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Old 09-04-2010, 06:12 AM   #1
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kaydee's Avatar
1971 29' Ambassador
Waterboro , Maine
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 75
Frame Restoration

Were almost ready to call the welder in for frame repairs.
I just ordered POR 15 marine paint.
My question's .....
Should I sand blast first? wire brush?
I did not order the 4 step process supplies.
Should I order the 4 step supplies? Is this necessary
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Old 09-04-2010, 06:52 AM   #2
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Good morning Kaydee.
4 step process: 1) Marine Clean necessary to remove gunk & oils for proper adhesion of POR-15
2) Metal Etch necessary for proper adhesion to new steel
3) POR -15 nedded for all metal surfaces
4) Top coat needed for all surfaces exposed to sunlight. A frame, bumper, area axle support etc.
Sand blasting is not necessary but you should wire brush all loose rust flakes. POR -15 will encapsulate all areas of metal but must have solid material to adhere to.
Are you planning to drop the belly pan before POR-15?
How are you planning to apply POR to frame area that are still covered by the shell and wheel wells? What about the front and rear holddown plates? They are sandwiched between C channels and frame and one side of vertical is hidden behind outer skin. How do you plan to apply POR-15 to those area? What about the outer upper edge of the outriggers that the side Cchannel is sitting on. How will you apply POR-15 to these edges?
IMHO shell must be lifted to do it properly.
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Old 09-04-2010, 07:15 AM   #3
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1971 29' Ambassador
Waterboro , Maine
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 75
Wasagachris - Thanks for the info.
This 29foot trailer just seems too long for a frame off restoration. Appears that I would need a crane to get it lifted off. We have installed some bracing. Will add more pics here today.
Some of the belly pan has been removed, the remainder will be removed this week, along with the wheel wells.
All of the flooring is now out. We did not remove the wood under the c-channel -I need more bracing before I feel comfortable with that.
I know how to install standard rivets. However, I still need to research how to install the larger rivets that are visible on the exterior that holds all the bottom rounded pieces.
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Old 09-04-2010, 07:35 AM   #4
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Waterboro , Maine
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Old 09-04-2010, 08:30 AM   #5
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Kaydee I lifted my 31 ft with two bottle jacks. I used 2x6 for bracing and placed the jacks between the floor and the bracing. If you use stronger bracing and place the two jacks on either side of the shell on top of the main frame rails and lift the front a few inches then block it. Move the jacks to the rear and do the same. Go back and forth until you can support the shell high enough off the frame to do the repairs needed. Make sure the frame is blocked to the ground. It must be kept level side to side and front to back so that once shell is reattached everything is perfectly level and straight. From what you have done so far the rest is easy.
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Old 09-04-2010, 08:54 AM   #6
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I would at least sandblast the areas to be welded.
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:35 AM   #7
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1971 29' Ambassador
Waterboro , Maine
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 75
Wasagachris - Has anyone ever video taped this progress? Thank would really help about now. Or, step by step photos.

Air compressor, sandblastic gun and black beauty all ready to go.

Giant tarps ready to lay over and under the entire unit.

Wheel wells need to be removed.

4 of the side outrigger framing bracket thingees need to be removed, purchase and installed....

Hey, Its getting there.
Shuffling and spitting about wether or not to lift it off the frame.
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Old 09-04-2010, 12:02 PM   #8
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Kaydee I'm not sure about video taping but ther are several threads about shell off restoration or "full monte's". I have one.
I love the technical term outrigger framing bracket thingees. LMAO Outriggers is fine.
I have been watching your progress and have every confidence in your ability and determination to do the shell lift.We can go through this together and I'm not that much farther ahead of you. You have less frame damage than I have and will shortly surpass me in your restoration.
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Old 09-04-2010, 06:11 PM   #9
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1964 30' Sovereign
1959 22' Flying Cloud
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Raglan , New Zealand
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Kaydee, without knowing all the details of your situation, I would agree with Wasagachris. I'm on my third restoration and the first was a shell off '64 Sovereign, the second , I started as a shell on '59 Flying Cloud. Believe it or not, the Sovereign was easier than the Flying Cloud with respect to doing the Frame resurrection. Ultimately I ended up doing a frame off for the Flying Cloud.I did the Sovereign /Flying Cloud solo and while not exactly as Wasagachris, essentially it was the same method to the madness. My experience is limited to late 50's early 60's trailers, but I would think there would not be too much in it, with regards to your era trailer. My body thanked me for it, my back was straighter, there was less cursing and my being happier and I stayed cleaner. If at all possible, get the trailer to a comfortable working height and remember, safety first. Once I got over the fact that any trailer 40-50 years old needs a ground up thorough going over, it just became a matter of method. You have come so far with your trailer, I would be reluctant to shortchange yourself, and your trailer by not doing the whole shebang. The sandblasting was easier, all facets are more accessible to paint, and it is possible to do it yourself, if you can work with the laws of physics on your side. As I said, my experience is limited compared to some, but a big lesson I learnt was that these trailers are human-made, consequently, they are not perfect, especially symmetry-wise. The floor outline varies from corner to corner, outriggers (thingies!), are not necessarily level or uniform. You just have to go with the flow really. And, like a lot of design classics, some aspects are not always the most pragmatic. Also, like anything you really love, you have to be able to forgive its shortcomings and quirks. All part of the charm and experience. Personally for me, I found it a false economy by not taking the shell off, but that was just my experience. Best of luck and hang in there, which ever path you choose to take, you are doing a good thing.

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Old 09-04-2010, 07:22 PM   #10
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Itasca , Minnesota
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Gazing at my shell on rehab - I see getting frame away from shell would ease away from making a bunch of compromises...

Being able to level every outrigger and get away from where replacement outriggers may have been dropped or raised 1/4" from floor droop or floor rot, AND correct prior repairs compensation (or not) for the frame-floor insulation crush technique extra 3/16" inch everywhere that may have been overlooked... And getting clearer access to the ones needing to be cut out would be worth it. (Note: one can leave the bent or damaged outriggers on and simply weld in another adjacent to it)

Not going to happen on mine, all solid floor except the back sheet I changed out...
The days are short and the night is long and the stars go tumbling by.. . ~Airstream~
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