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Old 01-07-2007, 10:40 AM   #1
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1970 31' Sovereign
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Frame Repair 1970 31'

Boy it was nice to here from all you nice people. We are about half way done on the floor part of the 1970 31'. I am giong to try my hand at putting some pics in here. I had C clannel made to put inside of the frame so I removed the cross members put it in and rewelded everything. We are putting a new grey water tank at the rear axel and a new black in the cell right behind it. We found the electric leveling jacks in the local paper for sell in the box for next to free an boy were we suprised when we looked at the price on the internet. Por 15 is in the UPS truck as I type this so it looks like I will put the rear floor down next week and then take up the front and see what fun it has in store for the next part of the fun. Thanks again for all stuff I have learned here. The floor has a few bad spots but it may stay that way till I fall in a hole.
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Old 01-07-2007, 10:44 AM   #2
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Nice work! Keep up the fine job you are doing and one day we'll see you at a rally. How's the floor on the Safari? Hope you don't need to do this twice.

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Old 01-07-2007, 04:28 PM   #3
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Frame Repair 1970 31'

With the help of a new friend, Bob, I hope to get the right pic's on here yet.
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Old 01-07-2007, 08:27 PM   #4
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Sweet! Been there, done that...finally starting the coast downhill.

How's the front part of your frame? I had some pretty bad rust and a rotten freshwater tank support (1" plywood) that I had to repair/replace due to ancient plumbing leaks (freeze).

Looks good and at least you'll know what you're riding on.

Hang in there, it's a long road!
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Old 01-07-2007, 08:27 PM   #5
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Great Project

Thanks for posting the pictures.
Please post problems or difficulties that you solved brilliantly.
There are others in the same boat.

R
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Old 01-08-2007, 07:39 AM   #6
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The front part of the frame is in pretty god shape. The only part I have not seen is under the water tank. Still working on the pic deal but like all thinks time has a way of making things work out.
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:27 PM   #7
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Well I got the front plywood up and it looks ok with the standard rust from the pink insulation. The one question I have, has anybody had the one piece of angle iron that goes between the fresh water tank on a 1970 31' have a 3/4 hump in the center of the trailer? It looks like the outriggers are all in line and straight. It is almost like the angle is a bit long. The fram rails measure the same distance apart everywhere. Hope I am not the first.
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Old 01-23-2007, 04:24 PM   #8
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I'd be careful with those eletric levelers you're putting on. I don't think the frame can handle being forced to be level. It's pretty flimsy in design.

The trailers are really setup to have stabelizers with just enough pressure to take the bounce out when you walk around inside. But not to try and level the trailer by lifing the frame from the corners.

You level the trailer by using blocks under the wheels on the low side.

You may end up tweaking your frame.
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Old 01-23-2007, 04:44 PM   #9
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Thanks Tim I got those out of the paper for $80.00 for all 4 so I could not pass up the deal. But I agree with what you are saying about the frame. I will be using them more as stabelizers and not jacks but thanks for the input it all helps. I have the crank downs on my 23'. Just thought it will be fun for price. Dave
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Old 01-23-2007, 04:55 PM   #10
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Cool. Glad you had it in mind!
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Old 01-23-2007, 05:58 PM   #11
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Humping

Quote:
Originally Posted by geezernbabe
The one question I have, has anybody had the one piece of angle iron that goes between the fresh water tank on a 1970 31' have a 3/4 hump in the center of the trailer?
In my 73 Sovereign I have what you might call a hump in the middle of the floor in the galley area. I think it is in the area of the seam between the plywood sections. Could it be the screws or hardware that holds the plywood to the frame has come loose from 34 years of the frame flexing. I don't know what the best solution is. Screw it down or perhaps there is delamination in the plywood and I could drill some holes and inject some epoxy, or both. I haven't gotten to it yet as it does not seem to be getting progressively worse very quickly and I am working on other stuff. If anyone has any advice I would welcome it.
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Old 01-24-2007, 06:29 AM   #12
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Geezer,

Can you post pic of the hump? I'm intrigued...I had the FW tank out and had clear view of the angle from below and didn't notice any hump.
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Old 01-24-2007, 07:40 AM   #13
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Take a belt sander and flaten it out, then a thin layer of 6oz fiberglass cloth with resin.
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Old 01-24-2007, 08:41 AM   #14
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I will post a pic of it later today. It is one of the cross members that is 3/4 low for the plywood joint. If I lay a straight edge over the 3 cross members it hits the angle in the center. got to run and get more parts for the trailer. Time to sandblast.
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Old 01-24-2007, 05:17 PM   #15
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Hi Mr Chop Here are 3 pics if they show up. They seem to on the site,sometimes all I see are little - marks and I have to click them. It might be hard to see from under but is pretty clear from above.
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Old 01-24-2007, 05:26 PM   #16
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did you possible bow that crossmember when you pulled the floor up?? i bowed a couple of the angle iron supports that run between my crossmembers becouse i didnt see that the had a bolt in them when i was removing my floor... tring to hurry
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Old 01-24-2007, 06:29 PM   #17
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Ah it could be I will have to look into that. I can stand on it and it will spring down if I put pressure on it . But my pressure is about 256lb. Thanks
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Old 01-29-2007, 08:28 AM   #18
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Geezer,

I definitely think that's what happened. You need to drop the FW tank and straighten it out. (You probably should drop it anyway because it is likely you'll have a few issues there as well.)

Sliding the 1" plywood out which supports the tank after you remove the front channel (two bolts) is best accomplished with two persons but can be done (as well as reinstalled) with one. If your plywood is rotten, you should replace it.

Make sure all water connections are disconnected before the tank is dropped and tank is emptied (as much as possible, anyway). It will also give you a chance to really clean it out with chlorine bleach (let it sit in the sun for a day or so and it'll look really good).
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Old 01-29-2007, 09:42 AM   #19
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Pizza,
As I type this the tank is in the sun with bleach. It already looks better. I am going to take out the angle and put in a little stronger piece of channel iron in. Now that I could measure everything it looks like the angle is a bit long from the get go. But on the bright side the 1" plywood looks brand new and so does the 1970 penny that was right in the center under the tank.
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Old 01-29-2007, 12:04 PM   #20
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You lucked out on the plywood!
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