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12-08-2013, 08:45 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member 
1963 28' Ambassador
1978 28' Ambassador
Boerne
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 43
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Has anyone used molly bolts ?
Here is the issue, I have removed the old sub floor. Cut the bolt off, etc. The belly is still intact and I really don't want to take it off. I have added some framing through the middle and I can screw the floor down with no problem. I can't however use elevator bolts around thise channel because of course I can't get to the under side to put the nut . Has anyone a suggestion as to how to attach the channel to the floor. I was thinking maybe molly bolts. Has anyone tried. This is on a 56 Flying Cloud and the belly pan will a pain to take apart and I'm to scared to do the full Monty.
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12-08-2013, 09:11 PM
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#2
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Moderator

1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,920
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IMHO, you really don't have any options except to access under the floor to put nuts on at least some of the bolts. In particular the ones on the very ends of the outriggers where the bolts go thru the C channel, floor and outrigger. That's a pretty important connection.
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12-08-2013, 10:44 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master 
1976 Argosy 22
Pasadena
, California
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 533
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I did not use the bolts when I replaced my sub floor. I also did not take off the belly pan. I used at least 2-3 times as many of these to secure the outriggers to the floor and C Channel. The are self tapping so you can easily secure them without opening up the belly. It wasn't recommended by anyone on these forums but I decided to give it a try. So far so good.
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12-09-2013, 03:30 AM
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#4
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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if your looking to do it easy, I am sure you will find someone to say it is okay. If you want to do it right however...
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12-09-2013, 04:48 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master 
1961 24' Tradewind
1969 29' Ambassador
1970 21' Globetrotter
Jamestown
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,783
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I pieced the floor in so was able to reach under the outer pieces to put most of the nuts on that went through the channel with out dropping the belly pan. In the tight areas around the front and the rear I simply drilled all the way through, belly pan and all and enlarged the access hole in the pan to get the nuts on. The holes can then be covered with foil tape if desired.
My floor is better attached than it was when new and no one has ever said anything about the holes if they noticed them.
Of course Frank will probably notice them at the next Bash
__________________
Rick Davis 1602 K8DOC
61 tradewind, plus a few others
13 Ram 2500 TD
99 Dodge TD 577K miles
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12-09-2013, 06:25 PM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member 
1963 28' Ambassador
1978 28' Ambassador
Boerne
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 43
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Ok,so I think I'm going to drop the front and rear section of the belly where the trim band goes, that way if I screw up drilling out the rivets the band will cover it.
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12-09-2013, 08:52 PM
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#7
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Site Team

1963 26' Overlander
Hollis
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,647
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If your going to do the front and back you might as well do the whole thing  the full monte actually is easier... Just make templates of the floor brace the frame and do it. There are many who have documented it on the forums. A 56 deserves it!
__________________
Shelly : TAC NH-6 | AIR 41359
Visit my blog!
Parts needed : Braund Antenna front tube fold down model!
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03-23-2014, 03:18 AM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member 
1961 16' Bambi
grass valley
, California
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 136
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Rick - I am currently in the same situation and I love your idea! The pan on my bambi, especially at the edges is tough to remove. What length and size bolt did you use? And what material - stainless? Finally, what spacing? Thanks!
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03-23-2014, 03:44 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master 
1966 17' Caravel
Newport
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,288
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Self taping screws or bolts will work well IF the metal that you are using them in or on is of sufficient thickness and strength to hold the bolt or provide enough material for the bolt to thread to. Not sure the outriggers will help you there of course they may hold just fine at first but then what happens when you add the stress of moving the trailer and it flexes and the vibration? Better safe then sorry but since you own it have a blast and do it the way that your happy. Half inch cotton rope will hold your weight but should you bungee with it?
Just my thoughts.
Cliff
__________________
Gotta get busy! Have a great day! Now where did I put those revits?
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03-23-2014, 03:48 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master 
1966 17' Caravel
Newport
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,288
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Oh yes, since my parents used this crap on me here it goes! "Yes Johnny used those bolts and if Johnny jumps off a bridge with half inch cotton rope are you going to jump also?"
Cliff
__________________
Gotta get busy! Have a great day! Now where did I put those revits?
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03-23-2014, 08:08 AM
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#11
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3 Rivet Member 
1961 16' Bambi
grass valley
, California
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 136
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I agree rm66. There is too much movement and I thing the self tappers would work loose. I think I might use ricks idea and bolt it.
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03-23-2014, 08:20 AM
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#12
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Moderator

1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickDavis
... belly pan and all and enlarged the access hole in the pan to get the nuts on...
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That made me think...how about getting a few inches under the belly pan and making an 'inspection panel' like on aircraft?
They are 4" - 6" diameter aluminum plates that can be removed during the annual inspection for access to the interior of things like wings.
It would take some planning to get the panel on the proper side of each outrigger but then you could remove the panel, reach inside the belly and install the nut.
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