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Old 10-04-2009, 04:07 PM   #1
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1965 20' Globetrotter
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Frame question

I started floor removal at rear of my 65 GT today. At the very rear there is only a piece of steel chanel 1" x 2" flat side up. Also a piece of aluminum
that looks like the back of the trunk in the space where i would expect a frame crossmember. Does it look like anything is missing besides other trunk parts?
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Old 10-07-2009, 07:24 PM   #2
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Looks like my '64 did. Did you have a waste tank in a metal "pan" just forward of the aluminum partition? Also the welds that connect the 1" flat strap to the frame rail sometimes are cracked.
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Old 10-07-2009, 07:36 PM   #3
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Well it is how it was built, nothing out of place, but I would not leave it this way! You are "very right" in your question! I would weld in a new piece as you describe! The bumper is the cross member, but what if you are hit or back into something? I would weld in a new cross member! Besides it looks like you need a little TLC (welding) in other area too. So, just add what you want!

Best of LUCK!!!
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Old 10-07-2009, 08:57 PM   #4
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I too would add something back there, both between the frame rails and another plate outside the frame rails to allow for another set of rear bolts. When you bolt the rear wall down after the plywood is in, we took advice from a few forums members and ran a piece of aluminum stock (1/8 x 1.25) down inside the C channel to provide a nonstop washer with a lot more structural integrity than the sheet metal channel.
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Old 10-08-2009, 06:01 PM   #5
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Thanks for the feedback. The black tank was above floor,Only drains for sinks and shower in this area. I would like to add a grey tank in the bay in front of this , maybe adding a new cross section back and supports for tank while mending some rust out. The worst damage on the frame is at the elevator bolts. Using some sealant at install might prevent that in future.
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Old 10-08-2009, 07:36 PM   #6
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If your X members are only thin or badly pitted at the elv bolt holes you can clean and prime them and use a length of mild steel flat stock, aprox 3/16 x 1 1/4" full lenght of the X member. Tack it under the top lip and bore through the original holes. If there really weak folks here can tell you where to get replacement X members and outriggers.
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Old 10-09-2009, 12:10 AM   #7
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I had the same problem with the elevator bolt holes. The metal was pitted and weaker around some of the holes. I used fender washers on the bottom of the elevator bolts, then a lock washer, and finally a ny-lock locking nut. The frame didn't need any welding at all, so I guess I was lucky.
Nice find!
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