I found it useful to plate over the front six feet of the frame. I did this with 12ga steel formed into a deep channel, 2" x 4" inside dimension. These were slipped over the front 6' of the existing frame and welded continuous along the bottom. Needed to replace the front outriggers to do this. Also replaced the hitch coupling.
I also opened up a spot forward of the axle to mount a 28 gal greywater tank.
markdoane, you added the gray tank to the forward axle? could you help me out with my question on this thread.
Here is a picture of the spot where the greywater tank was located. I made room for it by cutting out one crossmember, then adding two more with a 24.5" space, for a 24"x52.5"x8.5", 28 gallon tank from Accutank. http://www.accutanks.com/ronco_holding.htm
Here is a picture of the spot where the greywater tank was located. I made room for it by cutting out one crossmember, then adding two more with a 24.5" space, for a 24"x52.5"x8.5", 28 gallon tank from Accutank. http://www.accutanks.com/ronco_holding.htm
Markdoane - That tank looks great, but If I place my tank there how do I get the pluming around the axel?
I guess I’ll re-frame this question. I haven’t gone to the welder yet because I still don’t feel comfortable on what to ask for. I’d like add a graytank but don’t know where to put it, or for that matter what I need to know to successfully complete this installation. I’ve trolled the forums and for some reason I can’t get my head around what I need to do. I can produce whatever reference you need, Images, drawings, measurements, whatever.
here is a rough drawing of my frame - I can give mesurments if needed.
if theres someone in the dallas area that could help please let me know. I'll be forever in your dept.
I’m going to the welder in the next couple of days. Just wanted to get the infinite knowledge from the forum.
If you had the chance to update the frame, What would you do???
should I add support? Outriggers? ect..
thanks for your advice.
My '75 Trade Wind has limited storage space outside. When I needed to remove the black tank I tool the opportunity to add an extra foot to the bumper. Now I at least have enough room for the Power cable and sewer hose. The belly pan had enough length to reattach without making a new one too. Also we put in a Marine power disconnect.
I'm not sure what you want me to do. The steps I followed were:
1. Layout where the sinks/shower are located. Figure out best way to route the drain lines from the sinks to the greytank. Make sure the lines pitch downward, and keep them inside cabinets or lockers where possible. Be sure to consider location of furnace, water heater, ductwork, electrical panels.
2. Pick a location under the floor where you can locate the greywater tank. Things to consider are:
a. Balance. Keep the tank as close to the axle as possible. Avoid the rear bumper.
b. Where to locate the outlet of the greytank. Usually streetside.
c. Where to locate tank inlets, to connect to sinks and shower drains.
d. Where to locate tank vents. These can co-locate with the sink drain lines.
3. Find a tank which most closely fits the underfloor space you have picked. In my case, the space was ahead of the axle. It doesn't look like you have room ahead of the axle to fit a useful size tank.
If I was looking for a space on your drawing, I would pick the area just behind the axle. I would cut out the crossmember just behind the rear of the wheelwell. If you move it forward a foot, you could put a 28 gal tank like mine just behind the axle.
The tank Malcolm shows might be just the ticket. It's very hard to tell the size of the space behind the axle. In your drawing it looks like about 15", but your earlier photo it looks like a full 24".
Are you planning to cut that spare tire bracket off the rear bumper?
markdoane - the notes on what I need to keep in mind is really helping.
malconium - that tank looks like it'll do the trick. I'll make measurement tomorrow and post.
I guess with all the systems on my GT so far I've been able to rip it out, look at it, take notes, and recreate. With this graytank it's totally new, I've never even spent a night in an RV so I'm not always sure what I want or how to get there.
I guess i have a couple more questions.
1. how do the Black and Gray tanks coexist with each-other. do they need to have some sort of relationship, or are they totally separate entities?
2. should I consider moving the freshwater/holding tank from the front above the sub-floor to under? what are the ramifications?
The black and grey tank do not need to have a relationship, but often they do. Usually the blackwater tank and greywater tank are wye'd together so that both can be dumped from a single dump hose connection. The black tank is dumped first, then the grey tank, so that the greywater flushes the solids out of the dumphose.
I would not move the freshwater tank below the floor. You want the pump, filters, connections and tubing to be above the floor for good access. Most pumps are gravity fed from the tank, so mounting the tank below the pump is not recommended. It can work, just isn't recommended. Also, keep the supply tank and plumbing above the floor to keep them from freezing.
That's a good point for the greywater tank, too. You should either insulate it, provide a heating pad, or circulate warm air around the greywater tank. I made a fiberglaqs cover for mine with 3/4" isocyanate insulation.
In the process of renovating my 25'. Are some people placing the black, grey and fresh water tanks above the sub-floor? Due to my climate there is great concern about freezing and the current placement of the water tanks in the frame while logical for space use is unnerving in winter time.
In the process of renovating my 25'. Are some people placing the black, grey and fresh water tanks above the sub-floor? Due to my climate there is great concern about freezing and the current placement of the water tanks in the frame while logical for space use is unnerving in winter time.
camping in an airstream in the winter time is even more unnerving!
different years/different models had the tanks in various places. in yours, the fresh tank is open to the living area via the cutout under the galley. plus, I think the compartment is insulated with a layer of foam. in the years where grey/black tanks were under the floor, they had the furnace ducted to the areas to keep them from freezing. but in any case, I don't think they ever really intended these things to be "freeze-proof", or useable in any temperature extreme...just enough to get you through some chilly, just barely sub-freezing mornings in late fall or early spring.
don: in the 70's models, there is a cut-out area under the galley through which all the plumbing is accessible...low point drains, and tank connections. but the pump sits at floor level.
my question: how do you mount a tank like the one mentioned earlier...with the "flange-like" top? angle iron bolted to the x-members? wondering how you access both sides of the bolts to install/remove? and what to do about covering it, especially if it hangs down below the frame a bit?
The tank would fit. The outside is exactly 24.0", so you would have 1/8" clearance.
I assume the crossmembers are arranged with the webs forward, and the 24 1/4" dimension is the on-center distance. If the 24 1/4" is the 'clear' opening, then you actually have more space.
However, I am concerned about the position of the outlet on the tank that I am using. The outlet is positioned at the forward corner of the tank. From looking at the photo in your first posting, the outlet would therefore be located inside the wheel well area. That doesn't agree with your drawing, which shows the rear outriggers even with the crossmember.
the crossmembers are arranged with webs forward and the 24 1/4 is from metal to metal, I think thats the same thing as “on-center” distance. I’m planing on putting the tank in the crossmember section past the axle (see new image), not the one the axle is located in.
This thread has got my dreamfitting ideas going. I don't want to do a full monte, but I could envision a bit of burlesque. Burlesque, in my mind is not taking off everything, but a few things close to the naughty bits.
Namely, exposing a bit of skin would involve cutting off a segment, but not all of the belly pan.
Would installing a grey tank be possible in that circumstance? Access would only be from the bottom, although possibly from a lift.
Shall I keep my Aluminum tease-o-rama dream--or is it far outside the realm of the conceivable?
This thread has got my dreamfitting ideas going. I don't want to do a full monte, but I could envision a bit of burlesque. Burlesque, in my mind is not taking off everything, but a few things close to the naughty bits.
Namely, exposing a bit of skin would involve cutting off a segment, but not all of the belly pan.
Would installing a grey tank be possible in that circumstance? Access would only be from the bottom, although possibly from a lift.
Shall I keep my Aluminum tease-o-rama dream--or is it far outside the realm of the conceivable?
Mary
Mary,
Remember what your mother taught you. It is best to leave something to the imagination.
If you start attempting to to bring your aluminum fantasies to life you will lose all of the "leaving something to the imagination".
You will go from burlesque to full-monty in 60 seconds flat!
Please for the love of God and all that is sane. Don't do it!!!!
I don't see any particular reason why you couldn't add a grey tank without taking the entire belly pan off. You will have to cut back part of the belly pan anyway if the tank is to hang down below the belly pan. The trick is really how best to go about getting enough access without a total removal. I, for one, think it can be done.
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