I recall the whole process of getting the bracing in and all of my floor out took me 3 full days of work. You also have an advantage in that your rig is not as long as mine.

Please let me know if you have any questions about what I posted in the other thread. Check out the photos that I posted in my photo area.

Malcolm
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Old 07-20-2004, 10:33 AM   #27
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Thank You for the information and tips. I have successfully removed all the bolts on the shell-to-floor. Now i have the shell suspended about 4" above the frame. We have completed all the bracing, and built 4 saw horses to rest the shell on. By the end of the day today I hope to have the shell suspended, and the frame pulled out from underneath. We are going to have to do some frame repair, but luckily it is not much. Also we plan to modify the frame in the rear to add a gray-water tank just behind the axles. Still deceiding whether to do sand-blasting then epoxy-paint, or just POR-15 it.
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Old 07-20-2004, 07:28 PM   #28
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Picture update

This is at 9:30 tonight, hopefully we can get it supported fully tonight to be ready to tow out the frame tomorrow.



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Old 07-20-2004, 09:08 PM   #29
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update update!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The shell is off, and supported- YAY. Tomorrow in the light we will make sure that everything is out of the way, and will pull the frame out from underneath the shell.








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Old 07-21-2004, 06:23 AM   #30
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How did you make out in those storms we had over the weekend? You're right down the road from us and it was pretty windy here.
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Old 07-21-2004, 11:38 AM   #31
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I waited until after the storm to start lifting, so i was okay... It is up, and the frame is pulled out from underneath. Now to do just a little more bracing, then we're going to tie it down to the ground...I'm going to go take pictures of it now, i'll post them in a little while.
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Old 07-21-2004, 12:02 PM   #32
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Fun time isn't it? LOL Been there done that got the merit badge.

Now I'm trying to wrap it up.
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Old 07-21-2004, 03:42 PM   #33
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got carried away and forgot to download the pictures to my computer... but here they are. Now I just have to make measurements of the holes in the floor, and document it all for cutting the new plywood.


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Old 07-21-2004, 05:46 PM   #34
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What display mode?

JeepinAudiophile,

I am curious what display mode setting you are using for viewing this thread. If you don't know what I am refering to I mean the settings on the "Display Modes" menu item at the top. I ask because I have been using the "Hybrid Mode" and I discovered that not all of the posts were showing up when I looked at the thread that way. When I changed to the "Linear Mode" they all appear with the most recent one at the top of the list.

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Old 07-21-2004, 08:55 PM   #35
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I am using the linear mode. I do not know why some of the posts would not show up in hybrid mode.
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Old 07-26-2004, 01:36 PM   #36
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Talking

Update: the floor is off, and we are modifying the frame to put in a new black water tank, and add a gray water. The black water tank was destroyed since it had become the floor in the bathroom when the wood rotted away. So try not to be too jealous about this...lol We are installing 2 tanks... one for black and one for gray... 35 gallons each. I will continue taking pictures of the progress, but i begin work tomorrow so i will be left to working a few hours at night, and the weekends.
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Old 07-26-2004, 02:24 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepinAudiophile
We are installing 2 tanks... one for black and one for gray... 35 gallons each.
Will your A/S weight capacity be able to handle the load of two full 35 gallon tanks?
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Old 07-26-2004, 03:24 PM   #38
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Talking

We believe so... i have a pair of 2500 lb axles, and the previous loaded weight was 4200. We will be adding roughly 350lbs of extra weight when both are full. The rear bath dictates where one of the tanks has to be- right below the toilet... so there's one of the 35g. tanks which will be length-wise sideways, almost the full width of the frame rails. The other one we have more room to work with, so it will be sitting agains the axles on one end (lengthwise with the frame) leaving it's loaded weight very close to the pivot of the frame. We also decided to add a bunch of frame support to strengthen the rear vertical load carrying ability. The designs are forming as we work, i can't wait to get it done and get out camping. To date i have taken slightly under 450 digital photos... so there will be plenty pictures of the project to see.
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Old 07-26-2004, 03:35 PM   #39
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I appreciate the above discussion. My "new" 31' (1986) had some bad floor areas which I have removed (the front 4 feet and near door). Also bad under toilet.

Questions:
#1 - I believe I have heard it recommended that a wax ring be used under the stool. Right?
#2 - I have not removed any interior shell. The floor was rotten enough in most places to be cleaned out of the outer groove with hand tools. I plan to replace by notching where bolts, screws come down. I there a structural reason not to do this?
#3 - Insulation. Do I understand that water inside is a given and I don't want insulation to lay on belly pan? It appears water has entered along the floor to shell seal, and I plan to seal it well with Vulkem outside & maybe some silicon inside. I would like to have it dry from the get-go. And place fibergalss bats on the belly pan.

Any help would be gratly appreciated.

Dwight
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Old 07-26-2004, 03:50 PM   #40
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I am learning as i go, the people in this forum have been greatly helpful in keeping my learning curve in the safety zone- so surely they will be able to help you as well. What do you mean by notching the bottom? The bottom of the inner skin?
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